Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > Porsche Forums > Porsche 924/944/968 Technical Forum


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Black and Blue
 
Kemo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, TX USA - Ya'll
Posts: 2,552
Send a message via Yahoo to Kemo
Thinking of getting into a Spec 944 and need advice

I kinda have the Spec 944 bug as of late. it seems like a really great car to head to the track with a reasonable budget. With that in mind, what would be the best years to look for in the 924/944 range and what are things to lookout for. I love my 911SC, but I think the 944 is a great platform and alot of fun to drive as well. I'd love to add one to my stable.

things I have already researched include the water pump, the tapping of the head back to reservoir, rod bearings and timing belts.

are all these years basically the same or do some years give you a better starting point? Best year engine? Best chassis?

I know the best advice would be to just buy a spec car already built. But keep in mind that I actually enjoy the build process and im not in a hurry .

Thanks in advance for any advice here,

__________________
Kemo
1978 911 SC Non-Sunroof Coupe, two tone Primer Black and SWEPCO Blue, Currently serving as a Track Whore
1981 911 SC Sunroof Coupe, Pacific Blue Project, Future Daily Driver
Old 10-01-2013, 08:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 52
Try to find a 1988. It has the one year only, higher compression and also has the short 5th gear. Ideally, it will be a non sunroof coupe, but not likely to happen.
Old 10-01-2013, 10:05 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
The newest of the noobs!
 
grendiers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: AZ
Posts: 813
That would be an '88 924S with a shorter fifth gear. Check out 944spec.org for further information. Buying a car already setup for 944 Spec racing is a good way to go, much cheaper. A few technical writeups are there as well, if you decide to build one yourself.
__________________
1989 944 Turbo
2004 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited - Built!
1985 Saurer 6dm overland Swiss military truck/camper
Old 10-01-2013, 02:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
AirBorne!
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,191
Buy Used

There are plenty of used 944 Spec cars on the market. Find one near you, ensure the cage is up to spec, and go drive it. You can't build one from scratch cheaper than you can buy one and fix it up. Plus, less hassle.
__________________
2008 997 C4S Silver, Kitty Cat, 1989 3.4 911 Silver Carrera, Erica, 1989 944S2 NASA GTS2, Iris, 1988 944 DE Car, Backdate 1975S to 1970s w 3.0 PMO - Roxanne, 1967 911 normal w 2.2s engine w S goodies, 89 VW Cabriolet - 2.0 conversion - sold and missed
Old 10-01-2013, 03:40 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered
 
FrenchToast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Space-time continuum
Posts: 1,231
Yea, you could go used. Not my thing though.

I would prefer to build my own, for a variety of reasons. Most notably because many other cars don't look well-built. Not all of them, but a lot - and that scares me.

I don't think non-sunroof cars are important. The rollcage you add would get rid of any stiffness advantage one had over the other. And, the sunroof cars are actually reported to be stronger due to the extra bracing.

As mentioned, typically the '88 924S is regarded as the ideal starting point. Lightness of the early cars, big(ger) power from the higher compression engine.

However, it has its drawbacks. The early 944's (up to '85.5) and all 924S' have a hollow front left spindle for speedo drive, which can break under high or frequent load. Later cars received solid spindles on both sides. And obviously the 924S has a narrower track. Unless you convert it to a 944 body - which I think is within the rules but its been a while since I've read that section.

If I got an early car I think the first thing I would do is change the spindles. Even for street driving. Too many stories.

Aluminum front A-arms ('85.5 and up 944 only, not 924S) are generally accepted as weaker than the early steel arms. If you get an aluminum-armed car, I would switch to steel arms.

The later cars (again '85.5+, excluding 924S) have a higher steering column. This may be an issue if you are tall. But either way it probably makes it easier to get in and out.

Depending on which class you enter, 17" wheels may be an option. (I think?). The offset on the 924S and '87+ 944's can use later Porsche OEM wheels on, such as Cup1's, Cup2's, Boxster Twists, etc. etc. You can run these high-offset wheels on earlier cars, but it requires adapters. I don't like adapters because of the added stress on the hubs, and the extra set of lugs.

They changed the offset in '87 in order to make all cars ABS-prepared. Note that not all '87 cars came with ABS however. The 924S has the offset of the earlier cars (and no ABS), but the narrower fenders make the desired offset offset similar to that of the late 944's.

Take care,

Last edited by FrenchToast; 10-01-2013 at 04:55 PM..
Old 10-01-2013, 04:42 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
tamathumper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 383
Are you considering non-sunroof for structural integrity, or head/helmet clearnance?
__________________
'78 924 "NA"
'87 944 "S"
'93 968 "SC"
Old 10-02-2013, 02:28 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
 
Black and Blue
 
Kemo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, TX USA - Ya'll
Posts: 2,552
Send a message via Yahoo to Kemo
thanks for the input... I have been reading a bit on my own as well. It seems an 88' with early steel A-arms and short 5th gear is a really good starting point. So which transmissions have the short 5th gear? Also, I have heard that you can change the ball joints on a steel A-arm but not a later aluminum one. Any truth to this? Seems kinda pricey to replace the whole a-arm assembly for a ball joint.
__________________
Kemo
1978 911 SC Non-Sunroof Coupe, two tone Primer Black and SWEPCO Blue, Currently serving as a Track Whore
1981 911 SC Sunroof Coupe, Pacific Blue Project, Future Daily Driver
Old 10-02-2013, 11:45 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #7 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 52
The 87 & 88 924S along with the 88 944 had the short 5th. To put the steel arms in a late chassis, you have to change the struts, spindles, hubs, and brake calipers. You will also have to run early offset rims in the front, and late offset in the rear, if you are dealing with an 88. The reason that the steel arms are used, is that you can lower the car more than with the aluminum arms. The aluminum arms are stronger than the steel arms, but if you lower the car too much using the aluminum arms, you will break the ball joint, or pull it out of its socket.
The reason that you want a non sunroof car, is that the roof is lighter than in a sunroof car, taking weight out of the top of the car. You want as much weight as possible between the wheels, and as low as possible.
I strongly suggest that you buy an existing spec car, drive it for a couple of seasons, and learn what you like and dislike about the car, as well as learn what the best drivers have done to their cars. This will save you a lot of grief, by not wasting money through experimentation, and finding out that some of your stuff doesn't work. Once you understand, then build your car. My son and I have built 3 944's and only now feel that we can build a top car, (car #4) right out of the box, and don't have to upgrade anything, or feel that something could have been done better.
If you insist on building a car, you will need to do a lot of investigation, and expect a lot of trial and error. Building a spec car is certainly easier than many other classes, but lean on the Spec 944 website and Spec directors for info.
Old 10-02-2013, 01:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #8 (permalink)
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 52
The ball joint in the aluminum arm can be replaced. Check around, there are several kits available.
Also, regarding the drilled spindles, every one that I am aware of, that has broken, has had an impact on the wheel previously, and should have been changed out at that time, so I wouldn't worry about it until you have had a contact.
Old 10-02-2013, 01:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #9 (permalink)
Registered
 
racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,347
Just because its a 944 doesn't automatically make it cheaper to race but one way to do it cheaper is to buy an already built car.

__________________
1970 914-6

Past:
2000 Boxster 2.7, 1987 944, 1987 924S
1978 911SC, 1976 914 2.0, 1970 914 w/2056

Last edited by racer; 10-02-2013 at 04:30 PM..
Old 10-02-2013, 04:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #10 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:03 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.