Help!!! Clutch won't come back up.

[Jodi]

I went to drive my car the other day and when I pushed down on the clutch pedal it stayed down. I looked at it and every visible part looks good. What could be the problem?

[Lawrence Coppari]

Clutches are hydraulically operated. You probably have air in the system. Your system will have to be bled. But you are going to have to determine why there is air in the system. You may also have a bad master cylinder or slave cylinder.

The system reservoir is the brake reservoir. Check the level. Check for brake fluid beneath the car.

[SoCal Driver]

Sometimes filling the bake reservoir back up and pumping the clutch slowly several times will bring the clutch back.

Sometimes.

[divezic]

Check the brake fluid reservoir. If it has enough fluid then you probably need either a new clutch slave or master cylinder. I suggest changing them both at the same time. If one went then the other will probably go within a year.

It's an easy job that takes about 2-3 hours for both.

[ChrisBennet]

When you replace the master and the slave, teplace the hose that connects them as well.
-Chris

[divezic]

My '84 has a metal tube connecting the two cylinders that doesn't need replacing unless the threads get damaged. I would consider changing the flex tube from the reservoir to the master cylinder.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by divezic
My '84 has a metal tube connecting the two cylinders that doesn't need replacing unless the threads get damaged. I would consider changing the flex tube from the reservoir to the master cylinder.

Ah! I didn't know that. I replaced the hose on my '89 S2 because it has a rubber part (I think).
-Chris
EDIT: I checked, that hose on my car has a rubber section and metal ends.

[Jodi]

O.K. I made sure the brake fluid was full then pumped the pedal as SoCal suggested and it didn't work. I am going to have the car towed to the shop today and have it checked out. If it is the master cylinder or slave cylinder are the expensive to fix?

[divezic]

You need to change the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. One of these have a bad seal which is not letting the system pressurize. In my opinion it doesn't matter which. Change them both because when one goes the other will go in less than a year and you might be stuck in traffic.

If you have any mechanical skill you can do this yourself. It's a matter of removing/replacing the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and bleeding the system.

Jack up the front of the car and SECURE IT WITH AT LEAST 2 JACKSTANDS.

Master cylinder--Use a hose pinch-off on the hose from the brake/clutch reservoir (reservoir is one and the same) to cylinder. Unscrew this tube from cylinder. Unscrew tube that goes to slave cylinder. Remove 2 bolts that hold cylinder to firewall (these are tricky to get at and a smaller hand is helpful). Carefully slide the cylinder out, leaving the rod that goes from the pedal to cylinder. Installation is the reverse if removal. Lastly go under the dash and adjust the pedal-to-cylinder rod so there is only about 1 or 2 mm pedal travel before the rod starts pushing on the cylinder.

Slave cylinder--Disconnect the neg terminal of battery. Remove the starter (easy...remove 2 wires and 2 bolts). Unscrew tube to cylinder. Remove 2 bolts. Slide out cylinder. Installation is the reverse if removal, except you should bleed the system before you reinstall the starter. This makes it easier.

Bleeding--Easiest way is to get a pressure bleeder (about $45). Next is a vacuum brake bleeder. You can also do it the old fashioned way like on brakes where person 1 is under the car cracking the bleed valve, person 2 in car is depressing the pedal, then person 1 closes the bleed valve. The pedal won't come up so person 2 must manually pull it up. Do not run the reservoir dry or else you'll be bleeding the brake system too.

Some people say to change the plastic hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder tube, but I found it not to be necessary. It would be a good idea (and cheap) though since you have the system apart anyway.

This will take you about 2 1/2 hours and each cylinder costs about $50 from a mail-order parts place.

A shop shouldn't charge you more than 2 hours of labor. If they do then ask them why. If the answer is BS then go to another shop. This is a tough proposition considering you have no clutch. Just go in knowing what is involved and what the BS line is. If they only change one cylinder then they should charge you 1 to 1 1/2 hours. This isn't a tough job.

Parts are another thing. They will charge you full retail for the parts which is (I'm guessing) around $100 per cylinder.

Let's see...($50/hour labor X 2 hours) + ($100/cylinder X 2 cylinders) = $300 plus brake fluid plus towing.

OR

$100 for 2 cylinders, a few runs to the hardware store and autoparts store for tools/parts you don't have, and 2 1/2 hours of your time. You can do this for less than half of taking it to a shop.

If you need any more info or clarification on this then e-mail me or post it here. Good luck.

[Jodi]

Well, got a call from the garage and you all were right on the money. It was the slave, and they also recomMended having the master changed at the same time. They are telling me it will be 2.8 hours labor but I am having a few other things done while it is there.

I was thinking of selling the car but I have put so much money in it over the last year that hopefully (fingers crossed) it will be good to go for a while. Thanks for all the advice.

[SoCal Driver]

I think about my "ROI" eveytime I take a corner a bit hard or feel the torq curve kick in. The ear to ear smile tells all.