Do you bargain before or after the PPI?

[umfan866]

Guys,

I've come close to getting a PPI on a couple of cars. My mechanic wants about $250 for a full PPI with leakdown and compression.

But here's the problem - you want to use the PPI to bargain in the case that repairs are needed, however.. you don't want to spend the money on a PPI unless you know that the person is willing to negotiate in the first place? My experience is that most owners (including myself) think their car is worth more than its worth on the open market.

Do you bargain up-front saying, well if the PPI comes out well, I will be able to offer you x...., and you have to stick to it.. and hope it comes out well, or do you say I'd like to do a PPI and we agree to bargain from this point (x) AFTER the PPI based on its results? Or do you go along with a seller's sky-high price, prepare to bargain hard no matter what the PPI shows, and risk wasting money on a PPI if the seller sticks to his/her higher price?

I've thought of trying to split the cost of the PPI with the seller, on the basis that he/she could use one for the next guy even if you don't buy it-- but splitting the cost immediately reduces your leverage to bargain once the results are known..because the seller acted kindly by splitting the inspection cost.

I don't have any answers here because I haven't bought a used car in a long time, let a lone a Porsche, but I am sure many of you have experience. Also, do you let the owner drive & pickup the car from the shop you are PPI'ing at? Have you ever paid for the owner's maintenance of some issue while doing a PPI (e.g. give him a free oil change)- not sure what purpose this would serve.
I suppose if you know you are buying the car you could have some issues taken car of right there..

Thks Marv

[WPOZZZ]

A used car will cost you one way or another. If you go through the steps of a PPI, the seller will know you are serious. Just let him/her know you are interested in the car pending the PPI. After the PPI, you can let the owner know about the deficiencies and offer to give full price (if reasonable) if all deficiencies are fixed, or less costs of repairs.

My 85 cab was purchased w/o PPI as my mechanic said the price was so low, there was no way I could lose on the car. Repairs/upgrades to the car include tach and speedo repair, rotors and pads all around and new Bilsteins. It was also sent out for a small rust repair to the A pillar and a new top is being installed right now.

[anthony]

Do you bargain up-front saying, well if the PPI comes out well, I will be able to offer you x...., and you have to stick to it..

You should negotiate up front. A PPI is done to confirm your inspection and test drive of the car and to determine if the motor is sound. If the car doesn't pass the PPI then you can walk or renegotiate.

[racer]

I think both.

If your intent was to never offer full price you might as well admit it (to yourself) and not have a PPI done on the off chance something comes back bad.

I think most serious sellers now realize that if a buyer wants a PPI and is willing to pay for it ($200-300) that they are serious buyers. Once that is acknowledged, a seller should agree to work with a buyer should non-favorable issues show up during the PPI.

[t6dpilot]

I guess you could go either way here as long as both buyer and seller are acting in an ethical manner. When I bought my '71T from CA, I negotiated a fair price up front, gave deposit money, and we signed a purchase contract stating that if any major issue was found (ie. rust, major engine problem, ect), that either party was free to renegotiate or walk. That worked for me in this particular case. I guess it all depends on what the buyer/seller is comfortable with.

I agree that once somebody schedules a PPI, he is a serious buyer and negotiations should be treated as such. It could be viewed that if the PPI came away clean, the seller might try and take a stronger stance on his price - clean car and a buyer with skin in the game. I would personally prefer to agree on a fair price to both parties assuming a clean PPI. If the PPI reveals something major, then the price can be renegotiated (or not) or both parties agree to disagree. Just me $.02.

[Rockafella]

Before and after. Come to an agreement before, assuming a clean PPI. If the PPI comes back bad, do what feels right. I have had bad PPIs and sellers not budge. And I've had sellers basically pay for everything....no way to know till you're there. I have done that for cars I have sold, Porsche or not.

Whatever you do, don't bargain on the car until you see it. Most sellers (myself included) hate that. Judge the car fairly on it's merits, not just what you think I should be selling it for. Because most sellers couldn't care less what a buyer thinks it should be selling for until they step up and show they are serious.

FWIW.

[techweenie]

If I, as a seller, get the sense that an accepted, conditional pre-PPI offer wasn't sincere, I'll be reluctant to give a cent on price adjustments not fully justified by PPI results.