Central Florida, looking to swap KLR

[monsterdog]

Hey everyone, I'm trying to find someone who has a working KLR in the central Florida area that I can swap into my car, an '86 non-modded 951 to check and see if it resolves some maddening boost issues I'm having.

I have fridays and saturdays off, so I could probably hike it a couple hours or so and throw in some beer.

Thanks,
Paul
(Sarasota)

[robm-951]

I've over in Melbourne, but that's probably farther than you hoped for.

Have you checked over on Rennlist? I think there are a few 951 over on the west coast that could give you a hand.

What problem are you having? Do you have the DME/KLR test plan manual? If not, you can down download it from here. That file is .jpg scanned images of the individual pages of the manual.

Rob

[monsterdog]

Hey Rob, thanks for the reply. That's a sweet looking set-up you have.

I've been through the test procedures in the factory manual, but they haven't yielded any clues.

I recently did a bunch of stuff to the car and this included replacing all of the vacuum lines and running the venturi delete kit on my car. I was boosting relatively normally before, but it would fade rapidly and not hold between shifts. Most of the large vacuum/boost lines were basically hardened like some kind of petrified shale. There was nothing left of the fabric covered rubber line running off of the pressure side hardpipe banjo bolt to the metal snake under the manifold except for fabric. So it actually looked okay, but crumbled upon closer inspection. This all leads me to believe that my car was basically overboosting, and the wastegate was never receiving much of a signal at all, but that my vacuum leaks all together were enough to bleed off boost to the point where I wasn't destroying anything. I do remember in the early days of getting the car about a year ago that from time to time the boost dash gauge would exceed 2.0 bar. I didn't know at the time to freak out about that. Since most of my driving is off the highway anyway, I rarely have a chance to open up the throttle.

Anyway, now she runs like a charm but the cv, which I replaced just to be sure, appears to be always open, so I never get over 1.2 bar. If I clamp the line from the cv to the wastegate, I have plenty of boost available. Same difference if I clamp the line at the hardpipe banjo en route to the cv.

When I attach an led to the test port, I get a constant light when the ignition is switched on, and it blinks codes out when running if the tps is disconnected, which leads me to believe that at least some part of the KLR is working. I've checked all the electrical leads to and from the KLR plug to the various wire ends in the engine compartment and those check out okay. Other than when I pull the tps, I get no blink codes. Occassionally when I blip the throttle I'll get a blink on the led but that's it - not sure what that means.

I'm not sure if my AFM is allright, or if that's even a link in the chain that may cause things to get screwy. Is there a way to test it?

The TPS is of an uncertain vintage, but it tests okay with an ohmmeter and is adjusted properly, at least as best as I can get it.

I can never "hear" the cv actuate when I blip the throttle, but it switches with the leads pulled off when I give it 12 volts and a ground, and it appears to be getting voltage at idle from the KLR.

Not sure about the knock sensor, but the leads are okay, and I don't get any error codes on the led about it.

I've been considering just buying an accuboost and bypassing the cv completely and plugging the line coming off the rubber j-boot, but then that's just ignoring the underlying cause of the boost issues. But it would seem to be a fix for my problem, at any rate. The only thing I am worried about is that I read somewhere that the KLR pulls the timing if it detects a problem with the charging system. Since I'm running at the safe-mode threshold, I figure my car thinks something is screwy. If I go the manual-control route, I don't want to shred anything due to any wierd timing issues. But maybe I'm just imagining that.

Oh, I'd check rennlist, but I'm not a member.

Any ideas? (sorry about the long-winded ness)

[robm-951]

I'm not certain if you realized the following or not, but it can't hurt to double check.

The link I provided is for the DME/KLR test plan and is different than the factory manuals.

1.2 is right around the safe mode for the KLR, so it could be going into safe mode. To test this, after driving you car for a bit to get it up to temp, stop, turn it off, restart, drive easily to get into 4th gear and then get on it to see if you initially have greater than 1.2 of boost. If you do initially have over 1.2 but not afterwords, then the KLR is going into safe mode. The KLR will clear it's codes when the ignition is turned off, so while it's still in safe mode stop but do not turn off the engine and check for a code with the LED.

Also, have you pressurized the intake to see if you have any boost leaks and have you checked the recirc/bypass valve?

And finally, you don't have to be a paid member on Rennlist to read and post.

Sorry if you already knew the above. Hopefully something in there will help.

[nize]

monsterdog, check this thread;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=243643&highlight=valve

[nize]

actually, i just re-read your post and noticed you may have already read that old thread.

are you positive that you installed the venturi delete correctly? it sounds like there's a vacuum leak somewhere along those lines.

robm-951 has a great suggestion. you can attach a hand pump to one of the vacuum lines (make sure the leaking ends are clamped!) and try pressurizing it to see if they hold pressure. if it doesn't you've found the problem.