Time to replace the Diverter valves 06 Turbo S

[dzlndan]

Just turned 67,000 miles, bought the car with 57,000 not sure if the diverter valves were ever change, no records. With some research I was told best to replace with the 710N. I did some searching and found a forum that had some tricks to the swap out. So I thought I would document my journey on Pelican (my favorite forum) The reason I changed them was because it seems like I'm losing boost and not sure why. Maybe the valves? It's not like the car doesn't run great, but it just doesn't seem like it has the umpf.. it used to. Plus maybe I'm going crazy but it seems like I can hear somewhat of a hissing sound when the needle hits full boost. It's kinda hard to tell if it is or just outside road noise, but I kind of think it is a leak in the system somewhere.

[dzlndan]

Pulled the car in the garage and locked the suspension so I could put the car up on the lift.

Decided to do the passenger side first since I was told that it is the easier one. Which it turn out to be. Pulled off the passenger front tire. Took out the screws on the front half of the inside wheel well to expose the pass side intercooler. The inside wheel well plastic is flexible enough even in 20 degree F to bend back and wedge open using the brake caliper to hold it back and out of the way.

[dzlndan]

Looking up at the intercooler you can easily see the shroud that surrounds the IC and there is a black clip(plastic lock) kind of like a file cabinet drawer latch. Pull away from the IC and the same at the one on the top and the shroud slides to the right about an inch and then comes off (real simple)

This is the black clip


This is the shroud


Once the shroud is out look at the clear view you have on the DV

[dzlndan]

Using the small clip pliers, it's off and on real quick. Reassemble and the pass side is done!

[dzlndan]

Driver side not quite as simple. But not frustrating. Pull the front under carriage cover off and the driver side little cover.



No need to take off the driver side tire.



Here with the covers off



The DV is tucked up in there

[dzlndan]

Start by taking off the lower hose from off the IC. I loosed the hose clamps with a flat tip screw driver but when I reinstalled I used a 1/4 drive and a 7mm socket. So much easier.



Be careful when you pull the large hose off. It will most likely have oil in it. Which is what I understand normal for dry sump engines. I used my HF hose pick and caught the oil with my trash can.

[dzlndan]

Here is what it looks like with the lower hose off.



Using my long reach hose clamp pliers



Take off the lower clamp first, then using a HF persuasion bar I think a 24".




Pry the hose off the DV.



Then I used my long reach pliers on the top clamp which is little tricky getting to. I left the pliers on while I pulled the old DV off and quickly put the new one on. This way I didn't have to try to get the pliers reset on the clamp. Which may have been a little hard. Pictures were hard to get being so tight but if you study them you can see the pliers on the clamp.

[dzlndan]

That's it! Job done! Probably took about an hour. I took it for a test ride. Seemed like it was better but I'll know more tomorrow I have a nice 50 mile ride.
I hope this helps anyone who needs to tackle this job

[dzlndan]

Yup that's what it was. Back to the good old days! When I drive I feel like I'm letting off the pedal more than I'm getting on it! Very lite on its feet. I love my CTTS!

Just for reference the part number was 06A145710N I paid 49.59 each from my local ma and pa parts guy, he treats me well. But I noticed that our sponsor has the parts and relatively the same price. ( I did not know that or I would have gotten here). You can also get the part at Audi, Vw or Porsche Stealerships but expect to pay double!