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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 10
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Timing belt timing question...HELP
Hi I have 1989 BMW 325i 2-door. I am changing the timing belt on the car so before removing it I was aligning the O/T mark on the cracksheft pulley, however when the mark is aligned, the mark on the camshaft sproket is off by one tooth, this tripped me out, because BENTLEY manual and Pelican Parts write ups I read say that these marks have to align together...there are no problems with the engine it runs perfectly, I don't hear any ticking so I don't think there are any mistakes, after looking extensively I noticed however that the cranckshaft pulley has another notch on the side of it and that one aligns perfectly when the camshaft sprocket is aligned...just curious if anyone has done these cars and has an input or an idea of which marks I should align...??? Any input is appreciated.
P.S. My cranckshaft pulley has teeth on it unlike the one shown in the Pelican Parts write-up. |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 10
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Anybody please???
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Author of "101 Projects"
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Can you post a picture of this? A picture is worth 1000 words...
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 15
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Timing marks
I just completed a timing belt change this past week on my '87 325is. When I ordered the new belt, there was a 128 and a 127 tooth option. My old belt had 127 teeth (physically counted them), so I went for that one as the original marks were lined up perfectly. I would recommend taking the crank pulley off and using the alignment mark on the crank itself. There is a v-notch cut into the lower timing cover that lines up with the mark on the crank. While you're in there, consider changing; water pump & camshaft seals. Also make sure your cam sprocket, cover, rotor mount and rotor are properly assembled.
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Registered
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 6
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Timing belt
This may sound stupid, but you might want to look at the timing marks using a small mirror. It may just look like it is off.
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 10
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Thanks for the help. I used the mark on the crankshaft itself-without the wheel. It turns out the old belt was actually installed off by one tooth. Here is a picture of the crankshaft marking for anyone else out there.
![]() Now everything is good. I just put the car back together it is running great...better than before. I have a small question however...are the injectors supposed to be very loud on these cars...I mean I can hear ticking when I drive if the windows are down and there is a wall or something for the sound to reflect off of...I think it's the injectors because the valves have just been gapped prior to putting the head on.??? |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 15
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Ticking noise
Nice job on the belt. That ticking could be the valves still, I have the same problem. I had them sdjusted by the local BMW dealer - who said they were set too tight, and they sounded even worse when I got the car back. I did them again myself but the book I referred to said to set them to 12/1000's when cold, whereas this really should have been 10/1000's. After adjusting them again , they sound better, but still not as quiet as I would like. I would be interested to hear from other people, too.
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 10
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Yeah that's what I did. I got a rebuilt head from a local shop and the mechanic said he did adjust the valves...but I decided to check them anyway and it turned out that they where all too tight except one that was too open, so I readjusted all the valves myself yesterday and now the sound of a diesel engine is gone...sounds much better and feels smoother, but I still get a little tick which I think now are the injectors, however they are hardly heard with the hood closed. Thanks for your input, by the way the gap is 0.010 cold and 0.012 hot - that's from the Bentley manual and that's what I used.
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