Engine turns and immediately tries to fire and then just spins and floods engine.

[whiteSC59]

How does a non mechanic check for fire? (I dont have a timing gun or test light but do have a volt ohm meter) My theory is tune up so ...

Can I use the autolite plugs found and recommended at any advanced auto parts or like store in an 84 Euro engine or are there other good cheap plugs for the car that you might recommend??? also sourcing plug wires that arent crazy high or how can i check my plug wires with an ohm meter to see if theyre still okay?

Car is Euro 928 with dual dist. Thanks for the help.

[Barbapapa]

Remove a plug wire, insert an old plug and let it rest on a ground surface, you'll see fire if it has it. you can aslo use a screw driver if it rests close to ground but not touching.
If no fire then try the wire from the coil, that will help rule out the cap and rotor.
While you're doing that you can unplug the cold start valve to keep from flooding.
That's how you check for spark. Are you sure it's flooding? Are the plugs wet? Sometimes if the cold start valve isn't working it could act like that.

[rhjames]

Originally Posted by whiteSC59

How does a non mechanic check for fire? (I dont have a timing gun or test light but do have a volt ohm meter) My theory is tune up so ...

Can I use the autolite plugs found and recommended at any advanced auto parts or like store in an 84 Euro engine or are there other good cheap plugs for the car that you might recommend??? also sourcing plug wires that arent crazy high or how can i check my plug wires with an ohm meter to see if theyre still okay?

Car is Euro 928 with dual dist. Thanks for the help.

Yes to any spark plugs----spending huge amounts of money on plugs for a stock engine is fairly wasteful. I buy mine for less than $2 per plug.....just make sure they are properly gapped, cables firmly connected, and you're good to go. (do them one at a time......don't mix the cables up and goof up the firing order)

Plug cables are another story. they are fairly high priced.

B is correct, just pull a plug, reconnect it to the cable, rest the ground electrode on the engine (head, block, cam cover, etc) and turn over the engine. This works better at night, but usually you can see the spark jump from the center electrode to the ground in daylight----looks pretty neat at night though.....

using a timing light is another way to check fire down the cable.....

--R

[Danglerb]

I wouldn't use anything but Bosch copper plugs, and Beru wires. $50 will buy a decent inductive timing light, pretty hard to do without one.

[whiteSC59]

Okay, I kinda figured out the spark plug thing on my own. I actually just pulled a plug and put it back into the wire and laid it against the block for ground and turned it over and saw strong defined spark so Im guessing the problem is injector relay cause I can hear the fuel pump (usually after engine quits turning) and I can smell fuel in the freshly changed oil so Im getting fuel albeit wrong time. Which relay is the injector relay and can I jump it out to check it?? is it the same as anyother unnecesary relay I can swap it in there to check it?? any other suggestions here?? Thx again in advance

[Danglerb]

All of the injectors fire at the same time, and for the same duration, they are actually all wired together at the brain in parallel to each other. A couple ways to end up with too much fuel are;

Bad injector stuck on.
Bad LH brain stuck on.
Bad sensor input to the brain telling it to run richer than it should.

Too much fuel in the engine can cause some serious trouble, so I would approach this with caution.

[whiteSC59]

Is there an OBD1 or like system on these cars to run diagnostics??

[Danglerb]

89+ has diagnostic ability builtin, can be added to the 87+ with a chip upgrade, and via Sharktuner with a aux box a limited version of diagnostics are possible on 85/86 cars. The rest of us are stuck for now reading voltages etc. directly from the sensors.

[whiteSC59]

Dangler,
How can I check for these?

Bad injector stuck on.
Bad LH brain stuck on.
Bad sensor input to the brain telling it to run richer than it should.

Im also wondering if there is WUR or anything that would keep car from starting after warming up? This has got to be electrical and Im getting closer. The car is at least starting when cold and been sitting for a long time. This morn it started first time and ran beautifully and after I turned engine off, it wouldnt restart and hasnt started since with several tries.

[whiteSC59]

I saw in someone elses 'no start' thread they found that injector relay was the culprit. where is injector relay located and how can it be tested if possible

[Danglerb]

Bad injector stuck open, check the fuel pressure it should stay up for about half an hour min.
Bad brain, swap with known good brain.
Bad sensor input, meter time, you have to use a probe and measure the voltages either at the sensor or at the brain, or both to be sure of the wiring.

No Wur except on CIS cars.
Fuel Injection relay bad means no fuel.

*** bad sensor, instead of testing you can also start replacing them, expensive, but popular with most mechanics.

[bjenkins]

temp II sensor?