I got questions, who's got answers?
 

Ok,

First question.

Do the fuel injectors need those caps on them? Why?

Next, can a bad O2 Sensor cause a hunting idle?

I Unpluged the TPS in my car and hunting Idle stopped... unpluged O2 Sensor and same thing... no hunting idle.
I unpluged the IAC but hunting idle stayed.

The Hunting Idle ONLY happens when warming up.
The car can be hotter then hell, shut it off, wait a minute, then restart the car and it will idle fine for about 9 seconds and then hunt again.

I adjusted the Idles many times and it did not help.

I've replaced the TPS, IAC, DME Temp Sensor, Intake gaskets, Vacume lines, Resealed the Throttle Body with the reseal kit. TPS clicks when it just starts to come off idle. No vacuum leaks AT ALL.

HELP! (SoCal???) ANYONE?!

oh, I also adjust the AFM according to Clarks Garage. But still same problem.

I have a very slight hunting at idle also. Tach moves slightly, MPG gauge moves enough to be annoying. It started after I resealed the throttle body, but I did the top of engine service at the same time (all gaskets, o-rings, hoses etc in the intake tract). I am not sure what the throttle plate to throat clearance is supposed to be in order to adjust the throttle plate stop screw, but I'm sure it has something to do with the hunting. I have not been able to find this data anywhere. Not even the instructions for the reseal kit.

To answer your first question, a quote from Witch Hunter fuel injector service provider:

"The pintle cap is the plastic piece on the bottom of the injector. It protects the "business end" of the injector, holds the o-ring, and insulates the tip. Be careful not to damage them since they become brittle with age."

Hope that helps?!

ok. I tested my O2 Sensor...

Following instructions from clarks garage I am convinced my O2 Senso is faulty.

It read a conatant .489 Volts no matter what I did. I caused it to run rich and then I did lean and it didn't change. It fluctuated slightly to .492 but that was it.

Any comments from the peanut gallery?

Disregard my last response...

I retested the O2 Sensor, this time the CORRECT side of the plug...

It's still bad... It was not withing specs. When running rich it did not break .8Volts and when lean it did not go below .234 volts.

This is reving the engine at 2500RPM while creating rich and lean conditions.

$145.00....:(

I had an o2 that causes a slight hunting idle years ago. Unplug the o2 until you find a replacement if it bothers you.

You can buy the generic bosch sensor for 50-60 bucks at any autoparts store. Search here for the part number.

Done and done. I unplugged it and it idles great. Hesitation to accelerate but thats to be expected.

I am ordering the right replacement... 3-wire, heated and has the connector so no splicing wires.

$35 for the ford generic three wire. works like a champ.

$35 Ford Generic three wire O2 Sensor.........

Going once...

Going twice...

SOLD!

Be aware, I've read somewhere that you are not supposed to use solder when splicing O2 sensor wires. Insted use the crimp connectors. :confused: Anyone else heard this?

yeah, i've heard it. not sure i believe it. i didn't solder them on mine, however, due to the rumor. i used crimp connectors.

The after market O2 sensor I bought had a crimp and a piece of shrink tubing to cover the crimp.

I think it (wherever I read it. Don't remember where) said it's because the wires need to be able to pass air along the length of the wire so it can reach the sensor, so the sensor can operate properly. :confused: Who knows...

Wires are for electricity not air. A possible problem you could have with soldering is to have heat from the soldering get to the sensor - but you'd have to be soldering within a couple inches of the sensor.

There are air vents at the top of the sensor housing. This have to remain clear for the sensor to work.

ahh.... so soldering the wires 12 inches up shouldn't be a problem?

The no solder idea is based I believe on the fact that the solder will melt and if there is no mechanical process holding the wires together ie. crimping, that the connection will fail when the solder melts and the wires fall away from the connection. I might be wrong though, it happens sometimes. lol.

ah... the solder might melt from the heat of the exhaust. that would be annoying.

Definitely do not solder the wires when splicing in the O2 sensor. I just put some universals from SPG in the wife's Camry, and the instructions from SPG said to crimp only to allow for air passage. Also, FRWilk said the same thing on his old website....see attached:
(credit to FRWilk)
A Lambda sensor, also known as an Oxygen sensor or O2 sensor, will only last for about 60,000 miles (heated sensor). 30,000 for the non heated sensors. Mileage will be much less than that if it becomes contaminated. The O2 sensor is easily contaminated by Silicone (RTV) and many other chemicals. Only use "silicone free" gasoline additives and anti-seize compounds.

Using a "Universal Replacement" Lambda Sensors
The cost of a new Porsche 3-wire O2 sensor can cost over $200. For about $40, a generic 3-wire BOSCH sensor can be used ($25 for a 1-wire). By reusing the original Porsche connector(s) and wire harness, the new O2 sensor is spliced to the old wire harness. Use 3 crimp-on wire splices and heat shrink tubing is recommended. Never solder joints!
There has been no BOSCH "Universal Replacement" Lambda sensor for heated sensors. The 13913 is sold in high volume and is used as the universal replacement sensor. It is the lowest priced sensor of the type. I prefer the 13953 which costs more but has a longer wire harness.
BOSCH has introduced a new universal replacement sensor 15725 and is hard to find but can be found at "Paragon". It is about $70. This is a universal replacement for the for the Ford numbers 13913 and 13953. Kit includes 3 Posi-LockÒ air tight connectors. This is not a universal replacement for the original Porsche sensor.
Do Not Solder Wires!
Use wire crimps or Posi-LockÒ. All the latest BOSCH O2 sensors are air tight. But the O2 sensor must have a clean air supply to work. It breaths down the center of the multi-stranded wire(s). Solder and solder flux will close the air-gaps between the strands of wire and the O2 sensor may malfunction.

If FRWilk said it, it must be so...........