Please help me identify 944 electrical parts

[Project560]

I re-installed the throttle body and left the TPS off completely. I installed a jumper between terminal 2 and 18 (ground) at the connector in the engine bay. I checked that I had continuity between 2 and ground at the DME/ECU. The engine started, but then would die after 5 seconds. I tried removing the throttle body vacuum line, same deal. I removed the jumper, same deal. I re-installed the vacuum line, same deal. It actually idled better before I removed the throttle body and TPS.

It is possible that I missed something when I put things back together, so I will re-check again when the weather improves. The other thing I might do is re-install the TPS since it may hold the throttle plate open a crack or something, so I wonder if not having it there at all is impacting things. Wish me luck.

[JonA]

Do you have fuel pressure, does the fuel pump continue to run? Sometimes a bad DME relay will work for a few seconds and then cut out. Put in the three pigtail jumper in place of the relay and see what happens. Our good friend Clark's Garage describes how to do this.

Jon

[Project560]

Rookie mistake - it turns out that I failed to re-connect the auxiliary air valve tube that goes to the underside of the intake J-boot yesterday. Serves me right for rushing.

So I am back to troubleshooting a rough idle condition. I am getting to know my car in the process. I cleaned the TPS, put it back together and re-installed it even though the WOT switch is broken. The idle switch works so I figured it was good enough for testing.

I also checked the resistance on the DME temperature sensor. The reading at -5 C in the garage was 4.78 K ohms.This is higher than the value cited on Clark's Garage for 15 C, so I assume that the sensor is ok.

I also checked the temperature sensor on the AFM. The reading I got was 5 k ohms, which also seems to be in the right range for -5 C.

While it was idling from a cold start, I pinched the auxiliary air valve tube that goes to the j-boot. When totally pinched the engine will almost die. I decided to remove the AAV to see if it is opening fully on a cold start. I managed to remove it without removing the intake. I will keep checking things until I get it running nice and smooth. Thanks.

[Project560]

Happy New Year everyone! Well I have done a few things since before the holidays. I reinstalled my auxiliary air valve and the engine seemed to run the same. Very rich and stinky. I had adjusted it to supply a bit more air than before. I understand how it operates now, so that is always a good thing.

Today the weather was warm again and the snow was melting so I decided that I would finally re-connect my O2 sensor. The original connector was broken (recall Post #1), so I followed Jason's detailed instructions (944 Forum - Broken O2 sensor wire connector?) and it runs way better now. The smell has pretty much disappeared and it seems to run like a normal car now. Yippee!

I decided that it was time to try and drive it up and down the driveway. The car was sitting for a few years before I got it, so the shifter was a brute to move. I sprayed the linkage at the transmission with Kroil to loosen things up. I was able to get it to move backwards and forwards one time, but then couldn't get it into reverse again. I will have to spend some more time under the car and clean-up the linkage assembly and lubricate it properly. Overall I am happy with my progress. Take care.

[AKCJ]

Good to hear someone is saving another one.
Regarding your rough idle - I ended up pulling the intake manifold and replacing a bunch of the old hoses under there. It did help.

[88Silver924S]

Agreed, good to see another 944 resurrected. As for your rough running can we assume you have checked/cleaned/replaced the basics such as distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and plugs?

How many miles are on the car? Do you have any maintenance history on the car?

Vacuum leaks can also cause roughness. With so much oil in the TPS your vacuum lines may need to be removed, flushed clean and reinstalled with new connectors; the 4mm rubber "U" and "Y" connectors get cracked and leaky with age (Put "vacuum connectors" in the Pelican Parts search box).

With that much oil in the intake you may want to take off the intake manifold and clean it out (mouse crap?). It is pretty easy to do and makes replacing the Air-Oil Separator o-rings easier as well as accessing all the rubber hoses. The injectors may be gummed up and need cleaning.

I recommend a brake fluid flush before driving much if it has been that neglected. If you don't have a power bleeder just "gravity bleed", it takes time but works very well (don't forget the clutch slave). Also antifreeze flush (including pulling the engine block drain plug) and of course an oil change. If the gas you are running on is several years old you may want to put some fresh gas in it and save that years-old gas for the lawn mower.

Good luck and have fun.

[Project560]

The weather got really cold here so I haven't been out in the garage for a few days. Thanks for the advice AKCJ and 88Silver924S. I will probably pull off the intake soon so that I can change the AOS o-rings and clean-up the hose situation. I keep adding to my Pelican grocery cart and will place an order soon.

As far as what I have done already, I have replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires, cleaned up the throttle body and cleaned up the contacts and tested the air flow meter. The AAV seems to be working too. The gas tank was empty when I put in new gasoline and I added some injector cleaner, but I don't doubt that the injectors need to be replaced. I have a new fuel filter, but haven't installed it yet.

Since the O2 sensor wasn't connected for the first part of my troubleshooting I pulled the new plugs and they were all black. I wasn't certain whether the black plugs were because it was running rich or because it was burning oil. I guess it could be both because of the AOS o-rings, but I also did a compression test and all cylinders were just over 150 psi. That's good news. I will get new plugs and run it again now that the O2 sensor is working.

