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How do you disconnect the 14pin connector

I love Landseer's ground cleaning post! Thanks!
My question is how do you unplug the 14 pin connector with out breaking the 31 year old plastic part???
I just dont want to start pulling, is there a secret hand shake?
The photo is from Landseer's post.


Old 05-19-2011, 06:46 PM
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Mine just came up and off. You may have to wedge a flat-head screwdriver in there to pry the top from the bottom. Or you can spray with a penetrating oil to loosen it up some before you go and destroy it.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:51 PM
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Question 14 pin

If I may,why do u feel u need to open and check that? should i check mine...for? is that a problem area even if it "looks" ok? yours looks just like mine is why i ask,but minus the rusty look...lol
Old 05-19-2011, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts4porsche View Post
If I may,why do u feel u need to open and check that? should i check mine...for? is that a problem area even if it "looks" ok? yours looks just like mine is why i ask,but minus the rusty look...lol

You should open it to inspect it. You may find rotten wiring inside, corroded pins, etc. If problems are found, they should be repaired immediately to prevent failures in the future, and also to return the circuitry and the car to it's proper running condition.
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:53 PM
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nice! thanks,just looking at the wires running into it,they are visually ok,will check it out asap!I still havnt gotn around to replacing my ign. switch either,weather sucks here! rain and rain!
Old 05-19-2011, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts4porsche View Post
nice! thanks,just looking at the wires running into it,they are visually ok,will check it out asap!I still havnt gotn around to replacing my ign. switch either,weather sucks here! rain and rain!

I've been wanting to replace my ignition switch, too. The accessories position wasn't routing juice to my stereo. Today, it works fine.



I likely have a wiring issue instead of a bad switch, because the stereo will turn on when the alternator is spinning, and will stay on after the ignition is killed, and this is in the accessories position, so that says the stereo is getting power in that position, but not until after I go past it to crank, then return to it. It will not feed juice just by switching to the position, I have to go past it.

But today, it worked fine.

I guess I should pull the console panels again and put my meter to use and verify voltages from the switch.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:15 PM
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my stereo works fine too,so does all the int. stuff but no crank unless i jump the coil and put fuel in the intake,not sure thats my ing. switch but thats what im told on here.no clue,but all you guys know your stuff so im going that route,dont want to, but i will check other things first before i go through all that BS!
Old 05-19-2011, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts4porsche View Post
my stereo works fine too,so does all the int. stuff but no crank unless i jump the coil and put fuel in the intake,not sure thats my ing. switch but thats what im told on here.no clue,but all you guys know your stuff so im going that route,dont want to, but i will check other things first before i go through all that BS!

Yeah, you should verify voltages at the ends of the circuits before you replace the switch.

You can verify most of the voltages at the computer connector.

Wait, I remember your problem: you REFUSED to write up a detailed list of what happens and when it happens. You should do that. We could help you a lot more if you'd write a precise description of what you were doing before the problem started, what the symptoms are EXACTLY, and what you've done so far.

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Old 05-19-2011, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts4porsche View Post
my stereo works fine too,so does all the int. stuff but no crank unless i jump the coil and put fuel in the intake,not sure thats my ing. switch but thats what im told on here.no clue,but all you guys know your stuff so im going that route,dont want to, but i will check other things first before i go through all that BS!
You keep saying "jump the coil". What the hell does that mean? What coil? A relay coil? Your actual ignition coil? If so, how do you jump an ignition coil, and why would that affect cranking (which is not the same meaning as "starting"). [You crank the engine over until it finally starts.] What is yours doing without jumping anything?
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:48 PM
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the starter wire power passes through the 14 pin connector simply pull the top half off this will disconnect the connector from the lower half dont use any metal to pry it apart unless the battery is disconnected.
Then with an eraser clean off the pins and
then you can pry the top half of the rear of the cover off,
this will expose the wires inside,
inspect it carefully as the insulation or a wire may have broken off one of the pins.
When you refit the connector also fit a hot post cover so it wont get wet when it rains as it has power going through it when the battery is connected this will start the corrosion
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:54 PM
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i did list in detail what it was doing,noone replied back from that same link.......and yes jump the ign. coil from the battery,pos. to pos. and it cranks over with gas poured into the intake it runs untill the gas poured in runs out.if i dont jump the "coil" there is nothing but all electrical things come on inside the car...headlights,radio,mirrors,windows,ect.
Old 05-19-2011, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts4porsche View Post
i did list in detail what it was doing,noone replied back from that same link.......and yes jump the ign. coil from the battery,pos. to pos. and it cranks over with gas poured into the intake it runs untill the gas poured in runs out.if i dont jump the "coil" there is nothing but all electrical things come on inside the car...headlights,radio,mirrors,windows,ect.

