Finally turned the key

[heritage2008]

928 New Owner looking for some help--again.

So after continuing my education into getting a 928 up and running I decided it was time to turn the key. Please read my previous posts as to what has been done so far to this 82 928. This is how it went.

Update--new plugs installed today---by the way they say that they are preset---sure they are but not consistently to 28--some were 40, 35 etc--never trust--double check.

So with 2 gallons fresh fuel in the tank I hit the key--is there a chance 2 gallons is not enough to cover the screen entirely--just thought of this.

Instant varooooooooooom for like 3 seconds--bummer.

Each time I hit the key it idles up to about 1000rpm and then comes right back down-will not stay started but ignites on first touch of key--right now

Sprayed starting fluid into intake after starting and made very little change.

No change--each time same thing. If you touch the gas it stumbles and dies. Is there a specific relay, valve, etc that would cause this. I know the vacuum line from Thermal Vac Valve is not hooked up-see previous post.

I must be getting gas from the new pump and filter and there seems to be spark or it wouldn't ignite the fuel. I can hear the intake sucking air because you hear the flap shut when it shuts down.

I have not been into the 14 pin connector, cleaned up rear side hidden ground, or hidden passenger front ground--dreading all 3.

The "green wire" yes it is actually green was slightly corroded behind the black connector side on 1 of the 2 wires. Wire was cut and female wire connectors to reconnect then covered with black liquid tape to insulate--not sure if this was a good idea but the wire looks like it is newer since it is pretty much solid green in color.

I ran it with Injector relay and fuel pump relay bridged in single and both at once so I feel confident that relays are not the problem.

I have read about ignition switches causing like symptoms but would like some "experienced help" from those experiencing like situations. I will get this on the road cause I want to hear it breath life through its pipes.

So feel free to fire away and when I get multiple ideas centered around the same "fix" I will get at it--kinda of draining but getting this far is rewarding.

I will see what is cooking with the 14 pin project and try to finish the 2 ground cleanups tomorrow hoping to eliminate 3 more issues.

I did record a video of the start-ups but don't know how to upload. Sounds like all cylinders are on board and I hear clicking like injectors are working

Thanks from walleyedave (Heading to Moffet, Quebec Saturday for some fishin

[Danglerb]

I forget which model you have, but sounds like it is starting via the cold start injector, and the main injectors aren't working. Check that with a noid light, but I suspect green wire may be the real issue.

[skippermccoy]

Put a peice of hose down the flapper in the air box hold ing the door open and see if that makes a difference. If it runs doing that start to look for vacuum leaks.

[Mrmerlin]

Order a hot post cover if you dont have one a part from an 88S4 will fit this will keep the 14 pin connector from getting wet and corroding,

check the ballast resistors on the right hand side fender well there are 2 of them,
they are both different and power the coil.
You might as well replace both of them, since it runs with the key in crank its getting fuel since it wont run with ether after you get it running then its a spark issue.


Make sure to replace the green wire.
Make sure to replace the green wire.
Make sure to replace the green wire.
Make sure to replace the green wire.
Make sure to replace the green wire,

OH Im sorry did I repeat myself?

Check the ignition coil wire connection at the coil and the cap if they are corroded then clean them.
report back after these things are done

[heritage2008]

Did the hose thing--no change.

Will hit the wires near the coil first thing.

Read that I should jump the pump and left system pressurize and check for leaks.

Injectors may be the cause since it has sat for 2-3 years with PO.

May pull plugs and use some fogging oil and let sit overnight--heck maybe a week
since I'll be fishing.

Will order the green wire tmro--putting my $$$ on this.

[heritage2008]

Looking at my second picture I was wondering if it is ok to remove the double nut wire post to move the brown and red wires out of the way to work on the 14 pin box. I don't recall seeing this type of connection before--looks like an AC device--weird.

[stepson]

Yes, it's okay.

Did you replace your green wire yet?

Injectors are probably gummed up as well.

[924CarreraGTP]

Put a little bit of Berryman's B12 chemtool in the fresh fuel. It will burst that gum out of the injectors before a cat can lick it's bum. Not too much. A cap full will do fine in two gallons. Too much and you melt your fuel lines.

[heritage2008]

Going to try to run it again today after new fuel and Techron had overnight to weep onto injectors. The green wire looks recent--maybe by PO or when they had it in for service. The connector on the other side of the green wire yellow connector had wires that were not 100%. I redid these wires--looked like it came out proper. Where does this other end go to--could it be a start issue?

Does it make since to pull all new plugs and do the fogging oil project or since I've been cranking it is it toooooo late?

Will get other 2 sets of grounds done somehow today and check ballast by coil--then see where it is.

Going to let pump run and pressurize system before turning the key today--crossing toes again.

