PPI-ing 964 on Monday - thoughts?

[dhc905]

Hey guys,

I'm a poster over on RL, but since you guys seem to be the aircooled experts, I figured it was worthwhile asking you guys your opinion about a car I'm taking into a PPI on Monday.

It's a 91 Cabriolet with 104K miles. Clean title. Car really pulls and is a blast to drive (it was also my first porsche driving experience). Couldn't see any rust in the common places (by the windsheild). But that's sort of where the good news ends

1. Cabrio top does not work - PO says that a motor/transmission failed and broke a rod.

2. Windshield has a relatively nasty crack at the bottom.

The interior is in rough shape (see pictures below). The exterior is also not showroom quality by any means.

Seller is asking 13K, but has intoned that he might come down.




















So assuming a relatively clean PPI (I'm also having a compression test done, PO says that when he did one 10 months ago when he bought it, it came back good with one cylinder slightly below the rest, but still within tolerance), will this be a good car to own? I'm not a tracker, or racer, but would absolutely love to own even a beat up copy of an epic car assuming it doesn't sink the ship from a financial or time perspective.

I've been warned about the DME and those problems, and I doubt a PPI will tell me whether that will be an issue, but I'm not against spending 5-10K to get this thing in consistant working order before spending money on cosmetic stuff.

So thoughts?

Thanks,

D

[Nine9six]

Have a comprehensive PPI performed on your nickel, and negotiate from there if you are truely interested in this car.

BTW, it seems priced low for the mileage, and if it took $2k to make right, that would be a VERY acceptable entrance fee, as long as the car checks out.

[Arrowhead]

It is very hard for me to give advise. If I could inspect it in person I could. You are going to have to go buy the PPI and your gut. From what I have experienced you will in the end most likely have at least $20k in the end after refurbishing. So with that said you may be better off spending $20k right off the bat for a better one. I know if I had to do it over again thats what I would have done.

[wilhit10]

Depends on what you want out of the car. If the motor needs a rebuild, walk away, not worth the money. If everything checks out and you want a driver with some flaws, fix the few things and buy it. If you want to restore it too perfect/or great condition, buy another one. The little things will add up quickly with this car.

Good news is the best deal in 964's are converts. There are a few out there. Good luck!

[TMc993]

Always buy the best car you can get for the money you have available. It is rare that buying a "fixer" turns out to be the most economical or fun route.

[dhc905]

So weird, I posted this last week and I think it just came through.

Anyway, PPI came back pretty positive, I think. Besides the issues I knew about pre-PPI, they identified some minor leaks in the timing chain covers, and a recommendation for a valve job (probably the $1,500 30k one). The clutch did pop out of 3rd a couple times during their test drive, but problem was resolved by pushing the gear firmly into 3rd.

New brakes, rotors, and 1% brake fluid contaimination.

Steering rack is not leaking.

Heat works, Compressor is disconnected. Assumes its toast.

Windshield wipers weren't operative. Wrench couldn't hear the motor turning, says it could be anything from a fuse to a new motor and rod.

Surprisingly, power seats all work except driver side up/down. Power windows operative except driver side, no noise from motor when switch is activated, wrench thinks its probably the switch, not the internals given his experience.

Airbag fault code (spiral spring diagnosis), a bunch of blowers (including the oil cooler blower motor, which actually concerns me. The others are all random blowers (e.g. Rear blower temp sensor, defrost flap motor, inside sensor blower).

But that's it. The car pulls strong and drives like a dream. I figure its going to be an amazing car to own and slowly restore as time, money, and needs demand.

Pending smog, I'm committed to buy this.

[hrscrk]

is it too late to add my 2 cents worth or did u do the deal?

[dhc905]

Yeah I went ahead and pulled the trigger. Now that I've driven it around some, think it was an absolutely great idea. I have a good idea of where I'm going with the restoration (front bumper, hood for exterior), for the interior I'm going to make sure there's some tasteful brushed aluminum and I kind of dig the idea of replacing the interior carpets with a beige or sand color.

That said, I can't get the darn passenger side door to open, which is step one in my restoration process.

Both the interior and exterior actuators (the circle thing, and the key hole, respectively) cannot open the door. They both feel "stuck", with the unlock "pin" remaining in the down position, but moving slightly when I put some force on the actuators.

Last night, I tried a variety of things including putting the key in the keyhole turning and pressing the handle. The handle, when no key is in the key hole, is limp (i.e. not catching anything). When I turned the key about 45 degrees and pressed the handle, it caught something and would pull all the way, but the door would not unlock and the "pin" would barely move. Sometimes it would go halfway and almost feel like it slipped.

My first inclination is to remove the panel, but that's I believe impossible without first having the door opened. So I'm kind of in a catch-22 unless someone here's got a better idea than taking to a locksmith or something...