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coolant temp. problem
Okay so, I have a 1988 BMW 325IX. I was getting a coolant temperature sensor code on the dash (the red rectangular light) so i replaced the sensor. Still got a code. Replaced again thinking bad sensor, and it is still there. And yes i did have the battery disconnected so the computer could reset the codes. It is still there. So I left it alone and didn't worry about it because it ran fine. Now all the sudden when I am driving and the car is under load it begins to jerk, and the light flickers. Replaced air filter and idle control valve. Just ordered new fuel pressure regulator. Cleaned up the MAF. No vacuum leaks. Please help. Very frustrated at this point. Also the car has trouble started when cold. Usually takes a few key turns to get it to start up, then idles rough and wants to stall then it acts fine.
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06-20-2014, 09:31 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,147
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The hard starting points to there still being a problem with some temperature sensor.
I don't have a wiring diagram handy, but I think that there should be three water temperature sensors - the important one talks to the fuel injection system, the moderately important one controls the relay for the electric fan, and the unimportant one controls the gauge in the dash. Sorry to offend, but are you sure that you replaced the correct one? Also, the computer will compare the reading from the important sensor to other temperature sensors to make sure they more-or-less agree. You may need a Bentley manual and an ohm meter to figure out which temperature sensor is acting up. |
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06-22-2014, 07:06 AM
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No I am sure that I replaced the correct one. Update: last night the check engine light went out when I started my car and it began to idle at 1,500 rpm and bounce up and down a little. So I decided not to drive it because it was nasty outside and didn't want to breakdown. This morning when I checked it, i started it and the light went out and it idled mostly normal. Around 950 rpm which is slightly high. Also when I was driving and pressed the clutch in it was slow coming back down to idle. Its like when the check light is on the car runs better. Next project is the injectors. Does anybody know what companies i could send them to for a redo?
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06-24-2014, 04:30 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,147
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Two well-reviewed places that check flow, pattern, resistance, and actuation,and ultrasonically clean injectors are Witchhunter and Cruzin Performance, though I am not sure Cruzin is still in business.
I doubt, however, that your problem is injectors. High idle and running better when the system is running open loop both suggest air leaks. |
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06-24-2014, 05:42 AM
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But, the injectors are stock, never touched with 210k miles on them. If they are leaking fuel or just not working properly could it cause the car to not want to start or to run terrible?
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06-24-2014, 05:57 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,147
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Perhaps, but there are clearly other things at work here.
One way to test injector condition is to run a bottle of Techron through the fuel. If it seems to help a little, that points to fuel injector problems that a good cleaning might resolve. I sent in the injectors from an e36 328 at around 225k miles and it turned out that they were all pretty good. Witchhunter sends a detailed report on flow rate and pattern before and after cleaning. That was not the problem. Most of my problem at that time was worn VANOS O-rings and a cam position sensor that was starting to fail. That car has 320k miles on it now and still looks and runs great. e36s were good cars. |
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06-24-2014, 06:40 AM
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Just bought 6 new spark plugs today. Going to put them in as well as clean injectors and see what happens. Also I will disconnect the battery and let the computer reset. Wish me luck!
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06-24-2014, 09:50 AM
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So I got the car home from work today and my dad decided to check the spark plug wires going into the distributor and he got shocked. He took a piece of wire and a screw driver and grounded himself to the car and probed around the wires. Every single wire arched to the screw driver. We put new spark plugs in and electrical taped around each wire for a quick fix until the new wires come in. Car ran perfectly fine and the COOLANT TEMPERATURE fault is GONE! We think it could have arched to it and caused the fault but not sure. For everybody who has this problem please check this scenario out!
 Figured I should show a picture of it too.
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06-24-2014, 05:03 PM
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1988 BMW 325IX
