E30 Error Codes

ein · 10-17-2011, 08:56 AM

I have a 1989 325i and I am getting codes 32 and 33 from the peak code scanner tool.

32: Engine drag torque control (MSR)
33: Ignition timing intervention

Does anyone know what these errors are and possible cause? As far as I can tell code 32 has to do with engine braking, possibly the ABS system. I haven't been able to make heads or tails of code 33 though.

ein · 10-25-2011, 11:34 AM

Sorry I haven't gotten back in a while. After I got those codes I disconnected my battery to clear all errors. I drove it around for a few days then scanned for codes again. This time I got error code 35: Full load switch. I had gotten this error before and I replaced my Throttle Position Switch in hopes of fixing it, and now its back. Anyone have any insight to code 35? I'm not sure my original post is relevant since I am unable to duplicate the codes.

Jared at Pelican Parts · 10-26-2011, 08:23 AM

How are you getting these numbers? BMW codes are four digits, not two.

ein · 10-26-2011, 10:26 AM

I am using the Peak Research R5/FCX-3 tool, not the stomp test.

Jared at Pelican Parts · 10-26-2011, 10:28 AM

Do the stomp test and post what codes you get back.

ein · 10-31-2011, 03:19 PM

Alright, so this is going to be a long post to those of you that are reading this thread.

I had to take out the instrument cluster to replace the bulb in the check engine light socket. I don't have a spare at the moment so i took the one from the abs light socket. After getting the cluster plugged back in I turned the key to see if the check engine light came on, it did so i did the stomp test. I got the code 1233 (WOT switch). I have gotten this code before using the peak research code scanner (code 35 or "full load switch") and ended up replacing my throttle position switch. Why this code keeps coming back I have no idea... When I installed my new TPS I did check continuity for closed and WOT positions.

Okay, so I then proceed to start the car (after doing the stomp test) and it started up and idled for minute or two then SLOWLY coughed + recovered and finally stalled. I then turned off the key for a few seconds and tried to start again. No dice. Now it just coughs and half catches then stalls, so I cant get it started. Being curious I did another stomp test and I got 1215 (AFM/MAF) and the usual 1233 (WOT switch), hunh at this point I'm stumped.

After letting the car sit for an hour or so I tried starting again and now she doesn't even cough, never mind catch. So I did another stomp test and the only error is 1233 (WOT)... The 1215 (AFM/MAF) code from earlier is gone.

So in conclusion I'm ~450 miles from home and my car wont start. To be honest, the car has had some problems starting before but it always started after 1-2 minutes of trying. Any idea anyone has would be much appreciated.

Cheers!

Frajo · 07:55 PM

Have you tried giggling the wire harness to the MAF? Once I went to pass a car in front of me as soon as I went for the pass my car lost all power mid pass. The woman thought I was messing with her because I couldn't comPlete my pass. She slowed down as my car was loosing power. Then started yelling. I was shrugging my shoulders like i dont know? Kind of embaressing. My car was sputtering and had no power. With the engine barely Idleing, I popped the hood and messed with the connection at my MAF. The idle came right back. I scanned it afterwards with my Peak tool and the MAF came up. Just a thought.Good luck.

Jared at Pelican Parts · 11-01-2011, 09:27 AM

I agree, it sounds like a wiring harness problem at this point.

ein · 11-01-2011, 11:06 AM

I left the car overnight then this morning I went out and started it up, I was going to try jiggling the MAF connector wires but it started up beautifully on the first try. I then tried moving the connector around while it was running to see if I could get it to cough like it was yesterday, but I was unable too. Does this still sound like a wiring harness problem? I don't doubt it as the harness does look old and weathered.

As a side note the car always starts better when its cold, both the motor and the outside temp. Could this mean anything?

Jared at Pelican Parts · 11-01-2011, 11:10 AM

At this point, id suggest checking the wiring harness for continuity. The Bentley manual goes over all fo this in detail. You'll need to remove the glovebox and unplug the wiring harness connector at the ECU.

ein · 11-03-2011, 06:27 AM

Thanks for the tip Jared, I tested the harness using the table in the Bentley Manual. Everything checked out except the fuel pump, at first it came on when I connected the pins then went I wen through the harness again it didn't, I could hear the relay clicking but no fuel pump, I then proceed to take out the back seat and the metal cover over the fuel pump. I then moderately tapped on it with a flashlight, then connected the terminals and it came on. A few hours later the car wouldn't start, just coughed. I tapped on the fuel pump again and it started right up next try.

As far as fuel pump replacement, would you replace the level senders at the same time (kinda pricey)?

Jared at Pelican Parts · 11-03-2011, 07:27 AM

You shouldnt have to replace the level senders.

Frajo · 11-03-2011, 03:05 PM

Make sure you check the wire harness to the FP for good connection. I drove myself crazy for months trying to figure out why her FP was intermittent. The wire harness was really loose

ein · 11-03-2011, 06:59 PM

What do you mean by fp? Fuse panel?

ein · 11-03-2011, 09:46 PM

Disregard my last post, you mean Fuel Pump. :P