Replacing My Clutch

[jasonmx5]

As far as your tools being scattered throughout the house, I know the feeling. That's why several times during any long or involved project, I take the time to clean up and put stuff back where it belongs. 10 minutes spent doing this could save you hours of frustration - especially when you kick your 10-13-17 mm sockets, misc. required nuth and bolts, etc., across the floor into every nook and cranny of your work area and can't track them all down - ask me how I know!

[jacketfan89]

AHHHHH...So, I got home at 5 today with my new dremel...and cutting disks...After 14 "heavy duty" metal cutting disks (all of which ended up shattering in my face) I finally got that last exhaust bolt off and the exhaust off the car!!! WOOOO

Also I found my cheese head and allen sockets at Napa. "Lifetime guaruntee" so if they bend, I will be going and getting new ones each time..

So...After the exhaust is off, smooth sailing...I got like 5 more bolts off with ease. (lock bolt on linkage, 2 connecting shifter to torque tube, and ONE out of the clamping sleeve.)

Which leads me to my NEXT dilemma. The other bolt on the clamping sleeve. (the one accessible through the larger of the two holes...is STRIPPED...I mean stripped like it looks like a new "circle" socket. SO...How in the Hell am I supposed to get THAT bolt out? Easy outs?

Anyways...It got dark on me, but While I'm figuring out how to get that bolt out tomorrow I'm going to test my new tools on the CV joint bolts and make sure they can actually remove them. I'm going to feel freaking amazingly accomplished when I get this car running...lmao

Thanks for the help,

matt

[Rasta Monsta]

Originally Posted by jacketfan89

if they bend, I will be going and getting new ones

You sure will!

As for the clamping bolt, I would try to dremel a slot into the head for a big ol' screwdriver. If that doesn't work, you will need a bolt extractor, because the bolt needs to come out COMPLETELY to move the sleeve (in other words, grinding the head off won't accomplish anything).

You'll need a new bolt from PNCA too, better get them ordered ($8 each).

[jacketfan89]

Lol that was wierd. My post from last night didn't post. anyways what is the best type of bolt extractor for that scenario. My napa cheesehead tool worked great on all of the cv bolts!! And it's still in great condition!!! I'm going to go ahead and get all of the other bolts out while I'm waiting on a response so once I get the clamping sleeve bolt out, the transmission will be ready to come out! I'm almost in the clutch housing!!!

[John_AZ]

AH! Glad you went to NAPA for the triple square.

Here is a link to get the bolt out from other users.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=459717&highlight=coupler+bolt
I would try post #6 or 7 first and then Rastas idea and then drill. Applying heat from a small propane torch would help loosen it up.

GL
John_AZ

[jacketfan89]

Alright....Well I've got good news, and bad news! Bad news first... That D@MN bolt is STILL stuck in my clamping sleeve...Good news is I've got a new allen head in the bolt with a ton of metal to metal epoxy that looks like its making an extremely strong bond. (We'll find out around 2:30 or 3:00)...Other good news is that while this is curing I went ahead and loosened all of the bolts that are going to need to come out...so once I can get this clamping sleeve where it needs to be, I can just pull the bolts out and move forward... I was lucky because my speed/reference sensors had 10 mm socket bolts as opposed to the allen head bolts which always kill me.

Weird things is...I got one of the sensors bolts out with an 11 mm socket which doesn't make sense.( I couldn't remember that it was a 10 mm socket from clark's garage...but the 11 still pulled it out...oh well! Anyways I'm going to take schumi suggestion on the other sensor and raise the rear of the motor so I can get to it...

My clutch housing has a little shield on the back side that bolts on with 2 17 mm bolts (one on each side.) I'm assuming that has to come off too...right?

The clutch housing bolts seem really hard to get to. I loosened the bottom right hand bolt (the easiest one to get to) with a little force, but it finally came untightened.

OH...and something else! So I pull the starter off, and with the starter come some little rubber shavings right into my eyeball!! So either the rubber clutch disk BROKE OR something is shaving off pieces of it.

We'll find out in a few! Wish me luck on this freaking coupling bolt!

Thanks guys,

Matt

[wild man]

Originally Posted by Techno Duck

You can easily do the budget clutch job and just change the disc and have the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced.

Resurfaced or not, I would never consider using an old pressure plate when doing a clutch job on one of these cars. These are the only RWD cars that I know of where a clutch job is more of a PITA than FWD cars.

Plus, consider this: A clutch doesn't usually start to slip simply because the disc is wearing thin. It is a combination of that, AND the fact that the PP spring gets progressively weaker from age, usage, and heat.

[John_AZ]

wild man,

I have done it both ways.

1988 924S 60K---Clutch, everything OEM Sachs new and refinished. Fork and shaft reused.

1987 924S 113K---Reused PP & TO. Italian clutch disc ~$200 (I think best of the non OEM). Balanced PP & FW. All minor clutch parts new. Fork and shaft reused.

With experience, the clutch job is an easy job. Dirty and time consuming---alot easier in the SW states that do not have major rust issues.

Most of the cars need a new clutch at about 20 years or 80K to 120K if they have the rubber disc. A Sachs PP & TO can surely go 250K. New RMS and resurface the FW. The TO can be repacked.

Granted, if you see the PP steel fingers with deep TO grooves and the PP and FW and burned and scored, you would have to replace everything and resurface the FW.

From one of my Pelican mentors-SoCal Driver:



GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S