Thinking About Selling My Modified Early 911

[Kistle]

Please forgive the long post.

I have owned this car for 16 years and have enjoyed it immensely. I always thought I would just keep it forever, as it is such a great platform with a special motor. But, as I get a little older, I find myself with not much time to drive it.

I bought this car in Colorado Springs in 1998. Externally, It looks pretty much the same today as when I bought it, aside from the Cup I wheels (it had 15" Fuchs on it with 205 series tires). It also had a fiberglass tea tray rear wing, and now has a fiberglass ducktail from GT Racing. Euro H4 headlights also replaced the sugar scoops.

The car is a 1970 911E chassis, that has steel 9 and 11" turbo flairs welded on. It has fiberglass IROC front and rear bumpers (and short hood), and as mentioned previously the Cup I Mille Miglia 7.5 and 9x17" wheels with 225/275 x 17 Bridgestone RE730 rubber. The paint job was a high quality job done 20+ years ago, and has held up well. It has been garaged 100% of the time that I have owned it.

There is no MAJOR rust, but there is small visible rust hole in one of the door jambs, and the rear seats have worn thin and through in some spots from rust. Same for the parcel shelf...there is some small areas where rust has gone through. I used POR15 on the rear seats and the parcel shelf 10+ years ago, and none of the rust has advanced at all. That said, you know how these cars are...if there is visible rust, there is likely more hidden in rockers, etc... It should also be noted that the front suspension pan and tank support was replaced with a very high quality job about 5 years ago, so that much is known. Floor pans are also completely solid and rust free.

Now, on to the drivetrain. This is the good part. This car has a real *6332186* 1973 911S motor in it, built to 2.7RS specs with 90mm pistons and cylinders, complete with the original 2.4S MFI pump. This motor absolutely screams. It was completely rebuilt about 8 or 9 years ago, and has only done about 3K miles since then. It runs fantastic!! It was rebuilt down to the crank, including boat-tailed mains, Racewear studs, S Cams by WebCam, heads/valves all completely re-done by Ted Robinson of German Precision. Gus Pfister at Pacific Fuel Injection completely rebuilt the MFI pump. Matt and Eurometrix did the throttle bodies. The motor has incredible power and pulls smoothly to 7,300 rpms. With the magnesium case, it does seep a bit of oil, but does not actually drip. There is a slight film of oil on the lower components, so it could benefit a bit from tracking down those small leaks and re-sealing. This motor has had annual oil changes (regardless of mileage) with Brad Penn 20-50 Racing Oil.

The transmission is a 1971 911/01, wiIh A,F,N,V,Zd gearing. I have come to love this transmission, and the compatibility with the 210+ HP of this motor seems perfect. The transmission shifts smoothly, and has always been maintained with Swepco 201.

The suspension on this car has been completely re-done with Elephant Racing polybronze bushings and spherical bearings in the front a-arms, as well as new urethane torsion bar bushings and Elephant spherical bearings in the rear swing arms. It has Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates as well. Torsion bars are 23mm front, and 31mm rear. There is a 19mm front through-body sway bar, and 18mm rear sway bar. Shocks are Bilstein yellow, and there is a front strut brace as well. Brand new Zimmerman rotors and brake pads all around, Alloy S Calipers in the front, fresh ATE fluid. The car weighs ~2,300 lbs wet.

Interior was done 10+ years ago and includes RS carpet, and RS lightweight leather door panels. Momo MonteCarlo wheel and hub. Wooden Porsche script shift knob. I have Sparco America fiberglass buckets and also a set of near perfect seats from a Carrera, I think. The dash is perfect, and was redone about 5 years ago by a very high quality upholstery shop. Other interior "trim" is a little rough, and frankly would benefit greatly from a refresh, but is generally acceptable.

Anyway, there are many more details, and I am really just putting a feeler out there to help determine value on this very "non-stock" car. If I can get a "fair" price, I would like to sell this car and possibly move way up to a 996 GT3 or a 996 Turbo. If I can't get anything for it, I will just keep it and enjoy it, and maybe someday do a full refresh of the body and interior and keep the RS motor for a fun, lightweight toy.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback and would be happy to answer any questions.

Thanks,

JA

[timmy2]

I think you need to post about 20 more pictures showcasing the entire car, interior, rust situation etc. Post compression and leakdown numbers, and post what you think it is worth before anyone will be able to give you any meaningful feedback. JMHO

[Milesaway]

Unfortunately time has passed this car by. You'd probably be better off selling the engine separately as i can't see the car being worth much more than $20k in its current state. You'd probably get $10k for the engine or more if the original car is still around.

[ficke]

I agree with 'Milesaway' Your car is from a time that has long since passed us by. No longer are pre-73 911's the cheap platform to build your hot rod on and certainly no body is taken long hood cars any more and making them into short hood cars like yours. No longer are early S engines the cheap platform to build power engines with when 3.6 engines can be had for the price of your fuel injection alone. To realize the most money you should part it out and find buyers who will appreciate (pay) for the unique parts you have and some one who wants a short hood hot rod is not that person.

[gtc]

I think you could generate a lot more interest if you swapped the wheels for some wide fuchs (Braid replicas?), replaced the mirrors with period parts, and maybe installed some IROC graphics.
I don't understand the motor comments... 210hp in a 2300lb car is perfectly respectable.

[dporsche74]

S engine worth more then the package.
Maybe rip the flares off find the 70E MFI engine then have a nice 70E project

20-25K for engine
20- 25K for rip up 70E with correct engine trans

together as it is now 25K maybe

with some working it might get GT3 outta of it . Good luck

[ficke]

Originally Posted by gtc

I don't understand the motor comments... 210hp in a 2300lb car is perfectly respectable.

The engine in that car is worth more than the horse power it generates.
For instance The owner could remove the engine and sell it for in my estimate at least 15k to maybe 25k. You can buy a plug and play 3.6 package from Patrick racing for 18k. So you can gain 5k and 150HP by swapping out the collectable engine for a common work horse engine.
The engine is worth more on a pallet than the car as a driver.

[techweenie]

It's an E, and that's good, but there isn't much "E-ness" left in it. I think you're looking at $30K as it sits and a few thousand more if engine and 'the rest' are sold separately.

[Matt Monson]

That's a $15k engine in a $15k roller. $25k if you sell it as it sits.

[Kistle]

I appreciate all the candid feedback and pretty much agree with everything here. I don't really want to deal with parting it, so I will probably put it up for $25K and see what happens.

Thanks to all for the responses.

JA

[manbridge 74]

Sent you a PM..

[tomridal]

'74 912 Sturmwagen #2410 ........... Nikasil
'74 912 #2453 (sold) ......... Nikasil
'74 912 #3530 (more rust than car) Alusil

[manbridge 74]

Que?

[mreid]

That's a spambot. Run before it eats your entire identity!

Just kidding on the second part, but they are getting more sofisticated and starting to look more legit as they cut sections of other posts to try and fit in.

If you return your car to more of a long hood hotrod you will get more for it. For example, $4k in parts and paint, might get you $8k back. The year is still desirable, the look is what is dated.