Quote:
Originally Posted by patkeefe
I guess, in theory, the rings, especially the top ring, is mostly dry of oil during normal operation. The lowest ring in the cylinder, the oil scraper ring (oil control ring), is there to basically scrape the excess oil from the cylinder walls. So, providing the oil ring is doing its job, there will be little oil hitting the middle compression ring, and the top ring is essentially dry. During operation, oil travels from the crankcase to the combustion chamber, if it makes it to the combustion chamber (mostly, it does not). If you fog (essentially spray a cloud of oil into the chamber via the spark plug hole), you are going opposite of the direction of normal operation. So, you are putting oil where it usually isn't. Also, your cylinders are either Nikasil or Alusil, two materials that don't rust.
Some people swear by this fogging. Some people think it is at best overkill, and at worst, useless. Choice is yours. I can say most wear in an engine is during start-up, which is why Accusump is so popular. So, really the best thing to do is pressurize your oil system prior to turning the key.
|
Hi Patrick
Almost all of my engine experience is with iron blocks, where parked iron rusts and delayed start up hammers rings. I’d forgotten that we are dealing with, non rusting bores.
Does it seem reasonable that with an oil change prior to cranking a plug less engine, with, Squirt of oil and the fuel pump disabled - I should be ok?? After pressure is established, new plugs, check valve adjustment, check head stud torque???”
Not to drift too far off the OP’s inquiry, is an accusump of significant help, given the nature of the dry sumps ability to have oil at the pump, prior to start up??
Thanks,
chris