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Well I followed the instructions on this thread closely. I was able to get all of the nuts loose with some persuasion except for the last one on the thermostat. I tried everything. I have been soaking the nuts for two weeks with PB blaster. I even went out and bought a 36MM socket, cut the line, and use a breaker bar. Well it finally came loose, only problem is it took all of the threads on the thermostat with it.
I honestly do not think I could have done anything different, I believe the threads were welded to the nut over 30 years. After some choice words about having to buy a new thermostat, I cam to the realization, I will have to get the other two lines off of the thermostat to change it. Any thoughts on what else I could possibly do? Thanks! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/343977-1982-sc-oil-line-replacement.html |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 58,945
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I'd apply some judicious butane heat to the other nuts prior to attempting removal. You might need a large crowfoot on the forward nuts for a good purchase.
Heat works wonder especially as it's pretty damn cold where you are now. Since the thermostat itself is toast you can always cut the main body out to make more room to get to the forward nuts. Just take a break and think about it....you'll get it done. Hell, may be a 32 year old unit so it served proudly. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cambridge, MA
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I take a dremel with cutting disc and cut the nuts off. takes two cuts and screwdriver to pry the halves away from the threads.
You just have to be very careful how far down you are cutting, but the threads aren't the seal, the balled end of the pipe, so if you nick a few threads, you are fine. have done 3 like this with excellent results. Just go slow.
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Nash County, NC.
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+1 on side cutting the nuts...always
Bruce |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
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question....he's not trying to save the therm as it's already toast. Cutting the captive nuts off of the long pipes to the forward cooler is a good idea?
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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I bit the bullet and cut the nuts off at the oil tank and at the front oil cooler... replaced them all with ER pipes, thermostat and OEM hoses. My car runs so much cooler.
Sell the take offs' here on Pelican, someone will use them and will be easier to dismantle not mounted. |
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Oil lines.....
You could have brought the oil lines to me and helped you. It would take some patience and technique to get these auxiliary thermostat off from the brass oil lines.
![]() Now, you have a cut OEM oil lines and a bad auxiliary thermostat. You could save your auxiliary thermostat by installing thread savers coupler or simply get a good used thermostat. PM me if you need some assitance. Tony |
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Thanks for the advise all, I can not cut the nuts with a dremel tool as they are the nuts for the forward oil lines.
Tony, not sure I follow. Are you saying to cut the forward oil lines to better get at the nuts, then use rubber hose with clamps to secure them back. I am off to get a 36MM open end wrench and will continue to try. |
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You can certainly cut the nuts loose. Use Elephant racing parts replacement nuts that fit over the flange of the cooler line and use a washer provided.
Porsche 911 & Carrera Oil Circulation - Page 4 |
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After destroying a thermostat myself, the next oil line project I did I went straight to the elephant replacements with great success by cutting twice and splitting the nut off.
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Do not cut the oil lines........
Quote:
Mike, Do not cut the OEM oil lines, instead cut the nut/s if you failed to loosen them. I find it a lot convenient by dropping the oil line system and working on a bench. I broke an auxiliary thermostat in my very first attempt and learned from that experience. With the right tools and set-up, you could get them apart. But if the nut/s (steel) are fused with the aluminum threads, the likely hood of stripping the thread is high. As a last resort, slice the 36-mm nut/s and replace these with ERP nuts. After you have separated the auxiliary thermostat, this is the best time to test it. Do not install it back without verifying its operation. A simple water bath test at 186°F (+/-) will show you if the slide valve (thermostat) is good or bad. Tony |
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Regards, Flo / 79 SC streetrod - Frankfurt, Germany Instagram: @elvnmisfit |
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MF...
I experienced the same issue with the thermo and also wanted to save the forward lines. Here are some photos if you're interested... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/756122-part-2-2-replacing-oil-seals-gaskets-leaky-plumbing-85-3-2-a.html What I did in a nutshell and it worked: Removed the forward lines (attached to external thermo) entirely. Very easy (on my '80.) Just a few retainers holding the lines and trombone in. (EDIT) I forgot to mention that I pulled the rubber rocker trims off too (also very easy.) (Replace rubber with these retainers if rotted. Hot water plumbing hose will work just fine and cost less than Pparts.) Then torched each nut redhot and dunked the unit in motor oil --- NOT WATER! For some reason, dunking in oil does something different to the metals so when they do come apart, there is less sticking of aluminum to steel. When the nuts come loose... clean the threads on the forward nuts. Best to you MF!
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Karl ~~~ Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2. 964 cams, SSI, Dansk 2 in 1 out muf, custom fuel feed with spin on filter Prior: '77 Copper 924. '73 Black 914. '74 White Carrera. '79 Silver, Black, Anthracite 930s. Last edited by Discseven; 01-26-2014 at 08:57 AM.. |
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Cars and Cappuccino
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Just did EXACT same project last night...what a &*^%$ female dog this was on my 1985 FFA (factory fat-ass). Fortunately the local guru was there to lend a hand, otherwise I would be dead in the water. Stefan at Huewe Motorsports made an "oil line persuader tool" after grinding down a very long 1 3/8" in wrench. This was required as the 36 mm stubby wrench, PB Blaster and the torch had all failed in the task. We kicked around splitting the nut, but decided with the "more leverage" option. He is the pic of the 1 3/8" in the vise getting "customized" to fit the oil line coupling. We used another wrench to support the thermostat during the leveraging process. Also replaced the rubber return line (cake in comparison) from the tank. I peeked under the car this morning and i think I may FINALLY have a dry floor.
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http://www.carsandcappuccino.com 1987 Grand Prix White "Outlaw" Turbo Coupe w/go-fast bits 1985 Prussian Blau M491 Targa 1977 Mexico Blue back-dated,flared,3.2,sunroof-delete Coupe 1972 Black 911 T Coupe to first factory Turbo (R5 chassis) tribute car (someday) |
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Cars and Cappuccino
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Clean coardboard this AM
The first time I have ever seen this. I think we are successful.
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http://www.carsandcappuccino.com 1987 Grand Prix White "Outlaw" Turbo Coupe w/go-fast bits 1985 Prussian Blau M491 Targa 1977 Mexico Blue back-dated,flared,3.2,sunroof-delete Coupe 1972 Black 911 T Coupe to first factory Turbo (R5 chassis) tribute car (someday) |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 844
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yup, thats a good pic right there...
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