Is the cold start a separate injector to pre load system? If all injectors were plugged I would think it would stubble some when fired--it sounds smooth with no jerking.

[heritage2008]

Went out and jumped the fuel pump and let it run for 5 minutes. Tried to start and idle came up more than yesterday but still died--almost there. New pump question. Should there be a brass o ring between the barrel end pipe and cap--seems like this is where it is leaking--I did put 1 on before screwing on exit end to filter?

I feel like I have a clogged injector problem and since I have a leak at new pump line it is not holding pressure. So I will R&R pump and try to fix leak--it is tight at cap end.

Should i let the pump just run top pressurize the system once leak is fixed at new pump? Won't this flood the engine if there are stuck injectors?

Not working on it till I find out more.

Still delaying on tearing tubes off and replacing all vacuum lines but I will probably end up doing this after fishing trip.

Is there a rubber gasket between air box control and intake hole--sorry need to learn proper terminology--still no CD manual in hand.

[MPDano]

If your questioning the Injectors, why not just pull them all out and have them serviced? I did that with my S right off the bat. I used Witch Hunters with awesome results.

[1982_928]

Or you could clean them yourself, because its $200 cheaper for you to shoot some carb cleaner in them and let them soak overnight. Mine was acting like yours, I pulled them, shot some Berrymans in them, let them soak for about an hour, Poured the crap out of them (Wouldn't hurt to tap the end of the injectors on some concrete to help the stuff out) I repeated this 2 more times, put them in, Started on the first turn of the key..

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by 1982_928

Or you could clean them yourself, because its $200 cheaper for you to shoot some carb cleaner in them and let them soak overnight. Mine was acting like yours, I pulled them, shot some Berrymans in them, let them soak for about an hour, Poured the crap out of them (Wouldn't hurt to tap the end of the injectors on some concrete to help the stuff out) I repeated this 2 more times, put them in, Started on the first turn of the key..

...from the Witch Hunter website:

Complete Cleaning & Flow Testing for only $21 per injector.
Includes before and after test data.

They also Flow Match them and verify they are working as they should, plus you get a printout of them and they mark them for you. For me, the $168 was well worth it. I didn't have to question this part of the 928, I knew it had to be something else, etc.

[stepson]

Originally Posted by 1982_928

Or you could clean them yourself, because its $200 cheaper for you to shoot some carb cleaner in them and let them soak overnight. Mine was acting like yours, I pulled them, shot some Berrymans in them, let them soak for about an hour, Poured the crap out of them (Wouldn't hurt to tap the end of the injectors on some concrete to help the stuff out) I repeated this 2 more times, put them in, Started on the first turn of the key..

I don't really think that I would tap them on the concrete, but you can use a Mityvac and place a vacuum on the supply end and power the injector with a battery charger. I have a jig that I made so that I can submerse the injector while I power it on and off. When the MItyvac begins to lose pressure, and the Berryman's is flowing backward through the injector, it is ungummed.

[heritage2008]

Looks like when I get back from Quebec I'll be sending off injectors.

While they are out I will soak cylinders, replace all fuel lines and vacuum hoses.

Replace thermo valve and recheck everything else.

Guess I bit off more than I thought.

So can someone send me a link to perform these tasks properly.

[MPDano]

WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

[1982_928]

Alright, whatever... I can flow test a injector on the bench for free. $21 an injector seems like a lot for what they do. That $168 could have gone and fixed something that needed replacing.

I'm not really into paying people a lot of money for doing something i can do in 20 minutes, and you would think that other people would too.. Just think about it. If it takes that person who is cleaning them 1 hour to have them done, you just paid them $168/hour pay. Maybe i should get into that business. Then i could buy anything i wanted.

[heritage2008]

Hey I just read back on my thread and yes, I should be able to R&R the injectors and clean them up. Thanks for the info on how to do it. I still will probably do the vacuum lines cause I know some are toast-probably fuel lines too--when I get back from fishing--need the time away.

I too like to save money but don't care for house fires much.

Mine is an 82 auto so if you have anymore details about getting this done--fire away--lol

[Danglerb]

To do it right you need a stockpile of each type of injector to make flow matched sets. This is critical for our cars because the injectors are batch fired, so 5% variation is changing the AFR for that cylinder, and the worst AFT cylinder is the one that will knock or detonate and restrict the tune on the rest of the motor.

Screens, pintels, and orings, are not cheap if you don't buy in quantity.

[MPDano]

Here is the readings before and after, plus all the parts they replaced on each injector. They got all mine with 2% of each other. Not sure you can adjust and get them to flow match by mashing them against the concrete













It really is up to you since it's your car. We are only giving advice that has been proven and tested. Rebuild yourself? Good luck on that.