Tension is correct when that metal corner is in-between that little notch. Here you can see mine is a little off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250974663.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250974693.jpg

ok, so its all back together now. im pretty sure the timing belt is good to go, its tight but i get about the same bend in it when i push on it like your picture.

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#1 is at tdc, cam marks line up perfect with the O/T mark, i only took the pic of the one cam because i put the cover on the other one before the radiator hoses because its real hard to put it on with the radiator hose there.

im just waiting for my dad to get home with some coolant to refill the radiator and stuff before i start her up, ill let you know how it goes

Looks good. How about the rotor in the distributor?

oh yeah, i forgot about that...

i just checked it, its perfect, pointing right at the timing mark for the #1 wire. i didnt take a picture but its perfect.

sorry my camera sucks at close ups, in the last pi, the timing mark is right on just so you know...

I don't see setting the tension by thumb pressure as something you will look back on as wise.

Do you know about bleeding the cooling system? The block?

hmmm... where can i get one of those tools from?

i made the attempt to start. it does the same thing. it waill start and run for about 1.798 seconds then die and the exhaust is black smoke.

its obviously burning rich, so i think its not getting enough air. could vacuume lines cause that? or is there an adjsutment on the throttle body i may have changed accidentaly? could my MAF be bad? is there any relays or fuses that would affect anything?

it will start and run for a second or two then die and the more i try the shorter it wll run for unless i wait a bit then it will run for a second or two again. if i floor the gas whe it first starts it doesnt really help but i can get it to barely run for a few more seconds

no, will that affect how it runs? i plan on once i get it running again to bleed and refill EVERYTHING brakes power steering tranny oil coolant everything.

I have never bled my cooling system, at least maybe I did it but didn't know I did. For the record, that would never affect how it runs. At least for it's initial runs anyways, like what you are doing now.

Remember, you have to prove to us that the marks are all lined up.

Anyways, your A/F is probably way off and yes you could have a faulty MAF, but not sure if that would cause it from not starting. I did remember there was a write up somewhere that you could test that MAF. Anyone know?

Look, read and follow the directions I have given you and the links that have been provided. Bleeding the cooling system is covered and very important. No, it will not affect the way your car runs but, It will affect if you want it to run tomorrow. (like tensioning the belt properly)

It really sounds to me like your thermo time temp is bad. I only know this because I had the same problem recently. My phone number is 719-344-1173. Call me after lunch tomorrow. (sunday) I will talk you through some troubleshooting. But, please don't disreagaurd any of this well educated (and in most cases well paid for) advice.

I'm a CIS guy and he has EFI, so I am a newbie from here on out (as long as his timing is on). vdubr also has EFI and has a point and seems like he has some valid info for you.

vdubr, what exactly is involved in Coolant bleeding? I just drained mine and am refilling today.

alright all, ive figured out my problem... i know its the problem cuz i got it to run good with no smoke today. so heres the deal, its not getting enough oxygen, hence the black smoke, i i thought to myself "self, what could cause this?" i figured that if theres not enough air getting to it, something was blocking the air, a valvce or something, the only things blocking the air from the filter is the air flow sensor and the throttle butterfly valve. so had my uncle look under the airfilter as i tried to start the car and we noticed the sensor was not opening up. that means not enough air to the engine. he took a screw driver and when i tried to start it, he pushed the sensor open and it fired right up with no smoke and it ran good. when he let off of it, the car started to die and we got smoke again. so im thinking there isnt enough sucksion from the intake manifold to full the sensor open. so im thinking i have a major vacuum leak somewhere. my cousin put his head down there and heard it leaking somewhere on the passenger side of the engine. so tomorrow im going to go over my lines again one by one and make sure they are all sealed real good. it ran real damn good though when he held it open, i cant wait to hear it when i get the timing light and distributer timed in real good. :)

let me know if you guys have any problems with my hypothesis

and once again, THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOOO MUCH for all your help. i really owe you guys. it was a real let down when i finally got it all put together and it still didnt run but i have some huge hopes now. I love you guys haha (in a non homo way)

p.s. i will take pics tomorrow of my timing again and mark the 2 teeth on the cams that the mark is in between so you guys can see it better.

where can i get the tesion check tool from?

and once i get it timed in and running good ill be bleeding all the fluids and replacing with fresh stuff

VDUBR928- sorry i didnt call you, i didnt get on here till just now.

Dude, we know where your coming from. It's all good.

Sorry guys, it was brought to my attention that my pic of the Tensioner Tool (Kempf) was misleading. I stand corrected.

The pic shows me putting the tool on the Timing Belt where it needs to be checked, notice I have no tension as of yet. You would then push up where my thumb is and proper tension will be when the corner of the tool falls within the notch. Hope this helps explain.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1250974663.jpg

okie dokie gentelmen, ive made a discovery today. i went looking for my vacuum leak and had my friend turn the key while i waited by the engine to see what happened. i put a screwdriver in the sensor again to keep the car running good while i tracked down the shshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshshsh h sound. i tracked it down to under the air box and i shown a flashlight down there and guess what i found! :eek: i saw some fuel squirting up from the very rear passenger side intake tube. im pretty sure that would also be my vacuum leak and thats where the noise is coming from. so i started the process of removing the fuel rail and taking off that pipe to replace the gasket again, i might even put 2 in just to make sure its nice and tight. i should have it all fixed up tomorrow evening.

i dont know anymore... i fixed that intake tube problem, no more leak, but it still wont start. i can force it to run by holding the gas down but its kinda smoky when i revv it and when i try to bring it down to idle right before it dies. ill have to wait for someone to be able to come over to keep it running to see if i can hear a leak again somewhere else but i dont know. :(:(