How to drain the oil from the block?

jkrustchinsky · 09-16-2007, 05:20 PM

I want to know how to drain oil from my engine block, i pulled the head off, and there is coolant and milkshake in my engine block but wasnt in my oil when i drained it.

how do i flush the oil from the block. thanks josh

nynor · 09-16-2007, 05:28 PM

open the oil drain, see what comes out. i don't see any harm in pouring some acetone into the oil passages at that point, with the oil drain open. you may need to do a good flush of the coolant system once you get it back together. i wouldn't worry overly much about it, however.

flash968 · 09-16-2007, 05:28 PM

disconnect any knock sensors - run the car up to at least 9k rpm for 10 minutes - that should do it

seriously - if you have water in your oil, at a bare minimum, you need to drop the pan , and remove and clean the oil pump - you will also need to flush the oiling system - you cannot merely drain the block - you will need to get in there and really clean it out - failure to do this could very likely result in a spun bearing, as the remaining water will displace the oil, leaving no lubrication

after putting it back together, add an engine flush additive to an oil no thicker than 10-30 (run-rite is the best) - then, run it for about an hour at relatively low rpms - then, change the oil again using your normal oil - after 1000 miles, change it again - then you should be fine

nynor · 09-16-2007, 05:47 PM

^well, if you truly have water in the oil, oil in the water, this is the way to go.

jkrustchinsky · 09-16-2007, 06:45 PM

with the head off, i am looking at the pistons, around the pistons is vacant space that wraps around the piston rings where some kind of fluid goes, exactly what fluid belongs in there, coolant or oil, that is where the mix is, there is no water in my oil from the pan that i can clearly notice.

i suspect the mix happened when my oil cooler seals went bad, i replaced them but there might just be a mix left where that is.

flash968 · 09-16-2007, 09:40 PM

heck - if you have the head off, you're half way to a rebuild - since you have to clean everything out anyway, i'd at least put in new rings and bearings, and do the valves while the head is off

nynor · 09-17-2007, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkrustchinsky

with the head off, i am looking at the pistons, around the pistons is vacant space that wraps around the piston rings where some kind of fluid goes, exactly what fluid belongs in there, coolant or oil, that is where the mix is, there is no water in my oil from the pan that i can clearly notice.

i suspect the mix happened when my oil cooler seals went bad, i replaced them but there might just be a mix left where that is.

coolant.

earlr85944 · 09-17-2007, 09:26 AM

drain the coolant and refill when the job is done, also do an oil and filter change and repeat after a few hours of runing to make sure both systems are clean.

#391 · 09-17-2007, 12:57 PM

Take a shop vac and duct tape a small length (6-8" or so) of plastic tubing to the end of the hose. Use it to suck out all that milkshake from the cooling jacket. Works good to suck the oil out of the head stud holes too, and any little bitlets of crap that may have fallen into the cylinders.

nynor · 09-17-2007, 01:38 PM

on the last cylinder head i helped with, we used a nasogastric tube and a large syringe to suck it out. worked like a charm.

968rz · 968rz's Garage

Open a beer, hold it upside down for ten minutes while standing on one foot singing Yanky Doodle.

J/K - I would go the route Flash968 suggested that way you know with out a doubt that all the water is gone (water is very bad for rod bearings)

jkrustchinsky · 09-17-2007, 03:20 PM

im about to send the head off to have it machined, im trying to keep everything around 1600 in parts. and i have alot of other things to purchase.

im considering rod bearings but i dont know how much more it would be to replace those, and what all is required to do it. plus i dont know how to get to the rods? through the oil pan? and would i have to removed the rod to replace them? josh

nynor · 09-17-2007, 03:22 PM

what all are you replacing that is costing $1600?

jkrustchinsky · 09-17-2007, 03:31 PM

All tune up parts, Coil, Alternator, Timing belt, waterpump, machine work on head, a bent valve, all new gaskets, front strut inserts, all new hoses, battery cables made to match OEM Porsche, Injector harness from Lindsey, Reference Harness from Lindsey.

and i really need a instrument cluster, it will be a tight squeeze

jkrustchinsky · 09-17-2007, 03:32 PM

plus i will need to buy timingbelt tools.

nynor · 09-17-2007, 03:33 PM

wow. ok, you have some work ahead of you.

924Sman · 09-17-2007, 05:05 PM

To do the rod bearings unbolt the rear a arm from the X member then support the engine from above, drop the X member and remove pan. Bearings can be changed w/o removal of the rods.... But only if the journels are in spec otherwise the crank needs to come out. Good 6 hrs work or better.

Dal