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Try not, Do or Do not
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Fallbrook, Ca. 92028
Posts: 14,225
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Here are few thoughts highlighted in red.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmanelan
Ok - about to start the teardown on my 2.2t. Looking for feedback on my choices.
Own the bible have read (most of) it! (Before somebody asks) What is this "Bible" you refer to?
I am aiming at a a nice touring/ street engine with good mid range - not going to spend much time over 7000rpm.so not focused on top end power. Guess hoping to get to something like 150hp The 2.2 911 T was a 5400 rpm engine. 7000 rpm is an upgrade requiring a little thought.
Am going to do a total rebuild so:
- add piston squirters Cast iron cylinders do not require oil squirters.
- Oil bypass mod By pass mod is useless without a 908 style pump
- Case savers smart but not necessary
I am inclined towards a short stroke and reuse whatever I can so thinking
- keep t crank the crank is fine as are the rods. ARP bolts are generally recommended but ARP does not make a 2.2 rod bolt. Some rod modification is necessary to install 2.4/2.7 bolts.
- refresh t heads You might want to open the intake ports to enhance volumetric efficiency.
- double springs ?? all 911 engines come with dual springs, depending on cams, stock springs are good to go (after testing)
- bore out my iron cylinders to 86mm (have read some saying I can't and some saying no problem) You can not bore 2.2 T cast iron cylinders out to 86mm. The cylinder wall get too thin. If you goal is higher compression I would look to install Biral 86mm cylinder. The aluminum fins will help pull the heat created by additional hp form the head. Laws of thermal dynamic tell us the heat travels from iron to aluminum not vise versa.
- - je pistons (9.5:1) There are many choices for after market pistons and JE will work fine . You might target 9.0:1 to protect against potential detonation on street gas. Hot heads, high dynamic compression (mild cams given your desired rpm range) can offer a challenge since your goal is "no cooler".
- e cams (or DC30? is this worth it given I am sticking with t crank so wont be high rev motor) DC 30 is a Mod Solex and is a nice compromise. Solex cams are also a favorite of mine for your projected
- Weber 40s IDA carbs or preferable to the IDT that came on many 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 T engines.
- was hoping to avoid adding an oil cooler - interested if you think possible with this setup Whenever Porsche designers came up with a formula that made 165 hp they generally added a cooler. OF course the 75-77 2.7 cars were an exception....a mistake for sure.
That said, high days and spirited driving will generally facilitate a front cooler. Once again, head temps created by your final configuration will be key.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance
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Cheers
Last edited by Henry Schmidt; 09-09-2025 at 04:25 PM..
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09-09-2025, 11:14 AM
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