To rebuild or find another car?

[LiquidBMW76]

I bought my first BMW a '93 318i about a year ago for $2000. With normal wear and tear of a car with 198,000 miles on it. Imperfect interior & exterior. With no major mechanical problems aside from the a/c tensioner pulley, a slight oil leak around the oil pan, and the sunroof tray needed replaced. Now it has 220,000 miles of enthusiastic but not abusive driving and t is starting to have problems. Rough Idle and dying when first started no matter the temperature. The check engine light is on but there is no dealerships around to have it checked out. The suspension is starting to get soft as in the shocks and stuff need replaced. I love driving this car when I first got it and still do but it needs help now as I have mentioned. The question is should I go through and sort out all the problems plus rebuild the engine or find another car. Keeping in mind that with my limited budget I would have to save for a while to buy another car. On the other hand if I fix it back up to new plus add somethings to improve performance and handling I can do it piece by piece and spread it out over time. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I love the 3 series and the driving experience that it creates.

[Jeron]

Why do you need to rebuild the engine?

Yours is OBD-I so you should be able to pull the CEL codes without a reader. Pelican had the procedure in the Tech Info Center.

The rough idle is common but not easily diagnosed. Mine was ICV but it returned. Sometimes it is vacuum leak, bad coils, loose spark plugs, software, clogged air filter etc

The shocks and bushings will need to be replaced but most of the work is easy although a few special tools are required for some items. You will eventually spend 500-1000 to replace all of the suspension even if you DIY.

Personally, I would want to get a newer E36 but I don't know your money situation.

[LiquidBMW76]

The motor rebuild was a matter of refreshing the motor and also strengthening for a future supercharger. Money is tight so I figured I can put money into an upgraded suspension and other prfomance enhancements which I would want to do on a newer car eventually. Thanks for the info on how to read the codes though that should help out in getting it to run better.

[Jeron]

Supercharger kits ($6k) are very expensive. You will probably get better hp gain per $ by buying a new car with a larger engine.

I would just do the RSM ($40), CAB 60, RTAB 40 bushings and new shocks 150 then get an alignment and save for a 325 or M3.

Check your front control arm out ball joints and your front sway bar endlink balls

[LiquidBMW76]

CAB? RTAB? I've already replaced the two front control arms because the ball joints went out on both sides and I know I need to replace the endlinks just haven't had the money being christmas time and having a little one to buy for. I think I'll just save for the 325 then Might take awhile but hey they are worth it right. Thanks

[Jeron]

CAB - front control arm bushing. It is the circle that the rear most tip of the front control arm goes trough. Must be pressed out and in with a hydraulic press.

RTAB- Rear trailing arm bushing. it is the pivot point or the rear trailing arm. A special tool is needed to pull and replace the bushing.

RSH - bushing the top of the rear shock bolts through. Get the E46 M3 bushing.

There are specific part numbers that are supposed to be stiffer than others. When you get ready to buy let me know.

[LiquidBMW76]

Thank You I will.

[bmw mechanic]

i have recently replaced my e36 bushes with polyurethane bushes and replaced my suspension with 2 litre springs and gas shock absorbers and i didn't need any "special tools" and it cost about £450, if u want i will e-mail u a list of tools that u need and where 2 get the parts from?

[Jeron]

I know you can rig a tool to pull and press the RTAB's and even the CAB's. I'd like to know what you used.

Of course the RSM's don't need anything special.

[bmw mechanic]

i used a medium chisel, a blow torch, a brick top hammer and a large socket with a medium extention (one that you dont need because you are gonna hammer it). the whole back end was off the car to get easier access and it only takes a couple of hours to remove and just standard tools!

[Jeron]

ROFLMFAO

[mr.mike36]

I am in the same boat with a 92 325i AT that I just bought...I feel its a great car but the kid before me didnt really maintain it for the 30k that he had it and who knows what the previous owner did....it was first sold with 186k and I am at 208k...everything is preety fresh,with the exception of a surging fuel problem, but I love the performance compared to my 318i. I dont want to get into a regular workout with this thing and only end up losing the motor due to high mileage. Any point at which these are no good anymore...rebuild at what mileage...and is all of the replacement issues upgradeable to higher performance with relative ease? I love the simplicity of BMW but I have yet to discover what I would have to do in the case of a rebuild....afterall I drive over 50 miles a day and I have a family to care for even though I sometimes wonder which I think is more important I love my beem!