944 S2 Shifter Failure

[john_d_golden]

Took off for golf in my S2 5 speed manual. Shifted into 1st, 2nd, and third, but lost everything as I went into fourth. The shifter went completely limp in my hand. I got it back into some gear to head home, but the shifter is a wet noodle. The clutch engages, but the shifter doesn't work at all. The "pattern" seems to be gone. I checked underneath to see if the selector rod was working. It moves about when you giggle the shifter.

I suspect a disconnect or broken pin or bushing somewhere. Any ideas on an easy diagnosis and fix??

Thanks,

JdG

[JRMock]

Check the linkage connection at the top left side of the transaxle. The long bar from the gear shift lever connects to the linkage at the transaxle. Pull back the rubber boot, to access a 10 or 12mm bolt, many are safety wired.

Excellant write-up at Clarks Garage...look under transaxle.

http://www.clarks-garage.com

Good Luck
JM

[john_d_golden]

Thanks,
I checked out the write-up on Clark's Garage. I've used them before to get tips. I'll check to see if the shift lever pin has failed, worn, or come loose, or if the shift ball has come loose from the bearing. I suspect something has failed or come loose based on the sudden catastrophic failure. There was never any sloppiness or play, it just went out. Either would give the super loose feel, but still show some movement/giggling on the rod at the rear end.

Thanks again. I'll follow up.

JdG

[SoCal Driver]

It's the linkage at the transmission. Coupling, arms, piviot bolts. It's on the drivers side.

[bryanthompson]

yep, little 10mm bolts that hold the linkage. Easy enough to get to with one side raised up. I needed an assistant to get the position of neutral whilst I tightened them down.

[john_d_golden]

Thanks, Gents.

As you said, the 3/4 inch long 12mm bolt that goes through the shifter arm coming out of the transaxle (behind axle, on top, to left side) had fallen out, so the shifter rod ball joint at the end of the shifter rod had separated from the shifter arm. This explains the immediate catastophic failer of the shifter and lose of shift pattern.

I first checked the front shifter arm mechanism in the cabin by pulling off the shifter boot. It was fine, so I went under by lifting up the left side on jackstands. Its best to lay down coming in from the rear/left of the car. Its a little tough to see, but the transaxle linkage is tucked up on top of the transaxle. You'll be able to feel the rod and it should move around freely without the bolt. You can see it a little by putting you head close, but a flashlight and mirror will do better. Install the bold by feel and tighten with a socket wrench. It helps to have someone in the car working the shifter to hold it in neutral position while you connect the ball joint. The ball joint should centered in neutral while you connect it to make sure you get full range of motion. Make sure when you tighten the screw, that the ball joint doesn't start to spin off center.

My car didn't have a rubber boot over the linage so the screw was gone. Make sure the replacement screw is long enough to go through the shifter arm and thred into the ball joint, but short enough so that it tighens the two pieces together. I used a 3/4". The two parts should fit together tightly when tightened down. If the bolt is too long it won't pull the parts together and the linkage will be sloppy.

Total fix, took about 15 minutes once I found the correct bolt size/length.

My shifter is tight as new! Thanks again for the advice. It saved the money for the tow and mechanic as well as my time. Oh, yeh and my wife now thinks I'm some kind of cevant. Take care.
JdG