No start, what have I missed? Need help badly.

[iplagolf]

Hello...Well I made it to Monroe Louisiana, that's the good news, the bad, went to start the car this AM popped once then just cranked. Lots of rain here yesterday. Drove through some big puddles, but car ran fine all the way home. Here is what I've done so far. Tach bounces. Pulled the dist. cap and checked for moisture. None. Pulled coil for same. None, ohmed the coil, as it should be. Checked for cont. of the coil wire to dist. cap. Good. Checked for spark. Good spark. Exchanged DME relay with a new one. No start. Three pronged wire jumper. Pump kicks in. Checked for fuel to the rail. Good pressure.
Removed floor in passenger side foot well. No moisture on electronics. Removed J boot between throttle body and air flow box. No water, very, very small amount of oil.
Opened up air filter box. No water. With the J boot off, tried to start and got a backfire.
What I'm going to do. Check for 12V to injectors. Do an air flow sensor check. I have no Internet at my place. Got a ride into town to post this. Will be here for two hours. 4:30 cen. If you have a suggestion and post, if I don't post behind you, I'm back to the sticks. My cell is 812-229-2996. I've got to get this buggy running. Thanks, Fritz

[nynor]

do you have compression? you can test this, sort of, by trying to turn the crankshaft with a socket wrench and a 24mm socket. i would turn the thing over by hand two complete revolutions and make sure there are no free turning spots in the rotation.

[dondarnell]

Check the connections on the speed sensors at the very back of the motor. This get brittle and come apart.

[HondaDustR]

Sounds like either a grounding issue or a crank sensor issue. Try just unplugging and plugging back each crank sensor a few times to break any corrosion, same with the DME connector. Checking the AFM signal back to the DME wouldn't be a bad idea as well. Check engine block grounds on the bellhousing at the rear of the motor. Check that the battery clamps are tight and clean and that the wires are secured well to the clamps.

[iplagolf]

I'm up and running! HUGE thanks to Tim on the west coast. To take your time and help me out took a load off of me. Again, thank you very much. I had 12V to the injectors. Did an ohm/voltage check on all the sensors. Checked the timing, it was ok. I had to wait to get a second set of hands to do the timing check and while I was waiting I pulled as many electrical plugs as I could find and cleaned them with fast drying electronic cleaner. After we found the timing to be correct I tried top start it and it did. I'm glad it started but I still don't know what caused the problem. It had to be moisture related.
Just as a side note. If you are the only one around and you want to check your timing, it is impossible to turn the crank and look for the mark and OT at the same time in the square hole in the bell housing. What you can do is look into the hole on the cam tower face by the dist. cap, looking for the mark on the cog. Turn the cam until you see the mark and then look in the square hole in the bell housing to see if you see the TDC marks. If you don't turn the cam again and wait for the mark to reappear, check again in the square bell housing hole and you should see the mark. Thanks to all, Fritz

[txhokie4life]

BTW, if the Tach bounces -- your CPS sensor is good.

You can also check the crank timing by looking at the notch on the flywheel
matches the opening in the bell housing. Then go look at the cam.

Why is this useful -- well if you are trying to line up the crank
by yourself with out the cam housing on -- you can :-)

Glad to see you are back on the road.

m