Porsche Cayenne Project: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[Wayne 962]

Anyone got any questions on the Project: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement for your Porsche Cayenne?

Here's a back link to the original article: Pelican Technical Article: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

-Wayne

[DSPTurtle]

This is on my calendar for this weekend. I'll try to post some pics of a 150k motor getting this treatment

[DSPTurtle]

I did this last weekend. No major issues other than some difficult to access fasteners.
One trick for the drivers side is to unplug the black cable running over the top of the valve cover and all the way down to the compressor. Trying to follow it initially was a pain but if you pull the airbox in that fender you can see exactly where it goes, how it is routed, and the orientation of the connector.
There are two torx fasteners that are difficult to get access to. I used a torx bit with a 1/4 open end wrench to get on them. On Monday I bought a set of super stubby 1/4" torx sockets from the snap on truck. Would have made the job a cinch.
There are a slew of vac hoses on the passenger side toward the back of the engine bay. Don't break them, they are brittle. If you do break one you will know cause the brakes won't work!
Getting the original gaskets out of the valve cover was a little tough due to how hard and brittle they were.
Make sure to order both the valve cover gasket and the smaller gasket that goes around the spark plug holes.
Other than those few little things, Wayne's tech article was spot on. This is a pretty easy job. And now that it's done my wife isn't complaining about a burning smell and there are no more oil drops on the ground.

[mkd944]

Originally Posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts

Anyone got any questions on the Project: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement for your Porsche Cayenne?

Here's a back link to the original article: Pelican Technical Article: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

-Wayne

Yes Wayne, I do have a question. I followed your write up for the left side gasket (great job btw) and was able to complete the job and thought "Ahhh, got the hard side done and the other side is supposed to be much easier". However, I am am stuck on the right side trying to figure out what is holding the wiring harness tight to the rear of the valve cover. I have removed the air pump but I cannot see what is holding the harness down. Any advice?

Thanks,
Mike

'93 911 C2
'05 Cayenne S

Previously:
'91 944S2 Coupe
'95 968 M030 Coupe (R.I.P.)
'02 Boxster S
'93 911 RS America
'88 944 Turbo S
'84 944
'77 924

[mkd944]

Nevermind. I figured it out. Little black screw hidden from view was the culprit.

It is easier to get the tools on the right side but there is a small wire bundle that runs over the top front of the valve cover down to someplace in the lower bowels of the engine where I could not reach. And with all the little zip ties holding all of the harnesses together, there was very little slack in that cable. I ended up cutting all of the zip ties to give myself more room and I snaked the valve cover out underneath all of the cabling. I am sure that there is probably a more efficient way to do this but I got the job accomplished and I replaced all of the zip ties. Also, a wire broke off of one of the fuel injector connectors. I went to the auto parts store and bought a connector pig tail and then spliced and soldered it to the existing wires.

I now know why this procedure costs so much as it is very labor intensive. I think I could do it faster next time around but it is definitely a PITA job.

Thanks,
Mike

'93 911 C2
'05 Cayenne S

Previously:
'91 944S2 Coupe
'95 968 M030 Coupe (R.I.P.)
'02 Boxster S
'93 911 RS America
'88 944 Turbo S
'84 944
'77 924

[seafeye]

I ordered the parts from Pelican and all was great. I would add that you should consider the following before doing this job.
Take off the bottom plastic trays, I dropped a bolt or two and it would be impossible to find them otherwise. While your under there, why not drain the oil and do a service. I changed the spark plugs, although they didn't look too bad. Maybe seemed like the vehicle runs a tad rich. May want to consider changing the serpentine belt while you have all the plastic bits off the car. You will need a 30mm wrench.
Also there is a seal (2) that you will need that if your going through all this trouble you may as well replace. Mine was hard and cracked like the valve gaskets, Because i didn't have a new one i put it back in. Here is the part number: 948-105-934-00-M100 You will need 2.

Not a difficult job but you will need some inner and outer torx bit sets. The lower passenger side rear bolt was a bugger to get in and out. No advice here. $)#%*$(##

[seafeye]

After valve cover has been removed.

[mkd944]

Originally Posted by seafeye

you will need some inner and outer torx bit sets. The lower passenger side rear bolt was a bugger to get in and out. No advice here. $)#%*$(##

I feel your pain. I stripped the head on one of the torx bits at the left rear and was finally able to get a flexible drill extension in place so that I could make a starter hole for an ez-out and after a couple of hours spread over a couple of days, I finally got the sucker out of there. Talk about happy and relieved. On the positive side, I was able to expand my tool collection with of lots of inner and outer torx bits, drill and socket extensions, etc.

Congrats on tackling the job.

Mike

[Dan951]

What kind of tool do I need to remove the torque arm bolt that connects to the engine? It looks like a "torx" but from my research it isn't. I believe its a multipurpose bit? If so what size do I need?

[seafeye]

Can't remember but I think it is a triple square. Or cheesehead bit.
Autozone sell a 4 pack that should work. I think I got a 7 socket piece set on eBay for $20