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Registered
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routine maintianence time guys
well guys i noticed that my guibo is starting to crack around the holes and i figure its a good time to replace it. i also plan on putting in the UUC black transmission mounts with TMEs and replace my shif bushings at the same time.
question is how big of a PITA is this? I dont have a bentley yet but i am a mechanic. unfortunatley the only time ill have to do this is on a sunday afternoon when work is closed so looks like i wont be able to use a lift. No problem. I see pelican parts has a nice writeup on this. Do they sell a guibo kit with the new bolts and nuts as well? i see they make a shifter bushing kit which will save me a lot of hassle. are those a PITA to replace too? because id also like to replace the bishings and put in an M coupe shift rod for a better feel. |
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Moderator
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I've heard of some that have changed the guibo without dropping the drive shaft but it will be difficult. If you drop the drive shaft you have to remove the exhaust and shielding. Use lots of penetrating oil on every thing especially the exhaust nuts.
Thing you might want to replace: Muffler hangers Cat hangers Center support bearing exhaust nuts I reused my guibo bolts but replaced the locking nuts. An impact wrench and a 16mm box wrench are the best way to remove the guibo bolts. The front clip that mounts the carrier to the tranny is a PITA to remove. While you have the tranny mounts loose jack the front of the engine up to give more clearance. Bend the locking tab on the clip so it wont "lock" in place so future replacements are easier. You might want to get delrin bushings for the front of the carrier. Replace: the selector rod sponge but not the selector rod pivot the ball cup the rear carrier bushing the rubber shift boot will probably disintegrate upon removal. Get whatever new shifter you want but definitely do it now.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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Registered
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or just let the tranny down a little bit too i guess. by the looks of it ill be relying on my trusty 11 inch 3/8ths ratchet and extentions sunday and deep sockets.
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Registered
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also did u actually torque those nuts to 85 ft lbs? i figure i can just tighten em up real good.
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Moderator
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Jacking the front of the engine will bring the tranny down a bit. It may tilt down on its own when you loosen the brace but if it doesnt...
I have a, well I have 3 actually, cheepo Harbor Freight $10 1/2" torque wrenches I use as breaker bar and for gross torque operations. You'll have to put almost all you have into the 11" ratchet to get 85 ftlbs. The guibo tends to flex while removing and torquing the bolts. I could not get the guibo loose with an 18" breaker bar until I used penetrating oil and an impact wrench. The penetrating oil may have been the key. Read the instructions on the TME's a couple of times and tighten them just a little more than finger tight.
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HPDE Instructor (BMW / PCA / Apex) Here: 1997 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma ~ 2006 Yamaha R6 ~ 1997 R1100RT ~ 1991 Ford F-150 5.8l ~ 2015 Kia Optima Gone: 2001 330i Silver/Grey ~ 98 Camry V6 ~ 97 Camry I4 ~ 97 Mazda 626 I4 ~ 93 Sentra SE-R ~ 88 Toyota Truck I4 |
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