You are absolutely 100% correct. I don't pay for things that I can do myself either, but then, I don't have access to a $10,000 piece of equipment to clean and flow test injectors either. You CAN reasonably clean your injectors at home, I personally just wouldn't hit them on concrete as part of the process.

And BTW, I have used Cruzin Performance to clean injectors for my cars before and I was very happy with the results.

I can rig up a system that will flow fuel through them, so i dont need that 10k piece of equipment. Haha

I didnt mean "Hit" them on the concrete. I meant lightly tap on them.. Going through a pothole is harder on them than tapping them on the concrete, so it is obvious that they can handle it.

No benefit from 'tapping' the injectors. If they are gummed or clogged chemicals can clean them.

Injector places often force chemicals at pressure through the injectors while pulsing them. They can also submerge them in ultrasonic cleaning chambers to loosen any crud/varnish/etc.

YMMV however if 120 bucks on putting a dent in your repair budget look out .. And good luck getting replacement pintles and other assorted parts for the injectors.

Oh, But you see, Tapping them LIGHTLY on the concrete makes more **** come out of them, hence cllearing the screens out.

I can force chemicals into them too. I can also put them into a cleaning chamber (A can) to losen stuff.

120 isnt putting a dent in my budget, but i choose to spent my money on things that are broken, not something i can do myself. Its a common sense thing.

given that theres one set of inj per car for its lifetime. in the event or for good measure best to reflow pintle ,screen/reoring sm,lg /reline r30 hose pcs,clamps.... electrical side new connectors/wires , brittle broken, test noid light ea...... and all 30r fuel lines.... if one doesnt know the state , the risk is fire/losing your ride. going forward with complete confid if ex. a oring leaked or connector broke you wouldnt replace them all because youd know what condition its in.

fuel pump end cap tightens so far, there has to be 3 crush washers new as they have crushed worn thin theyll leak. take one to napa and get all 3 same size , critical is the washers id to slip over the threads,maybe bring the part . install correctly ? i can post pic? forget orientation to check valve/fitting/endcap.

vac lines once air box off tubes/lid strapes lid, disconnect pass hose two screws inside pulls the flapping out disconnect , inside flap connection is oring/ grease/ replace , now connections can be cleaned. now all the vac lines excessible run your hands under through spider , replacing proper size/length one at a time as you go , up from under spider/flapping end theres 4way vac tee . napa.. has vac line . chop a piece/szs each measure/ footage needed of each. *or buy prekitted. fuel pressure regulator inspect 2 under air box location and on pass side the fuel damper way down, insp its filter/carbon build up.

vac actuator under airbox location middle critical it operates correctly, short piece vac line arch loose renew. crazy maze of vac lines fuel lines replace them all. course through it all ask away when needed. links to link to writeups or pics or .....