16 Valvers: Hall Sensor question(s)
 

So I'm inspecting the engine bay after a long road trip last weekend, and the plug fitting to my Hall Sensor is starting to (literally) crumble and fall apart. Its still connected and there's no change in any idle behavior or the such, but exactly where does the plug wire come from? Its coming from somewhere under the cam gear, but are these things easy to replace? any idea for the cost of this plug?

Any part number would be appreciated; I called my local dealer and he had no idea what I was talking about:confused:

Thanks!

The wire comes out of the harness that goes between the back timing belt cover, and the front of the water pump. Sometimes the wire gets caught between the valve cover and the distributor cap housing (the black painted timing gear cover) I believe the oil pressure sensor leads also connect to the same portion of the harness.

Find the water temperature sensor, under the water outlet. (the thing with the coolant bleed screw in it). the connector that hooks to the water temperature sensor connects to this part of the harness as well.

The plug gets brittle with the age of the car and exposure to engine heat. As long as the wire connectors dont touch each other, it should be fine. If you can secure the socket so they won't come off the metal bracket it will be better.

The part number for the distributor hall sensor is 94460617001. OEM distributor charges about $150 and dealers about $190. Check with OEM Porsche parts. I am not sure if Pelican sells one.

Thanks for your imput, guys.


$150 for a small plug - gotta love it. I'm starting to keep a running tab of S-S2 only parts that are wildly expensive. Among them, its own exhaust (it looks almost identical to the 8v n/a but is different, cams, tensioners, ect. Ouch.

What exactly is a Hall sensor? It that the plug that sits on a small metal bracket on back of the distributor housing?
I think that I might have messed the plug up trying to disconnect it during my recent water pump/ belt job.
There were three wires in the plug.The red connector broke loose from the connection so I soldered it back and the car seems to be running OK. It won't fit in the bracket anymore because the plastic just fell apart so I fastened what's left of it to the metal bracket with a nylon tie.

I was thinking of eliminating the plastic connection completely by just cutting and soldering the wires together. Good or bad idea?

That is not a bad idea. You can save your $150 and spend it on something else. Don't forget to shrink tube the solder joints.

What functions of the engine do those wires control ?
The previous shop that did the last water pump / belt job on my car 4 years ago did a pretty shoddy job. The Oil pressure sending wires were routed in FRONT of the timing belt cover and only 1 wire is connected. My oil pressure gage is always reading 5 when I start it up. There is also a problem with the connector on the oil pressure sending switch.

Great suggestion, Peter. I'm gonna just get a .15 cent nylon tie and tighten the pieces of that crumbling plug together. Its so bad right now that you could flick it off the metal bracket with your pinkie finger.

I believe those wires are used to figuring out which cylinder is "predetonating" (knocking). Regardless, I don't think the other wires you described should be where they're currently at. Doesn't sound like your previous wrench was 100% familiar with these cars.

Pretty car on your site, by the way.SmileWavy

man I ran those plates, and you've been a bad boy!!!

P



(nice car BTW)

It was the PO's mechanic that did the job 4 years ago according to the receipts that he gave me. I decided to do the job myself and get it right. :D
While doing the water pump job and looking around under the car I noticed some hanging wires that do not appear to be affecting performance but I want to get the oil pressure gage working correctly and tie up all the loose ends.

FR Wilk, with the Hall Sensor connected, would you know what's the maximum (factory) retard possible?

thanks for that and as long as you are looking things up, is 6º the maximum for the turbo's too?

I eliminated my crumbling Hall sensor plug today by just soldering the wires together and eliminating the plug.
The Hall sensor wires are NOT color coded to the harness wires. I had to spend some time digging out the resin in the plug figuring out the connections.

On the Hall sensor plug there are three wires:
1-Red
2-Green
3-Black

The harness wires are colored:

Light Tan - goes to the Red on Hall sensor
Brown - goes to the Green on Hall sensor
Shield wire - Goes to the Black on Hall sensor

It worked fine for me. In fact it feels a lot smoother. I changed my Mobile One oil & filter also ....she's purring like a kitten. :D :D

Well it looks like its time to resurrect this thread, as my Hall sensor finally gave up the ghost nearly seven years later. Was tinkering and the hall plug simply fell apart. Now I'm trying to put it back together but need to I need to confirm the correct order of the pins. So it looks like (looking from left to right) the colored pins should go red-green-black. Can someone confirm this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312250048.jpg

Come on - nobody???

Fair enough. So now I have another question. I recently developed a backfire while on heavy throttle at higher RPMs. Changed the plugs out and it ran a little better, but do you think it could be related to the crumbled Hall sensor?

bump

Mine just went. How are you guys fixing this? Can I get a photo?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370994193.jpg

Either buy a new one or get a reference sensor connector kit and rewire it.

I just bought a new one cause mine looked crappy.

I just soldered and shrink wrapped mine.
Will get the wire color diagram i made up and report back.

tks gary