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Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,710
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RMS "Stuck" Removal Hints?
Trying to pry out my RMS - and it seems to be stuck pretty well.
I've just done a forum search on this...but most of the info I've found relates to RMS installation and not removal. At any rate, I'm tempted to drill some small holes in the rms to see if I can weaken and deform it, to make removal possible. Any other tricks I might try? Thanks! |
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Registered
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I've never done a Porsche RMS but on GM and Fords I used to run a screw or two into the seal and pull on that.
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Rick 93 968 (My summer car), 05 Cayenne S (My winter car), 79 924 (Wife's summer car), 02 C230k (Wife's winter car), |
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Burn the fire.
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I found what works best is a very small, blade screwdriver. Pry on the inside part of the seal (not along the case). Or, use a larger version of a dentist's pick and pull it that way. Be especially careful not to score or scrape the crank or the engine case.
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[x] Working | [_] Broken: 2017 Victory Octane [x] Working | [_] Broken: 2005 Ram 1500 SLT w/5.7L Hemi "Drive it like you stole it." |
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Toofah King Bad
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You guys never heard of a seal puller?
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? « "DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc |
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Registered
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Rasta MonstA!!! seal puller +1 ,ok 944 learn how to use the tool mar the case housing, or you will have more leaks, you can patch with silicone, but ultimately do it right. do you have a small slide hammer? you can put some self tapping screws in the seal @ top and bottom and use a puller attatchment to a slide hammer and attack it from the top and bottom. thats the safest , otherwise, the seal puller above works very well and fast
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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I am sure you saw the "screwdriver pry" hole--right lower side of picture in RMS cavity. If you get gorrilla hands and pry out the RMS make sure you buff/file the sharp edges of the hole or you will rip the new RMS on the outside edge. Notice the sharp edges on the right.
![]() Also be aware the seal is inserted to the bottom of the ledge shown with the arrows. AND The seal should end up below the bevel of the block ---circled. Elring RMS seal is best. I have used the Pelican seal and over 2 years no leaks. Clean the crank shaft. Oil the inside of the seal with conventional oil. If you have a fear of leaks---use Curil-T on the outside of the RMS-----I just spray the RMS cavity and outside edge with WD-40. GL John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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In the Fires of Hell.....
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I tried drilling holes/using screws to pull it out - the RMS only laughed at my feeble attempts....
I ended up using a big screwdriver in that slot and a hammer to drive it in far enough to be able to pry that sucker out. ![]() Good luck, Keith
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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Back from Beyond
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,697
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^+1 If the seal puller doesn't work, deform the little bastard...
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'88 944 Auto - project, kinda '87 944 Auto - died saving my wife '84 944 5SP - crushed under shop roof during snow storm All others GONE! |
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