Price Check - 73.5 911T Sunroof Coupe

[DNJ]

Several years ago I purchased this 73.5 911T Sunroof Coupe from the original owner. I posted on here for feedback on what the value was as I was trying to decide whether to sell as is or mechanically restore and enjoy. It has been two years and other than cleaning the car up, etc. the car is still sitting in my garage. Therefore I am once again at that sell or keep crossroad.

I purchased the car from the estate of the original owner. The car shows 85K which I have no reason to believe is not accurate. The paint appears original but I do not have access to a paint meter to confirm. The paint buffed out quite nicely and other than small rust areas around the rear taillights the edge of the rear fender wells, and the rear tag panel, the car appears rust free. No rust in the floors, battery boxes, or other common areas. Unfortunately the garage where the car was stored for thirty plus years developed a leak and water leaked onto the rear tag panel and rusted it pretty badly. I removed it and confirmed that the rust was limited to that panel. I ground out the rust on the other spots (around taillights and fender wells) and the areas are small and easily reparable and the paint blended.

I have of course not attempted to start the car but the engine turns freely by hand. I hooked up power to test the electricals and all lights work as does the electric sunroof, original radio, and AC fan blower on all speeds. The original interior shows nicely. There is one split in the original leather seats (drivers side) which could easily be repaired. The dash is perfect as are all knobs/etc. The original carpets show well (the floor mats were sourced from another Early 911 and are a perfect match. The original headliner is soiled in some areas but in my mind just adds to the original patina of the car. The car comes with it's jack and complete original tool roll as well as original owners manuals/etc.

What would be a realistic expectation in today's market for this car as it sits today?

[NYNick]

I love every bit about the car except....it doesn't run. This absolutely KILLS the value. What could be a six figure car turns into a huge, potentially expensive question mark. We already know it needs everything, but the engine (and transmission?) could be toast too?

IDK. $35-40K?

[76dno]

The market is on fire right now for long hoods. Get it running, post driving video, take better pictures of underside, engine bay, and frunk - I say $70-120k depending on condition/amount of rust and previous accident repair.

[DNJ]

I understand and agree that the drivetrain is a big question mark. Supposedly the car was driven into the garage 30 years ago where it sat. At a minimum the engine will need resealed, CIS rebuilt, brakes, etc. However as I have learned from many throughout the Porsche community, this can be a huge variable. I have seen non-running rust bucket basket case 911T's being offered in the 30-40K range. I guess in the end, it is worth what someone is willing to pay.

[DNJ]

I agree that my best route is to get it running prior to selling. However, I have had difficulty finding someone capable of and willing to just "get it running".

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by DNJ

I agree that my best route is to get it running prior to selling. However, I have had difficulty finding someone capable of and willing to just "get it running".

Just getting it running is $5,000. If you’re going to do it, be sure to have reasonable expectations of what it costs and needs to be done.

I have no input in price. I don’t know what it’s worth.

[MichaelB]

I bought an early 1973T MFI non running one owner for $44,000. It was all documented original, with 22k miles.

I got it running & enjoyed it then sold it at Gooding. That may help with your value question yet my car had no rust, no aesthetic needs & no miles.

[Sunroof]

I own a 1973.5T and have had it over 20 years now. The going price for these cars is really what you can get for it! If you get the engine running you will gain 20-35K. Check out the Hagerty Evaluation Guide for good price guidance and note that you can add for AC, sunroof and manual 5-speed transmission.

You will PAY to have the engine or transmission rebuilt if needed. I just had my top end done on my 2.4L (pistons and cylinders) for over $12,000. Add another $10,000 for the bottom end if needed. Transmission rebuilds can run from $2,000 to $7,000 depending what it needs. Unfortunately, parts prices took a turn straight north over the past few years and now Porsches are very expensive to repair, especially our vintages. Your challenges now are the smaller details: Gas Tank (has to have internal, rust as it sat for so long), CIS fuel system components, brakes, clutch, etc. This presents major expenses and trying to find a reputable shop in your area. Tough choices ahead, but remember that once you get it running you may not want to give it up for awhile because they are a blast to drive and it will only increase in value.

