Glad you didn't lose the leg profssr2017,
I was working when this happened, and my doctor has "strongly recomended a new career, how does one go about reinventing themselves? I'm getting back to health again after being pretty much immobile for several months, burning the pounds off is amazingly refreshing. So, I've decided to ressurect an old mountain bike career, well, mountain biking without it being a career. BUt decidiing which direction to go in for a career change is tough, I change my mind everyday.

Well, so far, so good. The circulation may be a problem later, but the doc said if it lasted 5 years (which it now has), then I should be good for a while, but maybe when I'm 70 it'll become a problem again. Then I'll have to consider going to an automatic - maybe something with a paddle-shift. At least now I can walk easily, but I'll never even consider running. (That's one reason I'm always so nice to you guys, ain't no way in h*ll that I could ever out run any of you! (Heck - I couldn't even out run TODWICK!!! (ROFL)))

I appologize to Todwik.SmileWavy

i have metrics and a spring compressor (which i was using) and i scribed the cam bolt. when i use the torch, do i try to centralize the heat on the bolt or the part on the outside of it?

i'll ask again, is PB Blast better than WD-40 at rust bustin'?

also, does the torch idea really work that well? i used a heat gun (1200w) on the back, but a torch is prolly a little hotter.

one more thing, does pelican have the rear shock bolts? front shock bolts? i think i want to replace these old rusty ones. if pelican doesn't, do you know who else might?

Most of the folks heres swear by the PB Blaster stuff, so much so I bought a can of it but havn't used it yet. When I was doing A/C repair I used Liquid wrench and it works better than WD40 at cutting through rust. the important thing is to let it soak in for a while. I would drench the rusty bolts then take a lunch break then drench it again before attacking it.

I would think anyplace that sells metric bolts you could get replacements, just be sure they are the same grade.

O agree with Scott,
Bolts quality is extremely important.MOst bolts after market are either
1.) poop, useless
2.) heat treated cro-moly or titanium or vanadium sometimes anodized or zinc coated (to inhibit corrosion) if they're not heat treated don't buy them. The dealer should have the best you can buy for the application. Sometimes bolts have specific heat treating values for rigidity because you want the bolt to break before something else if a situation occurs where it's either the bolt or a more vital component that has to (fail) suffer. If the bolt is coated install i t as is, but it never hurts to coat the head of the bolt to prevent future corrosion and either use a heavy bearing grease or the appropriate loc-tite for the specific application. Just be careful that the grease you use doesn't effect anything that it may come into cantact with besides the intended area of application, like rubber or braided hoses, or anything potentially critical. also while you're under the front end check the slave cylynder to make sure it's not leaking (totally unrelated to your post but a good check yearly) the brake/clutch fluid will eat through just about anything on your car. a solid power washing or scrubbing with simple green to the under carriage of your car is healthy for it and will expose any other potential problem areas.
I fall down alot,
Frank B

I bought a can of PB Blast to help with an E brake adjustment on a Ford. I used WD-40 but it didn't work. The can itself has a test on the front of it that you can try to show you it's power. The test would have you use a styrofoam cup and fill it a bit with PB Blast and watch the fun. The cup I guess breaks down into a steaming pile of goo. I will keep you posted on how well it does on a Ford. Hopefully it will turn the Ford into a steming pile of goo.

As for the torch the theory behind it is as you heat something up the molecules get excited and move around rapidly. As a result the it expands. So if you heat a nut up and it expands it will be easier to remove. It does work! It has saved my ass more than once. You can go to the hardware store and purchase such a torch for under 20 bux.

On another note. Heat and solevants like WD-40 do not go well. Just remember that most of those types of solevants are flamable. Also people have been decapited by using a cheap spring compressor or using one improperly. Please be careful.

I was involed in a car crash back in February 1998. The impact casued the motor to move back into the passanger compartment. I had my legs on the clutch and the brake when that happened. It caused my knees to get stuck under the steering wheel and as the motor came in my legs didn't have any place to go so mt tibia and fibia broke in both legs. One leg was a compound fracture (bone came out). Both legs have rods and pins. I dont have pictures of the xray, but I do have pics of the car. I can post if so desire.

Man just bust out the AIR TOOLS, Cant life without them. Get the 1/2 impact gun, set it at high, put some PB blast on the stuck bolt (YES ITS BETTER THEN WD40) and go nuts. If not then heat them up

I learned from Mike at Pelican Parts, when I ordered the new speed and reference sensors, of a product called Sili Kroil. He said it was vastly superior to PB Blaster, and you could see the rust dissolve.

www.Eastwood.com sells it in a 16 ounce aerosol can ($13) or in one gallon ($35). I have bought some, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

Maybe this will help.

i'm going to try PB Blast and see how that works, but the thing is, how does it (PB or WD-40) get in there if there isn't a big enough gap to spray it in, does it really penetrate like that?

isn't a socket with a breaker bar just as good as an air tool?

also, i want to get the right bolt porsche supplies for the shocks, because i had to buy a couple bolts for the rear right, it seems to fit like a glove, but it's not thick enough, and i can hear my shock bouncing/shaking/rattling on the bolt back there.

on a side not, how can i find out if my springs are still good? torsion bars?

i appreciate everyones input.



Thank you:

profssr2017
fast924S
Sabyre
Frank B
scottmandue

as far as i know the best way to tell if your springs are crap is how the car sits. if they are tired ride height will be lower than its supposed to be.
air tools can provide a lot of torque. if you have a 3 foot breaker bar like you mentioned you should be able to provide as much torque as an air tool. BUT i think the main reason an impact wrench works is becuase the impulse is smaller. it concentrates all that force into kind of a blast. its like hammering a nail into a board as opposed to pushing the nail.

how much are air tools, typically?
and a tank air compressor?

I think you are having a great experiance with the shocks!

a great LEARNING experience... that's about the only benefit of this hell.

i don't know/understand what that test proves, i could fill the cup with gasoline and it would do the same thing, but that doesn't mean gas is good for eating rust...

Learning is a great experiance. You may not like the stress of problem solving.

If you want to "melt" rust get a bottle of ZAP at the hardware store.

it's not the stress that bothers me, it's the "i want to drive my god damn car with my new shocks!"

SoCal, so would you recommend ZAP over PB? PB is good for rust, or just melting cups? you know anything about that Sili Kroil?

I was refering to attacking the rust. This is the stuff you see on TV adds taking the rust off of just about everything. Pretty nasty stuff though. Diluted muratic and sulfuric acid.

Melts skin too.

I would just go for the PB blast.. Put some on, let it soak a few hours, then hit it again.. The stuff does wonders, and melts cups, then again my coffee can melt cups too, so not sure how much good that is :D