I did not get the socket extender pieces. Did I make a mistake in ordering?

A mistake? No, but perhaps an omission. I do not normally include the pins to convert the DME - so if you needed to convert your DME, this is something that I can only help you with if you let me know that you do not have a 28pin DME...

Re: Rogue Tuning NA-Tune: MAF conversion for the 944NA!
 

I'll see if I can make a pictorial today since I have nothing better to do. I need to find a switched 12 volts from somewhere so I can include that in the how to. I don't want to say "just poke around with a meeter. I'm too lazy to do that for you." Josh told me that I can get 12 volts from the diagnostic port. I'll see what I can find.

I am working on getting a detailed step-by-step install directions done....
If you don't have an easy spot for switched +12volts, then you can use the coil. BUT make sure you connect to the correct side (the black wire).

Here is my SNAFU. I removed the socket and soldered the small board in its place. I looked again on the site where I placed my order, there is no place to say what socket you have, I assumed everything needed was included either way.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363366448.jpg


I have a few solder joints that are bridged here, can't remember if they were that way before I removed the socket.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363366522.jpg

Re: Rogue Tuning NA-Tune: MAF conversion for the 944NA!
 

I'm almost done, but I can't find 12 volts at the diagnostic port. Do I have to disassemble that entire area to find a wire? That looks like a PITA to disassemble... I was also told I can also get 12 volts from the horns, but I can't seem to find them :mad:

Whereabouts in here can I find 12 volts?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7a53922b.jpg

Because many are not comfortable soldering old electronics I do not automatically include the hardware to convert the DME. I do offer the conversion service for those who don't want to convert it themselves.

I do specify that a 28pin DME is required for any of my Tunes. Just the same a late (85.5+) DME is required. I can only state the requirements of the kit...
If something is not clear feel free to give me a call or email.

Yes, that looks correct.

Go ahead and just use the coil black-wire. That should be fine. My worry with using the coil is someone connecting to the wrong side, but you already know that ;)

Unfortunately I do :(

I have finished my pictorial. I hope it helps some people. If I forgot any steps or you'd like better pictures just let me know and I'll go back and do those steps/take a better picture.

Alright, fist things first. Take a few shots of tequila or your alcohol of choice
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps5ebebf90.jpg

Once you're done that, disconnect the battery. I have a knob to disconnect mine. If you don't have one of those, then you'll have to loosen the nut and pull the lead off
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps5337b41c.jpg

Next we're going to remove the DME. Pull back the passenger side carped (it's velcroed on there) and you should see something like this
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd804b628.jpg

Unbolt the kick panel, disconnect the DME, and you should see something like this
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4bdfa7f4.jpg

Unbolt the DME and flip it over. Pry up on these tabs with a flat blade screw driver
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps5e341665.jpg

Remove the metal cover and GENTLY push up on the top board at these two posts. Do not push up at the very edges of the board.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc02c7b4e.jpg

Once you have the DME apart, carefully stick a flat blade screwdriver under the chip. Wiggle it around a little, then switch to the other side of the chip. Do not just pry up on one side of the chip. You will bend the pins. Once it's loose, gently lift it out and set it aside. I'd recommend putting it in the static free box your new chip comes in.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc5905d37.jpg

After your chip is out, insert the new one as shown:
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps8f07c4f1.jpg

After you're done that, reconnect the DME and reinstall the kick panel (sorry, no pics)

The next step is to remove the top of the airbox. Remove the screws holding the lid on and the clamp that holds the belt vent tube to the airbox
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps80d28b29.jpg


Once you've removed the top cover, loosen this screw and remove the clamp attaching the J-boot to the AFM. There is no J-boot in this picture because mine seems to have gone on vacation :mad:
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps54ca1dac.jpg

Disconnect the connector for the AFM and remove the four screws holding in the AFM. The one on the bottom left is a real pain in the ass to remove/install. If you take your time you'll get it out
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps646bd35b.jpg

Look at that difference in air restriction!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc45109d8.jpg

Throw your AFM in the garbage
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc8b84a75.jpg
Just kidding

Hold the MAF housing in place and start all four bolts. I'd recommend screwing them in about half way
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pscbf5ba4a.jpg

The one on the bottom left takes some ingenuity to get tightened down
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps45b391cd.jpg

Now it's time to go inside and do some soldering! Get out your soldering iron, some solder, a ring connector thing, some heat shrink, and a heat gun
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psb0b7a88f.jpg

Slide on your heat shrink, stick the the wire in the end of the connector, and squeeze the end of the connector together with some pliers.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0724baba.jpg

Make sure your soldering iron is 100% heated up and place it on the wire. Touch the piece of solder on there until it covers the entire end of the wire and flows down inside the part of the connector you squished. Watch out, the connector gets very hot and can burn you! I needed something to hold the connector down while I soldered it, so I used a can of brake fluid from my VW.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9f9bc31e.jpg

Slide the heat shrink over the connector and use your heat gun to shrink it. Make sure it is 100% shrunk so no dirt, water, etc can get in there.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4db71d06.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps6c495e22.jpg

Go back to your car and pry apart the cover for the coil with a flat blade screw driver. This thing is a ***** to remove with the headlight motor in place, so I usually unbolt it and turn the motor forward.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps6c4c7343.jpg

Once the cover is off, you should see this. Here are the black and green wires Josh is talking about. DO NOT USE THE GREEN WIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psafdb7b76.jpg

Loosen this nut on the coil. It is 10mm
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps822883db.jpg

Tighten the nut down
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psebb43727.jpg

Go to the MAF housing and connect the harness to the MAF sensor and the AFM connector
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps6ed575f8.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps5a667a55.jpg

Reconnect the J-boot (make sure none of the vacuum lines attached to the bottom came loose), put the airbox together (make sure you have everything out of there first!), put the cover on the coil, reconnect the battery and start 'er up!

Chunkerz - very helpful, whatever you're running for you got my vote! Thanks man!

+1 very good steps by steps DIY writing.Thanks Chunkerzhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Re: Rogue Tuning NA-Tune: MAF conversion for the 944NA!
 

Glad you guys like it! I need to retake a few of those pictures. Stupid 5 megapixel camera making my pictures all crappy....

Wow very nicely done. I laughed out loud when I saw you throw the AFM away

please say you didn't throw the AFM away!!!

He said JK

Re: Rogue Tuning NA-Tune: MAF conversion for the 944NA!
 

My AFM doesn't work anymore. The wiper arm is all funked so it's pretty much just a paper weight now. If anyone wants it they can have it for the cost of shipping.

u shoulda went office space on AFM hehe.
AND HE THREW IT ON THE GROUND!

Wait. I'm NOT supposed to throw it on the ground :confused: That might explain why it stopped working :(

Why is the 944 forum plagued with Office Space references :confused: