Fair pricing for a rust-free '74-'77?

[andrewdoesit]

I'm starting the search for my first 911 and I'm in between getting a middie and an SC or 3.2. Given the crazy nature of the market right now, what would you guys say is fari market on a rust-free chassis, regardless of interior/exterior condition? It's going to be a project car, but I don't have the ability to fix rust and really don't have the budget to right out of the gate. Thoughts? Am I being too picky/overly optimistic?

[fanaudical]

This may come across wrong, but that's a hard question to answer. By "rust-free chassis, regardless of interior/exterior condition", do you mean a stripped tub? Roller with no engine/tranny? Complete car? I think the answer is more situation-dependent than you might think.

You might browse the For Sale and Marketplace forums here. You'll see some good info there.

I picked up a mostly complete, non-running '75 Targa in 2010 for "cheap" as a "project car". Based on my experience in getting that on the road, I've got two quotes that were given me early on that I'll share:

"Don't buy a used Porsche unless you can afford two." (Or sometimes 3 or 4...)

"There's no such thing as a cheap Porsche."

Don't get me wrong - I really enjoy the time and experience I've gained in rebuilding my 911 and the thrill of driving it. It makes little economic sense - $$$/mile is huge, but I've been gauging in "smiles per mile" and there's nothing like it. I do recommend you chase the newest and best condition 911 you can afford simply because they're easier to live with.

Money-wise, I think today the best bang-for-the-buck is a 2009+ Cayman. If I had to do it over again today, I'd probably chase the Cayman instead because it would most likely be less money and I'd probably drive it more...

[Matt Monson]

Not all middies are created equal. 74-75 are smog free and command more money because of it since CA and their size drive that. 76-77 are better galvanized and less rusty but have smog stuff that kills engines and is finicky. If 76-77 shopping I would prefer non-numbers with a 3.0l or larger swap.

Even though they aren’t really on par with a ROW Carrera, the us Carrera carries a 25-40% premium over an S or base 911. You can still find what you want in the $20-25k range. Much less if it’s in pieces. Iirc there’s a white 77 in the classified for $19k right now with a 3.0l. It looks like a reasonable starting point.

I’ve got an S title 3.2 swapped 74 I’m working my way through. I also have an 86 all stock. The 74 weighs hundreds less and drives a lot different. It’s a more fun car.

[peon77]

+1 What Matt said.

[75 911s]

Yeah that white 77 is a deal imho.

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by 75 911s

Yeah that white 77 is a deal imho.

That's what I thought.

[75 911s]

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

That's what I thought.

I think we're thinking of this one, it's a 76 actually. Close enough. Non sunroof is a huge plus as I'm spending about 2k to delete mine.

needs some minor body work, but man, starting with a 3.0 and Fuchs is half the battle.

[dwelle]

nice car indeed.

it's in hawaii, i'd want to see the tub before i paid even $19k galvanizing be damned...

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by 75 911s

I think we're thinking of this one, it's a 76 actually. Close enough. Non sunroof is a huge plus as I'm spending about 2k to delete mine.

needs some minor body work, but man, starting with a 3.0 and Fuchs is half the battle.

Ive got the memory of a goldfish, especially when i only give something 60 seconds or less. I swear the one i was thinking of is white but its more likely thats the car and i only got $19k 3.0l middie right.

[lvporschepilot]

Upper teens for a non running complete 74-75 coupe (non sunroof is more) with Non smog motor, but finding one without rust is pretty much impossible. The early mid years are my personal fav as they are incredibly light, but the thinner gauge steel used then rusts, period. The smog motor cars I would stay away from unless it’s a crazy deal as the engines often require multiple thousands in machine work alone.

[juanbenae]

I love these middie threads that reinforce my thoughts on valuation of the 75S I bought around a year ago. the motor was an early 3.oL, but was junk. the sunroof delete, manual windows, the Carrera cooler plumbed, new billstein struts, new rear billies, SSI's, RS interior, recaro seats 7 & 9 fuchs, steel SC flares and little to no rust except for a headlight bucket spot were all things that appealed to my project goals.

so I paid 30k, another 20k in motor work (complete rebuild) & carb acquisition. it's not a 50k car right now, but it will be in the coming years with all it has and I continue to improve upon....

[1979-930]

If you find a 74 with absolutely no rust. Pay $30k+ and be happy you did.

[davewadd]

my opinion.... the best entry level 911 is a 78-83 SC. You can find many that are rust-free, so buy the one in the best mechanical condition you can afford.

The prices on 74-75 cars are going to be higher than SCs because of no-smog in California. 74-75 cars are not many, and become sought after because they are thousands less than a longhood, and then drive just as great.

If you just want a fun air-cooled Porsche for a low price, you can still find some really nice 914s at $15k or less.

and now....the gratuitous pic of my '75 with a 3.2

[Matt Monson]

Pending Winter repairs on my rust free 74. Amazingly this really is the bulk of it.

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Pending Winter repairs on my rust free 74. Amazingly this really is the bulk of it.

OUCH! having just done the torsion bars this past couple weeks I was thrilled with the lack of any water intrusion signs in front or rear suspension pick up points or torsion tube. in fact both sets of existing tbars came out of the splines with little to no effort and showed no signs of rust. the more I learn about my car the better the deal seems.

[nathanbs]

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Pending Winter repairs on my rust free 74. Amazingly this really is the bulk of it.

another pelicanite and I were just discussing this oh-so-common repair as we were both tackling one simultaneously on separate ends of the map. It's a lot of work and if you are paying a professional to do it you can expect to spend $6500-8000 so don't undervalue that rust free car

[pmax]

Originally Posted by davewadd

my opinion.... the best entry level 911 is a 78-83 SC. You can find many that are rust-free

Best entry level is the 3.2 Carrera.

and now....the gratuitous pic of my '75 with a 3.2

Plastic does not rust, that’s one way to go.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-marketplace-discussion/974583-53k-body-work-73k-body-work-you-decide-28.html#post9826112

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by nathanbs

another pelicanite and I were just discussing this oh-so-common repair as we were both tackling one simultaneously on separate ends of the map. It's a lot of work and if you are paying a professional to do it you can expect to spend $6500-8000 so don't undervalue that rust free car

Your coastal rates don’t apply here. It is getting done properly and for nowhere near that.

It was caused by the slantnose conversion. Leaked down behind the headlight and back out through the AC.

[davewadd]

.... no plastic on mine...

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

It was caused by the slantnose conversion. Leaked down behind the headlight and back out through the AC.

and it's been said slantnoses never hurt anyone...