They built so many "T's and their are just so many left. As a result the market is ebbing up and a well sorted 1973.5T can fetch over $90,000.

Beautiful color. Good luck.

Bob
73.5T

[Nick Triesch]

Why would it cost $5000!to get it started? Clean gas tank, flush out gas lines, squirt oil in cylinders, oil distributor and check for spark? We know motor is not Seized .

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by Nick Triesch

Why would it cost $5000!to get it started? Clean gas tank, flush out gas lines, squirt oil in cylinders, oil distributor and check for spark? We know motor is not Seized .

I think you mean fuel distributor? There’s just getting it running and then there is doing the job properly. Replace the gas tank if it sat with fuel in it. Replace the fuel lines. Rebuild the fuel distributor. New fuel filter. New oil and oil filter. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and adjust the valves. Do it once, do it right.

You know who gets top money? The guy who does it right. You know what cars sit? These ones that guys just getting running to sell it. That’s not repairing it. That’s just proof of life.

[Nick Triesch]

Ok, but what you said is not 5 grand

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by Nick Triesch

Ok, but what you said is not 5 grand

No, you misunderstood what I was saying. Like he said, nobody wants to “just get it running”. I was playing with those words and agreeing with the shops. Guy walks in and says “just get it running”. Then it snowballs. Suddenly the shop is the villain because they didn’t educate the customer. This car is a rabbit hole…

[Nick Triesch]

Got it.

[Sunroof]

On the gas tank.....the 1973.5T gas tank is one of a kind and the only way to replace it is with a new CIS tank. Their are no 1973.5T tanks that are new and for sale, unless I am missing something! The problem here is you can replace the tank with a newer CIS tank but loose using the large spare tire and have to opt for the tire saver spare and reconfigure the gas lines (out and return). BEWARE of vendors ads that have new gas tanks up to 1973. Yes, the 1973 models up to May/June used a non-CIS tank and the tank prices are reasonable; however, the CIS tank has a series of internal baffles, swirl pot, large 22MM filter and the gas lines (fittings) are configured correctly. So, good luck replacing the tank if you want originality or want to save $$$$$.
Enter: Tank Refurbishment. The gas tanks are very easy to remove. You must drain the tank (done through either syphoning or opening up that large 22MM filter in the center bottom of the tank). Do please disconnect your battery first! The two hoses on the back of the tank come off, the fuel level sender comes off, the fuel filler hose comes off as too the hose for the carbon filter. You have several options from here: Their are a few shops that will totally refurbish your tank for under $1,000.00 or you can take the tank to a radiator shop, have them "boil it" in a caustic solution as they do radiators and then coat the inside with a few proven products such as those sold by POR. POR has a tank coating. One word of caution here: DO NOT USE REDKOTE for tank coating. This is what my radiator shop used as recommended. Its an approved internal tank coating used on Navy ships and is great, BUT that swirlpot inside your tank is made of bakelite (same as the distributor caps) and it turned out REDKOTE does not adhere well to bakelite. Just trust me on this one! So take a look at the POR product line and try a thread here as many have refurbished fuel tanks using POR coatings. You can remove the outer gray thick tank coating with paint remover or metal brush down to bare metal, coat the outside with POR15 and follow up with WURTH gray coating for a factory finish. The cost of all this should be about $500 but you need to supply the labor. My refurbished tank has lasted over 10 years now with no issues.

Welcome to the Porsche 1973.5T long hood world!

Bob

[DNJ]

Thanks Bob. I appreciate the insight regarding the gas tank. Any recommendations for shops that do the fuel tank refurbishment?

