Trying to STOP my leak,... Help me.

overkill · 07-24-2002, 01:50 PM

Ok, here is where I am as of now,...

First, I noticed somthing that was NOT agreeing with me,... The toothed belt for my balanceshaft appears to be slightly loose, I think. I this picture It is barely touching the roller. I don't know if it is suppose to be on it snug or not.

Here I am pulling it away and I am using minimal pressure. I wanted to use somthing thin and fragile to give you an idea on how little pressure was used to pull it away from the roller.

In these pictures you see me kinda twisting it a bit to show you. What I'm getting at is, do you guyz think it looks to loose?

Another question, I know it is extremly important to maintain the position of the timing gear. Is there anything else I have to do other then mark on the belt where the gash in the gear goes(as seen in picture)? Also, do I have to loosen the timing belt to get the gear out? If so how would I go about that?

Thanks for you help guyz.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Your balance shaft belt does not look that loose. And your correct it just sits on top of the idler pulley, there should be no tension at that roller.

overkill · 07-24-2002, 03:20 PM

I tightened the balance belt so it is nice a snug now. Now, that roller where the belt was barely even touching it,... you said no tension, does that mean that the belt doesn't even touch it as in bring as close to as possible without touching or make the belt just touch it a tiny winy bit with no tension?

overkill · 04:10 PM

GOD DAMN IT!!!! I CAN'T GET THAT CHEESEHEAD OFF!!! I think I already strip it a bit too. How the hell am I going to get it off??? This sucks!!! Worse come to worse,... if I strip it what happens after that? How would I get it out? Drill it and use an easyout? DAMN IT THIS SUCKS!!! I tapped the cheesehead with a hammer to loosen the threads and I'm using a penatrent on it as we speak. What else to do??? Also, the 32mm wrench is slightly to big

I not worried about though. I'm suppoe to turn the cheesehead counter-clockwise right?

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Many over estimate the amount of tension required for the front belts. Somewhere I read about using a small fish scale and a ruler to set the tensions on the belts. Anyone???

Not knowing exactly what your are trying to do I will kibitz:

You have to have both the cam gear mark lined up as your picture shows and the TDC mark on the flywheel showing in the little port below the speed and ref senders. There is a pointer that comes off of the bell housing that should line up with the mark on the flywheel.

Haynes Page 55 Illustration 7.5

The counter balance shafts are aligned to marks on the rear plastic cover only after the engine is rotated to TDC (top dead center). Important if you take off the CB belt.

The idler for the long span of the counter balance belt is not to actually touch the belt but come darn close. This is to keep the belt from oscillating or slapping.

Now what are you trying to do?

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

It it a six point or 12 point socket head?

You could just drill off the head and pull the cam gear and it's related hubs off.

This would relieve the tension on the bolt and let you get to it with a vice grips.

overkill · 07-24-2002, 05:03 PM

I am crying right now,... because I FINALLY GOT THAT **** OFF!!! WHO IS THE MAN!!!!!!!! DAMN, I AMAZE MYSELF!!!!! OK OK, you want to know how I did it, HA HA HA

I USED A FAT ASS PLUMBERS WRENCH ON THE HEAD OF THE BOLT. To keep the ger from turning I used a 7mm hex key and lodged it in between the teeth of the gear and the spout thing sticking out from the back of the housing. Its used to hold the front of the housing on. Anyway, I did that and used that fat ass plumbers wrench and watched the gear the whole time to make sure it didn't move. Before you know it BOOM, it came off. I checked the teeth of the gear and all is well. Now, I have to get new bolt, that washer nut thing and some anti-seize even though anti-seize probably won't help because of the nature of the bolt and washers job. I pulled everything out and there it was my leaking seal. SWEET, I am so happy right now

I'm going to bed have to work tonight, I'll see you guyz tomorrow when I change the seal and rip out my injectors. Till then. thanks

overkill · 07-24-2002, 05:13 PM

I didn't take any belts off. I marked the belt where the TDC mark was on the gear. All I have to do I is put the gear back in the right position.

overkill · 07-24-2002, 10:58 PM

I have a couple of questions,... can I get another one of those cheesehead bolts at Home Depot or somthing? Do I have to order it online? Also, what are some good brake pads, that are nt to expensive? Another question, next thursday I am going to puchase Koni Sport inserts for the front of the car and I am oing to mate it with the sachs I have now. I also want to purchase new springs. How do I determine the lowest height that my car can be lowered without causing damage? Also, 250lb springs stiff enough for track/road? Whats the next poundage up?

