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Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,711
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Valve Removal Tool/ Valve Inspection/Lapping Questions
A buddy lent me his NAPA #3271 "Deluxe Universal Overhead Valve Spring Compressor," and what a bear getting a valve out with this! Problem seems to be that the design of this device, which basically compresses the spring against itself, does not allow it to grab low enough on the outer spring (and so a couple of coils remain extended), plus the inner spring is not grabbed by the tool so it needs brute force to compress. Seems that a tool which could attach to the head and push the springs down together for full compression would work much better - but I'm having a heck of a time finding such a tool at my local NAPA, VIP, Autozone, etc.
At any rate, after an hour or so of sweat and struggle with the NAPA tool, I finally did manage to extract a valve - but I'd sure like to have someone chime in on any tricks they might have used in using the NAPA tool - because at this point I'm not sure if I want to proceed with the remaining seven valves without going to some other tool. As for inspection: the valve and head faces seem basically fine - with no obvious scoring or pitting - and a little carb cleaner reveals a bit of shine on these faces...although they still exhibit some carbonization after this cleaning. The seals look pretty old and I do want to replace these. If I can remove the remaining valves and if they all look about like the first one, my sense is that I won't need to send the head off for refacing... but I'd still be very tempted to at least lap the valves very gently and mildly. I've noticed from this forum and from others that folks have very different opinions about the advisability of lapping these (944) valves. But as my intention would be to do this only minimally and gently, I'm guessing that it might be OK. Any further opinions about this? And has anyone else used the NAPA Universal Overhead Valve Spring Compressor successfully - and if so...any tricks to making this reasonable? Thanks! |
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08-14-2010, 11:35 AM
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Socket on keeper, hammer, bam!
Cave Man style.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock |
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08-14-2010, 02:16 PM
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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You might want to follow the progress of member strath44
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/493726-lapping-valve-seat-grinding.html GL John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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08-14-2010, 09:50 PM
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I used a tool similar to this one:
Looked like this when used on my head: Spring compressor Spring A breeze to use. I did put a socket on the keeper ring and whacked it a few times, like 968 GUY says. Before that they kinda stuck. JM |
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08-15-2010, 03:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 63
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How I did it
I bought a "C" style compressor from Sears $25.00 (Alaska price, cheaper in Lower 48) it worked just fine. just make sure to orient it properly for clearance, you'll see what I mean when you use it. I also lapped the valves using fine grit oil base lapping compound and checked for leakage by reinstalling valves and springs, turning the head over (valve faces up and level) filled area with water and used compressor with blow gun to blast air into intake and exhaust ports and watched for bubbles in the water, made notation of location of leakage and amount of bubbling, if any, re-lapped as needed. This method worked well and the compression is almost equal across all cylinders after installation.
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"In process" '86 944 NA (mine) Wifes Beautiful silver '86 951 (birthday present from me) |
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08-16-2010, 12:15 PM
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