[Dave Kost]

Moyer Fuel Tank Renu - antique gas tank repair restoration, classic car gas tanks GASTANK

These guys did my 72 911. That was about 10 years ago and they did a good job

[techweenie]

Originally Posted by Sunroof

On the gas tank.....the 1973.5T gas tank is one of a kind and the only way to replace it is with a new CIS tank. Their are no 1973.5T tanks that are new and for sale, unless I am missing something! The problem here is you can replace the tank with a newer CIS tank but loose using the large spare tire and have to opt for the tire saver spare and reconfigure the gas lines (out and return). BEWARE of vendors ads that have new gas tanks up to 1973. Yes, the 1973 models up to May/June used a non-CIS tank and the tank prices are reasonable; however, the CIS tank has a series of internal baffles, swirl pot, large 22MM filter and the gas lines (fittings) are configured correctly. So, good luck replacing the tank if you want originality or want to save $$$$$.
Enter: Tank Refurbishment. The gas tanks are very easy to remove. You must drain the tank (done through either syphoning or opening up that large 22MM filter in the center bottom of the tank). Do please disconnect your battery first! The two hoses on the back of the tank come off, the fuel level sender comes off, the fuel filler hose comes off as too the hose for the carbon filter. You have several options from here: Their are a few shops that will totally refurbish your tank for under $1,000.00 or you can take the tank to a radiator shop, have them "boil it" in a caustic solution as they do radiators and then coat the inside with a few proven products such as those sold by POR. POR has a tank coating. One word of caution here: DO NOT USE REDKOTE for tank coating. This is what my radiator shop used as recommended. Its an approved internal tank coating used on Navy ships and is great, BUT that swirlpot inside your tank is made of bakelite (same as the distributor caps) and it turned out REDKOTE does not adhere well to bakelite. Just trust me on this one! So take a look at the POR product line and try a thread here as many have refurbished fuel tanks using POR coatings. You can remove the outer gray thick tank coating with paint remover or metal brush down to bare metal, coat the outside with POR15 and follow up with WURTH gray coating for a factory finish. The cost of all this should be about $500 but you need to supply the labor. My refurbished tank has lasted over 10 years now with no issues.

Welcome to the Porsche 1973.5T long hood world!

Bob

This is an excellent summary. I have found U-POL to have the best replacement for the gray outer tank coating as the Wurth has been hard to find.

[gt3racerich]

Originally Posted by Dave Kost

Moyer Fuel Tank Renu - antique gas tank repair restoration, classic car gas tanks GASTANK

These guys did my 72 911. That was about 10 years ago and they did a good job

I have been looking to have my tank done but was afraid that after doing so it wouldn't last that long.
With your recommendation I will give these guys a try.

[RarlyL8]

It can easily eat up $5000 to "get it running" if an old 911 has sat for too long. You have to clean the entire fuel system, rebuild or refresh all of the fuel system components, address the ignition and then get the engine turned over without breaking any rings or scoring cylinders. Don't do this right and you may be rebuilding an engine which makes $5k look like a bargain.

[911heaven]

I got mine running quote/unquote, a 69E sitting for over 30 years so I'll just throw in my 2 cents. I never pulled the motor, just lowered it to fix about 12 different oil leaks. It turned over by hand so I proceeded to get it running. The fuel system was what I attacked among many other things, but regarding the tank, I spent weeks and several hundred dollars on solutions to clean it inside, including the POR thingy. The outside was another and I did a lot of scrubbing and soldering to stop any leaks. I eventually gave up on that tank and took it to the scrapyard. I put in another tank I had and it is running to this day and that was 6 years ago I'd guess when I rejoined this forum after several years absence. The tank I put in is incorrect for year with the smaller spare. There it sits like that. I did everything myself, except I sent the MFI pump and injectors to Mark Jung. He didn't rebuild the pump, just recalibrated it, cleaned the injectors and sold me one cheap used injector for one dribbling no good one I had.

The moral of my story is, if the tank is too far gone, don't waste time and money on it like I did. I got an original used tank 2 years ago from a friend for 180 bucks in Osaka. It has a smallish ding on one side as if out of an accident car. The outside looks great and no rust like previous encounter I wasted weeks on. However, looking inside I can see it's had the POR treatment before. Moreover, I can see a spot where that treatment didn't take well and there is some rust evidence. Whether the POR can be done again or not is another issue. Anybody know? I only have $180 into this tank, and it is the original I need. I will attack it one day, if I don't sell the car as is before then. Good luck on your fuel system overhaul!