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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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"Incorrect Purge Flow" -Durametric Fault code...
"P0441 Evaporative Emission System
"Incorrect Purge Flow Present" Does anyone know what that means? I have experienced two rough starts. Once just after filling the tank. (Hot restart) And once after sitting for maybe an hour. (warm restart) Sounds like some sort of 'vapor-lock' problem. Anyone BTDT?
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee. 
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10-24-2009, 11:43 AM
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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I did find this on rennlist
Quote:
I can't imagine how any of those faults could cause the rough starting. hmmm
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
Last edited by island911; 10-24-2009 at 12:20 PM.. |
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10-24-2009, 12:14 PM
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The fault is caused by you evap purge valve. the rough start is caused by fuel vapor going directly into the throttle body because the purge valve is stuck open.
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10-27-2009, 07:22 PM
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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Wow! Great first post. Thanks!
I'm amazed that the fumes could be so dense to give such a hard start, but that certainly does fit. Anyway, I'm now trying to locate the valve. There is this valve (shown in red) which is inline with the "carbon canister line" (yellow) ...which is mounted next to the throttle body, lower right.  And then there is this valve (blue) on the Carbon Canister (brown).  ..Does anyone know which it is?
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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10-28-2009, 05:14 PM
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Its your first pic the one in red.
it is not to hard to replace but you will need to lift the bank two ignition coil cover. driver side while looking at the engine |
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10-28-2009, 07:52 PM
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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Thanks!
__________________
Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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10-29-2009, 03:55 PM
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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Just to follow up...
In addition to removing the coil-pack cover, I found it best to unplug the injector leads. Also, there is a very nice quick-disconnect on the line at "A" (below) --press the white button to release..... which helps free up the line so that one can get the line separated at point "B" (below) --that was a PITA to get loose. 
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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11-13-2009, 05:45 PM
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yeah at the shop i just remove the part from the "b" hose in the car. A very big PITA!
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11-14-2009, 03:55 PM
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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If you have to do it again, definitely take it loose at 'A' first. -- My first attempt was to take it apart at 'B.' Even the hose-clamp was a PITA, as it had the clamp 'ears' on the backside.
With the back few injector leads off (and released at 'A') the whole mess can be flexed up and forward, where you can wrestle with the connection more easily. --I don't know why they put a hose clamp on that end.
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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11-15-2009, 03:17 PM
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Gumbus
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seabrook, TX
Posts: 1
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So did this fix your problem?
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03-28-2010, 07:07 AM
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,167
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Yep.
I took apart the valve, just for fun. It has a mesh filter in there, and a very small valve opening. What's more weird is that the design seems to be normally closed. ...so how in the world enough fumes made it to flood the intake manifold is beyond me. Anyway, the new valve, and zero issues.
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Everyone you meet knows something you don't. - - - and a whole bunch of crap that is wrong. Disclaimer: the above was 2¢ worth. More information is available as my professional opinion, which is provided for an exorbitant fee.
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03-29-2010, 11:23 AM
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What is the part number?
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02-28-2012, 10:36 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 32
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948-110-202-01
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02-29-2012, 04:35 AM
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Thanks.....got it and have it installed.....not too bad to install.....
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03-03-2012, 06:31 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
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Just did this replacement
I just did this replacement and I thought I would post a few tips. The clamp in the rear is a PITA to remove, especially if the clamp clips are rotated towards the back as mine were. What worked great for me was I disconnected the front hose, then pulled the assembly out a little further and used a pair of tin snips to cut the old tubing. This allowed me to pull the house out with the troublesome clamp and rotate it so that could get to the clips.
Just make sure that you have correct part. |
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03-11-2012, 09:03 AM
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1
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Need the hose #31
Hey gang,
I am in the process of replacing the vapor canister purge valve assembly. While trying to remove the existing one, the hose #31 (highlighted yellow) in the drawing above cracked. I cannot seem to find a part number for some reason. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction? 
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09-20-2016, 09:19 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 419
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I believe the part number for #31 is: 955-201-366-03
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09-22-2016, 08:13 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1
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I'm getting a P0441 from my 2006 Cayenne TT-S. And when I take off the fuel cap with the motor running I can hear a sucking sound. THen after I fill up the tank the truck does not want to start correctly till I the 4th attempt.
I'm getting different part numbers and would like for someone to verify the correct part for my 06 CTT- S model. Wondering if hte S means anything for this part? 94811020203 or Part #: 948-110-202-01-INT or 948 110 202 01 Anyone? 
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01-09-2017, 07:08 PM
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Purge valve for that one should be 948 110 202 03.
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01-12-2017, 07:25 AM
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Just had the same problem.
No start for three or four tries at the pumps after filling up. About $130 CDN for the part and .9 hours labor. Replaced by the good people at Turn 3 Autosport.
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max |
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01-18-2017, 04:43 PM
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lufty
911 Twin Turbo
1978 Porsche 911
1980 /1997 Porsche 911 SC/ 993s 3.0 / 3.6
