Now what?

morriss · 10-16-2009, 05:36 PM

Well, I spent 2 hours on the car and got absolutely nothing done.

#1 The clutch slave cylinder doesn't want to collapse on the rod insert, so I can't get it back on.

#2 I can't figure out where to bolt the air pump delete to. I thought maybe onto the Porkensioner mounting bracket, but the old bolt (that went through the old tensioner and air pump delete and then onto the block) is too long. The new brass bolt (that cam with a brass sleeve) that came with the Porkensioner is too short. Where do mount it to? See pics below.

#3 I don't remember how the ps pump and alternator mount up either, much less which belt (fan, AC, ps, alternator) goes on in which order. I took pictures, but not enough.

I'm stuck..

[img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads15

/air+pump+delete+11255739767.jpg[/img]

morriss · 10-16-2009, 05:38 PM

oops.. the other pic too

Barbapapa · 10-16-2009, 06:29 PM

Are you sure this whole working on engines thing is for you?

Barbapapa · 10-16-2009, 06:31 PM

1-Open the bleeder valve.
2-A delete is referring to the lack of something, you ordered the wrong part.

Mrmerlin · 10-16-2009, 06:35 PM

spray some silicone onto the rod and it should slide back into place put grease on the end of the rod where it contacts the release arm

Dean_Fuller · 10-16-2009, 06:37 PM

I agree with Mike...looks like you have the wrong Porken bracket to be able to USE the air pump.

morriss · 10-16-2009, 07:45 PM

Are you sure this whole working on engines thing is for you?

No, but I'm going to try and learn anyway.

We've all got to start somewhere, right.

Topic #1. I HAVE the delete, I don't have an air pump.

Topic #2. I figured out why I was having such a hard time getting the ps pump and alternator mounted back up; the PO had rigged the set up. I was looking at the manual / PET while going on with them, and then checking myself against the pictures I took before I began. They did not match up. That is what has been throwing me off. Apparently the PO had stripped a bolt hole into the block, so the alternator mounting bracket would not mount the way it is supposed to. He rigged it so that everything would still fit tight, but it definitely wasn't the stock set-up.

So, is it possible to re-thread the hole into the block? In the picture below, follow the brass mounting bracket all the way up to the empty hole. That is the one that is stripped.

and then the brass screw and sleeve I removed from the Prknsr mounting bracket (because it looks like the air pump delete would bolt up there).

morriss · 10-16-2009, 08:19 PM

1-Open the bleeder valve.

Yeah, that was my first thought, but none of the how-to manuals I have spread out right now (2 different wp change write-ups and 2 different Porkensioner write ups) said anything about having to bleed it. I figured I'd better ask before I did something I wasn't supposed to.

EIPtuningR32 · EIPtuningR32's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barbapapa

Are you sure this whole working on engines thing is for you?

hey man, ...................... *snarl*

EIPtuningR32 · EIPtuningR32's Garage

where did you get the air pump "delete"?

Xlot · 01:05 AM

Ok.. what is the airpump delete you're talking about?

Is it a pulley that bolts on instead of the airpump, and allows you to use the same length fan belt (if I recall correctly, 82 has a belt that drives both air pump and radiator fan clutch?).

From memory, the airpump delete version of the Porkensioner has no bracket for anything in the airpump spot, including the pulley (I have the airpump version of the Porkension'r, although neither of my 928's has an airpump).

Might need to replace your "airpump delete" with a shorter belt? 21 inch is the correct size to just drive the fan directly.

Or I could be totally off base here, in which case I'm speaking nonsense - quite possible, as I'm in Australia

Edit: Just checked back and after writing this, your second pic actually makes some sense - it is a pulley. Lose it, get the shorter belt, and carry on with your Porkension'r install!

morriss · 10-17-2009, 05:21 AM

Thanks XLOT, I think you are right about the shorter belt and not needing the delete pulley.
Looking back on the original post, I see that I was just mostly venting my frustration over the the whole ps / alt. debacle caused by the PO's rigged set-up.. I was so frustrated last night I couldn't think straight; in fact I didn't WANT to try to think because my mind was so boggled up. And then I just got pissed when I found out he had stripped the bolt hole, which only made things worse.
But today is a new day and I've got a much better attitude.
What I still need to know, though, is can I re-thread that bolt hole into the block so I can attach the alt. mounting bracket?

Mrmerlin · 10-17-2009, 05:57 AM

the part that you say need rethreading is not part of the block you can probably get a used part to replace the stripped one, unless I am missing something.

Barbapapa · 10-17-2009, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

the part that you say need rethreading is not part of the block you can probably get a used part to replace the stripped one, unless I am missing something.

Isn't he talking about the threaded hole in the block inside of the steel bracket? The bolt for the alternator bracket passes through that.

Morris, if the threads are indeed stripped you have some options.
Installing a helocoil would be the proper fix but it takes a steady hand and enough room to drill and tap it straightly.
If the tapped hole is deep enough you could cut a longer screw to take advantage of all the threads. That would be somewhat jury rigged in theory but an easy fix.

morriss · 10-17-2009, 07:26 PM

It's ALIVE!! ALIVE!! I've been driving it around for the past hour.

Merlin- It IS attached; it's part of the oil pan. I re-threaded it this morning and bolted the alt. up and all is good. I then went and found a 21 inch belt (it's a green LAWNMOWER belt!! I called Roger and he said that's the one to get; everyone he knows that has a Porkensioner runs it with no problem). Thanks for the heads-up on this XLOT. I have everything back on and the car is running. I left the belt covers off for now in order to make sure everything is okay. I cranked it up and made sure the belt , wp, and tensioner were working as they are supposed too.
After finishing adding the coolant, I just watched for a couple of minutes. My 5 year old son was so excited he couldn't wait to ride in it. So we did. "Porsche power! Porsche power!" he kept saying as we left the neighborhood. So of course I had to brake the rear wheels loose and fish-tail as we pulled out. We power slid for 50 yards or so, which is very easy to control in a 928. "This is the best time ever, Dad," he said. Today was a much better day than yesterday.

Niles · Niles's Garage

I just went back and looked at your old posts because I wanted to see some photos of your car. Have you done any cosmetic repairs of the exterior? Is it looking better? Anyone that's curious or had forgotten like me go Here. We are looking forward to seeing updated photos. Keep up the good work.

morriss · 10-18-2009, 05:46 AM

Nope, no cosmetic work has been done yet. Too many other things have taken precedence. Next on the short list is the steering rack (small leak) and ball joints (current ones are aluminum). Then HVAC repair. THEN the body work. I want to take my time looking for someone to do it; I don't want a $300 MAACO - style repair job.

Mrmerlin · 10-18-2009, 11:50 AM

Great shes running,

morriss · 10-19-2009, 06:41 PM

Thanks for the help everyone, especially putting up with me getting frustrated and asking stupid questions.

rhjames · rhjames's Garage

for air pump delete, get rid of the belt drive fan as well.

you are trying to eliminate the belt driven pcs on that belt, aren't you?

just eliminating the air pump gets rid of one pulley (about 10 hp), but if you eliminate the belt altogether, you get rid of two pulleys (20 hp).

besides, you're hydraulic fan drive is probably toast anyway.....most of them are by this time in history.

--R