Painting my '83 S

[Fixer]

Re sanded hood and prepping mirrors for paint. Odd that one has bronze paint under the factory finish. I emailed the original owner (Dr Steinhouse) who is still here in Philly. Steinhouse traded his '82 944 in on my '83 928 which had 31 miles on it. He said the mirror was never replaced or repaired.

[Fixer]

[bluemane500]

Originally Posted by The Fixer

You wouldn't say that if you saw the crud in the hood clear..should have hung it vertical. redoing in the next day or so. The front facia is beautiful, it was very dull before.

Basecoat - clearcoat systems are very easy and forgiving, you could do it.

Try the hood i'll bet it turns out great. I'll walk you thru it step by step if you want.

You can order gloss black very cheap online, black is black.

BTW, I'm painting with the cheapest Chinese Devilbiss (startingline model) HVLP gun $100 on ebay new. It's not a Sata but it does the job fine.

Go for it and try painting the hood but remove it and mark hinge location to hood.

You can practice on an old fender first.

hey fixer,,the pattern you are seeing on the hood is striping,,,your starting line gun is not spraying evenly or you are arking your gun incorrectly,most likely it is your gun though,horizontal painting is much different than a vertical surface,,,,you should practice on and old hood first,,,,the striping is caused by a heavier flow of paint hitting the surface in that area,,a slight adjustment of your wrist could correct that if your gun is spraying evenly,,,keep your spray pattern even,,,the gun has to travel across the area to be painted evenly,,you may even have a dirty cap,,,test panels will show your spray pattern

[Fixer]

Thanks,

I clean the gun well between every stage with solvent, i just should have done a pattern evening coat, i just zoned on it (fumes).

After 3 wet coats i would allow it to flash completely 15-20 mins, tack it off and then hold the gun another 4-5 inches or so away and hit it with a less wet coat and a few more pounds to even the pattern out.

I just forgot to.

[laneyamps]

Looks beautiful, Fixer! Great work!

[Fixer]

Re painting the front fenders sanded them very well taking down the clear almost to base. I didn't like the metallic orientation on the tops of the fenders, it wasn't a striping as someone mentioned but rather too much metallic flake when compared to the rest. I will prime and re paint the hood (2nd attempt) and the mirrors Monday hopefully. I wasn't going to reuse the mirrors but aero mirrors aren't in the budget right now. The front and rear facias look beautiful, the rear quarter and doors look great, roof looks good. I am getting to the end hopefully. I started taking the car apart in mid to late August and need to get back to work and other stuff very soon. I will get additional photos as i have them. Thanks Laneyamps and nice 928 u have there.

[Dean_Fuller]

Looking great! I know thats a lot of work. I too like the clean, non spoiler look.

[Mrmerlin]

putting this much paint on your hood and fenders will make it fail after it sits in the sun for a while.
I suggest to strip to bare aluminum and alodine then zinc chromate then epoxy coat then paint do the fenders and hood at the same time wet the floor to keep down dust

[Fixer]

Its not nearly that much paint at all. You need a lot of paint for there to be a problem.


IMO, No primer or base is better than the Porsche factory Primer Bath regardless of its age, so long as it is in good condition.

There is no need to take it down to the aluminum, wouldn't hurt, but no need.

You are right about the water but i hate walking thru it, my boss never cleaned he would just crack the hose each time. i am using a little water (see photos) but not much. Thanks for the help.

[Fixer]

Will get some photos up soon, doing the hood and mirrors.
I took the mirrors apart, interesting how simple and light the auto mechanism is.
Fenders looking very nice, the paint pattern problem was my regulator, all good now.
But you are never satisfied, you always think it could be better.

[Illini-heel]

Looks good.

Fixer are you taking dry film thickness measurements? FYI, OEM automakers do not send out product with greater than 12 mils (~300 microns). Once you exceed that thickness, bad things begin to happen (most importantly micro-fissuring under body flexion).

MrMerlin: Alodine is a Henkel trademark for pre-treatment products. Most create a conversion coating, so there is no need for the zinc-chromate (it won't do anything as the Al free ions are buffered).

Fixer is correct in that if the e-coat has not been comprimised, don't touch it. "Breaking paint" (i.e. going down to bare metal on a repair) is verbotten in the auto industry.

[bluemane500]

Originally Posted by Illini-heel

Looks good.

Fixer are you taking dry film thickness measurements? FYI, OEM automakers do not send out product with greater than 12 mils (~300 microns). Once you exceed that thickness, bad things begin to happen (most importantly micro-fissuring under body flexion).

MrMerlin: Alodine is a Henkel trademark for pre-treatment products. Most create a conversion coating, so there is no need for the zinc-chromate (it won't do anything as the Al free ions are buffered).

Fixer is correct in that if the e-coat has not been comprimised, don't touch it. "Breaking paint" (i.e. going down to bare metal on a repair) is verbotten in the auto industry.

another country heard from,,,lol i hate when i have to look up words......fyi illini starting at the bottom is the only way to insure longevity,chromated epoxy will withstand the test of time,,,,,where did you get such information,,,lol when you take a car from the seventies it is best to strip it to the bare metal,,,,most paints of the seventies are reverse substrates to paints available now,,,therefor they should come off,,,,sealers can work for a limited time but eventually the finish will fail,,,,,merlin was trying to give his text book answers to help the fixer,,, who needs a little guidance as far as i can tell,,,but diy ers can do it any way they like Leavitt Street Auto Body

[bluemane500]

fixer,, good luck with your paint job,,,,,next time you should take off the door handles and the roof mldgs,,and try shooting the body at the same time,,,,you will achieve a better color match,,,everything will be consistent,,,high metallics will never be correct panel to panel,,,but it may be good enough for you,,,,regulators only regulate air pressure,,,even though your paint appeared to be in good condition its 29 years old,,,it should of come off to insure longevity of your new finish,,,every one is entitled to thier own opinion,,, mine comes from 35 yrs in the business ,,,i have done paint jobs over existing finishes,,,they are a temporary fix,,,paint manufactures wont give lifetime warranty with this type of refinishing,,,the difference in doing it correctly is about 15k,its not for everyone but it is priceless,,,,dont believe everything your paint store tells you,,,,,,hats off to you for the effort

[Fixer]

Took em off wrong pic, took the re prime down to a fine film, blocked between color coats, remember to untape w/in 10 minutes of final clear. I carefully got any build up at the panel edges down with 600 and 100 grit
Mils are fine.
Fixed spray problem, went like clockwork.
Thanks foe support.
Going to work.

[Fixer]

Paint..

[Fixer]

2 wet coat of clear

[Fixer]

untaped quickly to prevent peelling the finish at the wheel arch edge and in the engine bay/fender flange, Hood and mirrors tomorrow

[Fixer]

These 928s are all front end, i couldn't live with subtle flaws, glad now i fixed them.
Going to work.

[AirtekHVAC]

very nice......

[Fixer]

Going to take down doors and roof and re paint without the rails and door handles, this is going quicker than i thought