97XRAY · 97XRAY's Garage

NAPA or some such auto supply should have the bolts... try to get the same density metal. It's usually marked on one end or the other. I appluad your work by the way, and would absolutely replace the bolt; remember how I told you about the cam pulley vibrating on mine and causing valve damage. Yeah, live in fear! So get the right bolt, tighten it down correctly, and feel good about doing some great work!

overkill · 07-25-2002, 06:48 AM

Thanks alot 97XRAY

I'm about to head down to the store now and get the bolt. I have to finish everything up today so I can get the car back one the road. I have to do three doubles back to back starting on friday

I need the money for my Koni's and exhaust system

This is going to be sweet. The next major thing that I'll have to do is drop a rebuilt 951 engine in! Till then. Bye

Britwrench · 07-25-2002, 07:40 AM

I would be very suprised if any shops have the bolt you need.
Buy the correct bolt from Porsche. Most shops do not sell the grade of bolt required for this application.

ae1969 · 07-25-2002, 08:09 AM

Overkill.....

you mention a few post back.........."the belt is nice and snug now"

Don't tighten the balance belt to tight....that engine likes to expand. In reality the belt actually does feel loose when installed.

Also you asked "if you have to loosen the timing belt to get the gear out"

No you don't, but you will have to probably loosen it to get it back in...... I tried doing the same thing....

overkill · 07-25-2002, 08:54 AM

BRITWRENCH: I just picked up a bolt with a hex head and same strength rating. Would this be a bad idea?

AE1969: Yeah, I think I made it a bit to snug, i'm going to lossen it a bit.

kenny · 07-25-2002, 10:57 AM

like I said before -- the balance shaft belt belt will whine (like mine does) a bit when too tight. I'm letting it ride until I goback in and retension the timing belt. It whines a bit less than when I first did it, but I can sense it is still a little tight (let the P-force be with you). If it ain't flopping it's OK -- plus, if it does screw up it won't break crap like the timing belt!

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by overkill
BRITWRENCH: I just picked up a bolt with a hex head and same strength rating. Would this be a bad idea?

AE1969: Yeah, I think I made it a bit to snug, i'm going to lossen it a bit.

A hex head bolt same length and strength is ok as long as the dist. rotor adaptor can be properly attached.

Did you read the thread about what the torque is?

45Nm for the hex head (this must be the six point Allen)
65Nm for the cheesehead (aka triple square, double torx)

1.356 Nm for each Ft Pd

33 FtPd for early bolts -- six point Allen head
50 FtPd for newer harder bolts -- 12 point Allen head

So if what you removed is a standard six point Allen head and you replaced it with the same hardness then use 33 ft.pds.

If the bolt you removed was a 12 point Allen head and you replaced it with the same (greater) hardness use 50 ft.pds.

Caution: Don't over torque the bolt.

overkill · 07-25-2002, 12:54 PM

I forgot the order of the spark plugs on the DIS CAP. Does anyone know what the order is on a "S" DIS CAP???

Britwrench · 01:43 PM

I would always use the correct Porsche bolt in this situation.
The higher torque was used because the pulleys used to come loose, which obviously is not a good thing.

The belt timing should always be checked and the belt only installed at TDC.

overkill · 07-25-2002, 01:52 PM

UMMM, I have a problem here. I put everything back together and forgot the order of the spark plugs on the DIS CAP. So I hooked them up to thebest of memory and it wouldnt start. I checked the position of the timing belt and the mark I painted on the belt moved from the notch on the gear by alot! How did this happen, and what do i do!!!! I sware I heard a ching noise too doing start. I think I hit my valves!!!! What do I do???

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Like Brit said you always need to return to TDC before putting the belt back on. Even tensioning a tiny bit can move the belt a few teeth. Stop now, get the belt of and get the engine to TDC before you try anything else. And pray that you don't have any bent valves.