Meanwhile, the cooling fan doesn't seem to be running on low speed so I will dig into the cooling fan resistor circuit. The transaxle also looks like it has been sitting too long. I will be putting in new oil and then looking more closely at the linkages to try and get it to shift so I can move it up and down the driveway.

I was looking for a project car to fill in some spare time now that my kids are getting a bit older. This car looks like it will keep me busy for quite a while yet and it is a fun challenge. The car only cost me $560 Canadian (<$400 US) and it is giving me hours of enjoyment so far. As my wife says, it cost less than a trip to Costco...I am sure that I will spend a bit more than that by the time I am all done.

[Project560]

Apart from the air oil separator seals, I am curious to know if many people bother replacing the throttle body shaft seals. Is this worth the effort or just something that is good to do? Thanks.

[Project560]

Next step is to change out my gearbox oil, but I have to take a little break from working on my car for a few weeks.

I had been having minor chest pains on and off for about 10 days and decided that it was a good idea to go to the hospital on Friday morning (Jan. 29, 2016). The hospital ran a few tests and said that I had a minor heart attack and needed to stay in the hospital and have an angiogram. The doctors were happy that I had decided to get checked out instead of going for my last ever ski trip with the kids that afternoon.

My heart rate, blood pressure, ECG, echo cardiogram results were all normal, but a blood test confirmed that some heart cells had died because of the presence of a protein called cardiac troponin. They called it a Non-STEMI heart attack because it doesn't show a difference on the ECG. They gave me medication until I was able to have an angiogram. On Wednesday morning (Feb 3, 2016) I had an angiogram and they noticed that one artery was 80% blocked so they put in a stent to re-establish proper flow. I was out of the hospital that night (yesterday) and everything is great.

So you are probably thinking, this can't happen to me etc. because that guy is different. Well, I am only 48 years old, I weigh 170 lbs, I go to the gym a few times a week and my wife makes me eat healthy meals. I have never had any cholesterol problems, I don't smoke and I don't have any other medical conditions. My only vice is working on my 944.

The moral of the story is - if you are having any chest pain where it feels like someone is squeezing your heart (even a little) go to the hospital and have them check for cardiac enzymes in your blood. Your family will be glad you did - even if it means that you have to cancel your winter family vacation...

This link has more information in case you need it: https://www.ottawaheart.ca/heart-condition/heart-attack

I am still planning to hit the streets with my project car this spring and thanks to the Ottawa Heart Institute and the Civic Hospital in Ottawa, I am very happy that I am able to keep working on it. Thanks for listening.

[AKCJ]

Wow Andrew! Take care of yourself! (It sounds like you are.)
Here's to keeping on top of our 944 health as well as our own.

[Project560]

The snow is finally starting to melt, so I have been able to start playing in the garage again. I got the engine running ~ok, but shifting has still been a problem because it has been sitting so long. I got it up on jack stands so that I could change the transaxle oil and prepare to remove the transaxle (if needed). I sprayed the shift linkage and the drain plugs with lots of PB Blaster. I bought a good quality set of hex sockets to give me the best chance of success for removing the 17 mm drain plugs.

I tried removing the plugs with my 1/2" drive breaker bar, but it didn't budge. I decided to move on to my 3' bar with a 3/4" drive and it worked perfectly. I bought the 3 footer to remove hubs from an old Acura about 10 years ago and this is the 2nd time I have really needed it. Once I pick-up my new plugs I will flush and change the oil.

The PB Blaster worked wonders on the shift linkage too, so I was actually able to run it through the gears finally and get the wheels to spin (the right one anyway). So I am happy that it doesn't look like I need to change out my transmission (yet).

While it is on stands I will replace the fuel filter and a few of the rear fuel hoses. Next I will switch back to working on the engine and replace the air oil separator o-rings, heater control valve, throttle position switch, vacuum lines, rad hoses and belts.

Before it will be ready for a safety check and licensing I will need to replace the broken windshield, check the suspension, re-do the brakes, figure out my battery drain issue and of course get the interior cleaned-up. The rear tires seem to be worn on the inside edge, so hopefully there isn't anything too wrong with the rear suspension. All of the great advice on this forum is definitely helping me along my journey to get my old 944 back on the road.

[Project560]

I pushed my car out of the garage to soak up some sunshine on the weekend and take care of a few things on my to do list. Now I have 2 questions for the forum:

1. I cleaned up the rear ground lug just in front of the tail lights. There was another connector and wire attached to the ground lug, but it was cut. It didn't look original. Am I missing a second ground wire here? See picture.


2. I have new oil in the transaxle. I used PB blaster on the rear shift linkage and then lubricated it as well as I could. Now I am able to engage all forward gears, but when I move the shifter into reverse the car only goes forward. It feels like it is going into reverse and I am not able to move it to the right and back any further. Do you think that it is a problem with the front shift lever, the rear shift mechanism or an internal problem with the gearbox? Any advice would be great.