So you have to put the key to "run", jump 12 volts to the positive side of the coil, pour fuel into the intake, somehow the engine "cranks", then starts from the fuel you poured in, and runs until the fuel runs out.

Sounds like your ignition switch is bad. There should be a disconnect in the wiring between the switch and the coil to verify voltage.

But it sounds like you've found multiple ways to get the car to run without the ignition switch, multiple workarounds for a bad switch.

Are you saying the engine will crank over with the key in crank, it just won't start unless you pour in fuel and jump 12 volts to the coil?

The cranking part is still confusing me. It sounds like you are trying to say that jumping 12 volts to the coil causes the engine to crank over, start and run.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuts4porsche View Post
i did list in detail what it was doing,noone replied back from that same link.......and yes jump the ign. coil from the battery,pos. to pos. and it cranks over with gas poured into the intake it runs untill the gas poured in runs out.if i dont jump the "coil" there is nothing but all electrical things come on inside the car...headlights,radio,mirrors,windows,ect.
2 simple things to check out :
You might check out the Ignition Ballasts on the fender well just opposite the distributor . 2 of them . Try a jumper on them and see if it starts .
Your Problem sounds like that or the Injector Relay on the panel Passenger side footwell. As It sounds like the injectors are not getting fuel or your not getting Power to the Ing.
Finaly
If nothing their then check out the cold start injector .
Old 05-19-2011, 11:15 PM
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i was told when i bought the car,the injectors are not pulsing to ground? the guy had no idea. i will check out the above first and then the switch, thanks all! Jeff
Old 05-20-2011, 06:37 AM
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Did you get the 14 pin connector apart?

Grab, pull and wiggle, the two halves unplug in the middle.

Then, battery disconnected, carefully using a pair of thin flathead screwdrivers, you can pry the thin backing plates of both halves. The terminals will then be free for removal, still attached to the wires they are soldered to.
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Old 05-20-2011, 07:01 AM
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14 pin

i havnt yet,its a rainy day here,but is all passing soon,will mess with it a little later on today,sun is popn out now! thank you! Jeff
Old 05-20-2011, 07:42 AM
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Like I always say when messing with this plug.

1) Be careful since it's probably Brittle

2) Be careful since the wires "and" pins may come popping out.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:43 AM
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Well, the smart money says buy a new one before beginning.

Brittle for sure.
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:00 AM
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Hey nuts'...

Lets clear things up and get you running. Check and analyze before cleaning.
When you say "jump" do you mean jump the solenoid coil on the Starter and it cranks, firing up with fuel down 'her throat?

Clean looking is deceptive in regards to the 14 Pin. As the "team" suggests check the wires and pins, then clean...Disconnect the BAT then, Start by Only prying the top cap off the connector, exposing the pins top inside the top half of the connector block. Once off do a continuity check of the wires at PIN 14 (14 PIN connec.)the big Yellow goes to the Starter post 50 also PIN 10 (14 PIN conn.) goes to the Starter post 16. Both of these need to show continuity. Mine looked fine above but wires deep down the top harness were degraded causing a Start issue similar to yours. Also, get a hot post and 14 pin/TIU cover, to keep water out of the harness.

Have you checked for Fuel Pump and if not CIS your injector relays...low odds here I believe.
The Ballast may be fine but Start one is 4 ohms and 6 ohms for the Run one...your car ran with fuel in throat, right so they maybe fine.

Still could be the ig switch...check it after the continuity...
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:29 AM
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I just checked that connector on my 928 the other day. Figured out the pull straight up part to expose pins. Came apart easy no prying, pins were corrosion free, just some road grime. Need small driver to pry cover to expose wires, without destroying in the process...

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Old 05-20-2011, 09:53 AM
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