91 S2 all of my dash warning lights are on

mhr · 08:26 PM

My car had been stored for the winter (about 4 months).

This week
I changed the rear fuel lines.
Took off the valve cover to change all the gaskets because I was getting oil in my spark plug holes.

Closed it all up and started it up.

It ran fine, I had some fuel leaking from one of the hose connections near the fender but corrected it and now no fuel leaks or oil running from around the valve cover that I can see. I took it for a short drive and it seemed to run well. Then the ! Light came on at idle then indicated oil pressure was low.

I added some oil because it was low and tried to start it up. It was hard to start but it did start but now EVERY light on the dash is on and the oil pressure, temp and volt are all showing 0. If I release the parking break that light will go off but everything else stays on, oil level, oil pressure, brakes wear, abs, !, temperature etc.

So far I have checked the battery terminals and they are good. Also did a general look around and haven't seen anything.

I have some time on Sunday to work on the car and am looking for any ideas so I can have a plan of attack?

Thanks

Mark

mhr · 03-29-2013, 08:55 PM

I was just thinking is there anything in or near the passenger fender that could have gotten messed up from the leaking gas from the fuel line that was no tight enough after I changed it. It was leaking into the hole in the fender that it comes out of.

Gawernator · Gawernator's Garage

Try cleaning your grounds to start

mhr · 03-30-2013, 06:32 AM

Anyone know of a list of grounds and their locations for an s2 of at Least know where the main ones are.

Jfrahm · 03-31-2013, 06:52 AM

Have you checked the ribbon connectors on the cluster? They can be loose particularly if someone broke the locking ears off.

ernie9944 · ernie9944's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhr

Anyone know of a list of grounds and their locations for an s2 of at Least know where the main ones are.

.........

Grandad#3 · 03-31-2013, 02:16 PM

All the Ground Wires are BROWN in color. The Main Ground is on the Top of the Bell Housing. If you ever try to clean it be sure to put tape over the Bell Housing Opening. The tape is to prevent anything dropping into the Clutch Area. To be on the SAFE Side, disconnect the battery.

Cheers,
Larry

J1NX3D · J1NX3D's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by ernie9944

.........

do you have the diagram/ pics of the grounds behind the dash? 9(ate 944)

Mrmerlin · 03-31-2013, 03:55 PM

is the alternator belt tight?
did you disturb any of the alternator wires during the valve cover repair?
are the battery terminal both tight?

mhr · 03-31-2013, 07:03 PM

I did all of the grounds today. I noticed I was working above the bell housing opening and stuffed a rag in there to prevent anything from falling in.

Problem not solved and I now think I actually have an oil pressure problem. When I start the engine now I hear the valves a lot more than normal.

I am going to look at the oprv tomorrow if I get some time. Perhaps coincidentally on my test drive it got stuck.

That does not explain why the brake fluid, brake wear lights are on but one thing at a time.

BTW once I was doing the grounds I also changed out most of the vaccuum hoses with the lyndsay kit I had purchased and did an oil change to make sure the filter was not the problem.

Any input is appreciated.

Mark

mhr · 03-31-2013, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

is the alternator belt tight?
did you disturb any of the alternator wires during the valve cover repair?
are the battery terminal both tight?

Battery terminals are tight and the alternator looks good.

Grandad#3 · 03-31-2013, 08:43 PM

After removing the OPRV you will need a new crush washer and o-ring for it.You should be able to move the bottom of the OPRV side to side a little while holding the top still.

Cheers,
Larry

mhr · 04-01-2013, 06:11 AM

I will order the crush washer and o rings today as well as a new sender while I am working in that area. I Will let you know although it will probably take a couple of weeks to get the parts.

Thanks
Mark

kdjones2000 · kdjones2000's Garage

Mark, once you find the issue that caused your problem you will likely still need a "hammer" to reset your warning lights.

If you know someone with one you might just try that now and see what happens...

mhr · 04-01-2013, 06:57 AM

I have a durametric cable so I will try ASAP

I completely forgot about that thanks for reminding me!

mhr · 04-01-2013, 07:25 AM

Just plugged it in. No fault codes showing weird. Started the car for 5 seconds and it sounds like a Diesel tractor. Don't think I want to do that again until I get the oil pressure resolved.

Jfrahm · 04-01-2013, 02:54 PM

My thinking is that your oil pressure screamer is also lighting up all the other warning lamps due to a loose connection to the cluster. You do not need a tool to reset most of those, just the airbag if you have a late S2 or a 968. I am not sure what kind of car you have.

You said it was hard to start, have you checked to see if the engine turns freely? Can you push the car in 5th or 6th and turn the motor?

Have you retorqued the crank bolt?

mhr · 04-01-2013, 04:08 PM

actually starts pretty well was just that one time that it was a problem.

I am with you on your theory. I really believe at this point that my oil pressure is at 1 bar just based on the sound of the engine when I start it.

I have not retorqued the crank bolt. Have never done it is there a procedure somewhere. Do I need a flywheel lock?

mhr · 04-11-2013, 06:56 PM

PROBLEM NOT SOLVED

So I took out the OPRV took it apart, cleaned it changed the o rings. And everything looks good with it. There was nothing scored and the piston moved smoothly within. I started up the car and still little to no oil pressure. And I have no doubt that there is no oil pressure since the engine sounds sick. I try not to run it for any length of time or rev it at all so as to try and prevent damage.

How many times can I start it with little to no oil pressure without damaging it?

Whats next? Torque the crank bolt? Is it really possible that after 3 years of running perfectly the crank bolt loosened? I don't have a flywheel lock will have to find one if that is the next thing to try.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

kfray · kfray's Garage

Do you still have all of the warning lights on and the gauges reading zero? If the volt meter reads zero I would trouble shoot the volt meter first you do not need to run the engine just need the key on. What year and model is your car?