removing 996 transmission

[Driver Ed]

I'm part way through the job of replacing the IMS and clutch in my 2000 996 and I am stuck. I'm following the helpful removing your 996 transmission tech article Specifically, I am unbolting the transmission from engine and can't figure out how to remove bolt #1 way up at the top of the bell housing:

There's not enough room for my 1/2" drive breaker bar, not enough leverage with my 3/8" drive breaker bar, and I can't budge it with the regular ratchet. Is there some special tool/trick/chemical/incantation to get this bolt out?

[ltusler]

Drop the rear trans mount and let the engine drop on to the cross member. Then use 2' of extensions putting the ratchet near the tail of the trans.

[Driver Ed]

Originally Posted by ltusler

Drop the rear trans mount and let the engine drop on to the cross member. Then use 2' of extensions putting the ratchet near the tail of the trans.

Aha! That sounds like it might work - I'm going to try it right now. Thanks!

[FPB111]

Sir Tools has a support bar, P 254, that makes trans removal easier.
see this post on Rennlist
Got to use my new P 254 Engine Support Bar for the 996 yesterday - Rennlist Discussion Forums

looks like these guys have them:
http://www.***************/996-engine-support-bar-for-porsche.html

[Driver Ed]

Just wanted to follow up to note that yes, indeed, getting that last bolt removed required tilting the engine+transmission assembly down a bit, removing all of the transmission brackets toward the front of the car and then using a 24" extension. Happy ending (so far).

[FPB111]

Excellent, when you are reassembling trans to engine remember to put the short bolts back in the correct spot. If you torque a long bolt in the wrong place you can crack the threaded boss on the engine or even worse break out the dead end of a threaded hole with the piece ending up in the cam chains.

[Driver Ed]

Fortunately, it's not my first transmission removal, and I now know to look for different length bolts. I put each of the bolts into piece of cardboard labeled as the diagram above . It's a good point, though, and for those who might be reading this later:

1. M12 x 70
2. M12 x 100
3. M12 x 100
4. M10 (triple-square)
5. M10 x 45
6. M12 x 70
7. M12 x 70

Each of the M12 bolts needs a 16mm socket, the M10 x 45 needs a 13mm socket and the funny little triple-square bolt needs a 10mm triple-square.

[Jeff Alton]

For a support bar... Go buy a piece of angle iron that is wide enough to span the sway bar mount bolts. Mark and drill it for those holes and bolt it in. It will support then support the engine. We have made them for 996, GT3 etc. We have a different simple place we use to support a 986/987 engine with the gearbox out.

[FPB111]

Originally Posted by Jeff Alton

For a support bar... Go buy a piece of angle iron that is wide enough to span the sway bar mount bolts. Mark and drill it for those holes and bolt it in. It will support then support the engine. We have made them for 996, GT3 etc. We have a different simple place we use to support a 986/987 engine with the gearbox out.

~34" should span it.

[alabamatoy]

For those upper bolts you need a 16mm 1/2 inch drive swivel socket and several short or one very long extension.