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bleeding the clutch

I have looked at many different post about this but cannot find one that works. I recently replaced the clutch, but found the first couple gears felt like they were not fully engaging. So I decided to bleed the clutch. First try no good. Realized there were chunks of rubber from the res. broken in the brake master cylinder. cleaned that out, replaced rubber, and put back in. nothing. then ordered a new blue line and new clutch master cylinder because that wasn't in good shape when I pulled it out. tried to bleed again. nothing. took the slave cylinder out to make sure air was even coming through the line, it was, but just air. no fluid. I did read somewhere about having to bleed it backwards? can someone help

Old 05-19-2013, 07:02 PM
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Build a pressure bleeder for $20:

The DIY $20 brake bleeder

Then use it to completely flush your brake & clutch fluid with fresh DOT3 fluid.

If this doesn't solve the problem then you may have a bad slave cylinder and/or a bad clutch master cylinder.

Final note: be very careful with brake fluid. Don't get it on paint or it will eat it. Second use it or lose it. Once open it starts to collect water from the air and goes bad. For a full flush use a large bottle, then switch to smaller bottles for routine brake bleeding.

Good luck!
Old 05-19-2013, 07:09 PM
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Here is a great video- It works without anything more that a simple bleeder-
BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding - YouTube
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:32 PM
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jack back of the car way up (and I mean WAY up). Since the bleeder is on the end of the slave you want that end higher so the air moves up.
Old 05-20-2013, 07:38 AM
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After many years of frustration (mostly with my wife while I tried to get her to pump, hold and release in the proper sequence), I have had unmitigated success with the following:

1) Motive Power Bleeder. Use it dry, do not fill it with fluid, just keep an eye on fluid level. Use about 10 psi or you run the risk of blowing the reservoir off the brake master.

2) Raise the rear of the car as much as possible above the front of the car. When the car is level, the slave cylinder sits at an angle that traps an air bubble away from the bleeder.

3) Keep working it until you get all the bubbles out.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:06 AM
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So George had the same problem that I did with the wife helping to bleed the brakes. After one time, my wife told me she married me for better or worse but not for brake bleeding. I bought a Motive bleeder.

If you cannot get the air out of the clutch line, try this:

Take off the front left wheel, run a piece of vinyl tubing from the caliper bleed valve to the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Open the valves and start pumping the brake pedal. This way the fluid goes up rather than down and it is a closed system. It is best to use two people (no wives), one to pump and one to watch and catch the brake fluid with a rag. If you have Speed Bleeders on the calipers which have silicone on them then there is not as much fluid leaking.

If the Motive fails, this works.

Good to see George B. is still out there.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:59 PM
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Bleed backwards...

I have had allot of success with the back bleed when needed for a dirty system...

Get an Oil Squirt Can of 200ML or larger, and with a 3" or longer spout - A length of plastic clear tubing (To see the fluid) - Fill can full of fluid (Super Blue would work as you will be able to see the blue in the MC Reservoir after a bit) - Now with the can full pump the oil can until the tubing is full of fluid - Make sure there are no air bubbles in the tubing, and keep a good watch on it - Connect the plastic tubing to the Slave cylinder bleed screw and then loosen the bleed screw - Pump allot of fluid into the Slave Cylinder - have a friend keep an eye on the MC Reservoir and when necessary remove excess fluid with a Turkey Baster - If you replace the Turkey Baster back with the wife's other cooking stuff you are in trouble...

Have pfun
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mueller944s2 View Post
jack back of the car way up (and I mean WAY up). Since the bleeder is on the end of the slave you want that end higher so the air moves up.
Is there any way to jack up just the back of the car? Lifting it from the factory jack point then putting a jack stand in place and moving to the other side of the car seems like it will twist the body a lot.
Old 05-21-2013, 03:05 PM
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I think you will find that instead of twisting the body the whole side of the car will raise - front wheel and back. Then going to the other side the front wheel will lower and both rear wheels will be off of the ground. Our 944's are pretty strong twist wise. My only complaint is in the strut towers as they move some in hard cornering, therefore the need for a Strut Bar.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:03 PM
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Yup... I'd just park on an incline... the front raises pretty much no matter what
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocacolakidd View Post
I think you will find that instead of twisting the body the whole side of the car will raise - front wheel and back. Then going to the other side the front wheel will lower and both rear wheels will be off of the ground. Our 944's are pretty strong twist wise. My only complaint is in the strut towers as they move some in hard cornering, therefore the need for a Strut Bar.
I understand that the entire side of the car will rise. I've done it before and it didn't look to healthy for the car because a lot of weight is put on one front tire and the jack stand.
Old 05-21-2013, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorscheChef View Post
Here is a great video- It works without anything more that a simple bleeder-
BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding - YouTube
It seems like this would be the easiest and cheapest to do. Is there a reason not to do it this way on the 944?
Old 05-22-2013, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunkerz View Post
Is there any way to jack up just the back of the car? Lifting it from the factory jack point then putting a jack stand in place and moving to the other side of the car seems like it will twist the body a lot.
Use a floor jack under the transmission.
Old 05-22-2013, 08:15 AM
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thanks for the info. hopefully I can get the car running by this long weekend.
Old 05-22-2013, 06:18 PM
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I'd back it onto some rhino ramps.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:25 PM
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Quote:

Quote de Chunkerz



Is there any way to jack up just the back of the car? Lifting it from the factory jack point then putting a jack stand in place and moving to the other side of the car seems like it will twist the body a lot.

Use a floor jack under the transmission.
That's not harmful??
Old 05-22-2013, 06:50 PM
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it seems like fluid is not getting into the second half (clutch supply) of the reservoir. I used a brake bleeder, and its also not holding pressure. how common is it for the rubber hose that drops to the slave cylinder go bad?
Old 05-24-2013, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave6riv View Post
it seems like fluid is not getting into the second half (clutch supply) of the reservoir. I used a brake bleeder, and its also not holding pressure. how common is it for the rubber hose that drops to the slave cylinder go bad?
Not common. If that hose is bad, you will see brake fluid leaking from it, especially under pressure from the pressure bleeder.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave6riv View Post
it seems like fluid is not getting into the second half (clutch supply) of the reservoir. I used a brake bleeder, and its also not holding pressure. how common is it for the rubber hose that drops to the slave cylinder go bad?
Not holding pressure means it's leaking somewhere. Do you see fluid leaking out anywhere?
Old 05-25-2013, 08:56 AM
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Sometimes if the slave seals are blown the only way to check is to pop off the clutch inspection cover and feel for fluid.

The Motive bleeder is a must-have.

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Old 05-25-2013, 01:03 PM
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