Turbo headers

T86951 · 08-12-2001, 09:56 AM

My 951 headers are cracked and leaking. B&B makes a stainless steal set for a grand.($995). Does anyone know of a replacement header for a reasonable price? I am scared to death to pull my studs to take them off though, afaid one will break though.

Lawrence Coppari · 08-12-2001, 10:21 AM

Try Partsheaven.

Studs generally come out by double nutting. If that fails, use red Loctite on the double nuts, then two wrenches to cancel bending moment.

Vice grips along with a single wrench is good too. You ought to replace your studs when you change manifold. Also chase the threads with a tap. I had the one closest to the firewall snap off while driving. I got it out but it was not fun. All studs were then replaced.

jseel · 08-12-2001, 09:25 PM

you have to pull the studs? im doing this job on tuesday(remove and weld cracked header) i thought you may have to remove crossover pipe.

Lawrence Coppari · 08-13-2001, 04:26 AM

Yes, on my 951 the studs have to come off in order to get headers off. Two and 3 come out first, then 1,4. You do not have to remove crossover or raise the engine. You'll have to remove fuel rail and lines and injectors and carefully move away. If you turn 1,4 just right, it will slip between valve cover and shock tower. Also remove heater line. I should have taken pictures of the position of the 1,4 header to get it out.

Dave951M · 08-13-2001, 08:06 PM

Lawrence-
The second time I did mine, I just depressurized the fuel system and unhooked the lines at the fender opening and removed the heater pipe. Header 1/4 come out by rotating it in place so that the collector end came out first and then by moving it over the engine, it came right out. Mucho easier than the first time. My 951 is an 86 model with no cruise control, it might be different for other years or with cruise. After seeing the price for aftermarket headers, I figured I could do an awful lot of welding. Since the heat sheilds have to be removed, I went back with the DEI wrap. I'm not a big fan of header wrap, but this stuff seems to be pretty good, got it from Summit Racing.

jseel- No, the crossover doesn't have to come out. Yes, the studs do have to come out. Rather than putting the old ones back, I would recommend that you get new ones from the dealer. They're not bad, about $1.25 ea, the nuts however are over $4 each, guess what got recycled. If you decide to use header wrap to replace the heat shields, install the wrap before you put the headers back in. Much easier that way. I would also recommend changing the collector bolts since they will probably be pretty bad.

Dave951M

[This message has been edited by Dave951M (edited 08-13-2001).]

jseel · 08-13-2001, 10:07 PM

thanks! ill know how it goes tomorrow. i didnt think of the header wrap-better get that,studs and collector hardware in the morning.thanks again-saves me a lot of down time.

T86951 · 08-13-2001, 10:18 PM

jseel, let us know how it goes , I said before the worst thing I dread is possibly breaking a stud. Others on here have done this and nobody to my knowledge has broken one taken them out. I am going to do this at some point but keep putting it off.

jseel · 08-14-2001, 10:19 PM

the header is off! it couldnt have gone smoother. every bolt and nut came right off-only had to remove three studs. they are getting welded in the morning. i unhooked the motor mount and jacked up the motor but that doesnt help.the pipe towards the front was broken off the flange completely. i havent found any other obvious leaks but it is getting welded around the inside and out-the factory just does the inside. im doing a cambox seal at the same time-you have to take off a lot off stuff compared to my na! well worth it. ill let you know how the story ends hopefully tomorrow!!

jseel · 08-14-2001, 10:22 PM

ps- if you are going to remove the studs use vicegrips and buy new studs. double nut only if you want to save the stud, it can take a while longer

T86951 · 08-15-2001, 08:57 AM

you only had to remove 3 studs? thought you had to take them all out. Which 3 did you have to take out?

jseel · 08-16-2001, 10:18 PM

still working ...and waiting for parts...ill tell ya which studs,i have to check again. i have to have it done by tomorrow.

jseel · 08-19-2001, 09:12 AM

i removed the inside studs of cylinders 1 and 4 and the inside #3 came out by accident because it was rusted to the nut. the local vw dealer has the lock nuts and studs fairly cheap.everything went back together nicely started it and its still leaking!!! motherf@#$$$!!!!!!!!!. not only that but i did a cambox gasket which worked out till doing injector seals. the orange caps that plug into the intake were cracked and broken, the bosch rebuild kit doesn't include them, and they arent available from the dealer. im going to call bosch in the morning. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ALL 951 OWNERS-we need this part available. any help comments anything appreciated!

T86951 · 08-19-2001, 10:08 AM

So the header on 2 and 3 will come off without pulling the studs?

On 1 and 4 how does that work? pull the inside ones and angle it out on one end and then angle it out on the other and off.

That will be better than pulling the all. They all came out easy huh?

On the welding try TIG welding. I have heard that is a lot better than regular welding.

[This message has been edited by T86951 (edited 08-19-2001).]

jseel · 08-19-2001, 12:24 PM

2 and 3 have to come out first, then 1 and 4 can be wiggled out. it can only happen one way i think. it takes a couple minutes to figure out. if you look at the flanges the 1 and 2 outsides are slotted, the rest are holes. thats why you dont have to take all the studs out. make sure you get the updated exaust gaskets, ill post a part number later

T86951 · 08-19-2001, 03:59 PM

But you say the 2 and 3 header will come out without pulling any of its studs?

jseel · 08-19-2001, 11:12 PM

the flange with the cutout on the 2/3 header may need the one stud removed, im not really sure. mine came out because it was rusted to the nut, im sure it would make it easier. i put the stud back in after the header went back on. one of my pipes was completely broken away from the flange,another cracked badly. we didnt remove the heat shield because it looked obvious where the leak was coming from(big mistake).now it has to come off again to find the other leak. i hope it stays together after all this!