[Grady Clay]

Here is a little part of my “How To Go To Events” White Paper. This paper is too long for the Pelican system. Please e-mail me if you want a draft copy.


“Tie-down system: Envision the trailer on its side bounding down the side or median of the freeway. You want everything to stay in place so you can call a tow truck to right it and load everything into another truck or trailer with no damage to the “T”.
Car tie down; There are two theories; tie the chassis down and compress the suspension and tires or tie the tires and wheels down and let the car float on it’s suspension. I recommend both. Either way, the trailer is basically the same. You want eight to twelve very substantial recessed D-ring pan fittings that are bolted through the steel frame of the trailer, preferably at the intersection of the side rail and a cross member. You need to have twelve high quality (Kinedyne) 2” ratchet straps (3500#+). Have a pair of E-track mounted chocks for the wench to pull the front tires against, this way the “T” is in exactly the same place every time and you don’t have to re-adjust the tie-downs.
Equipment tie-down: Bungee cords are great for keeping things from rattling but the only things you should tie-down with them is your driver’s suit. Heavy things (tool box, roller cabinets, N2 cylinder, generator, air compressor, coolers, tires, tables, etc.) need tie-downs appropriate for their weight. Imagine a toolbox thru the windshield! The easiest to use system is E-track. This is the standard for the cargo industry, there are lots of suppliers, and the price is as low as it can be (isn’t competition wonderful.) The heaviest things use the 2” straps (3500#) like the car tie-downs. Others can use the lighter weight (835#) 1” ratchet straps. I recommend two continuous lengths of E-track down the trailer floor, just inboard of the tires and just outboard of the floor-boxes. These should be bolted thru the trailer frame at every opportunity. On the sides, there should be a strip at about 8-10” off the floor fore and aft of the wheel boxes. There also should be continuous strips at about 36” and 50” above the floor. Same for the front wall. Very heavy things, like nitrogen cylinders, should have a retaining structure bolted thru the floor and frame in addition to multiple restraints to the wall E-track. E-track is available in both steel and aluminum and, if properly installed, will dramatically increase the structural strength of the trailer (not to mention its value and usefulness). Have the E-track welded to form a continuous strip (it comes in 10’ lengths.)
With something called “shoring bars” that fit the side E-track, you can build platforms above the car and above the hood for lightweight things.
How to think about tie-downs is if you have an item that weighs 100# and you have a 20G crash, that is a 2,000# working load. Translate that to a 2500# car and it is 50,000#. Another issue is that you don’t want the entire load at a single point; the straps, trailer or car are not that strong. Also, you don’t know the direction of the load. Hence, have multiple attachments in several directions.
There is no small amount of cost in all the cargo control but it’s worth it.”
© 2006 Grady Clay, Denver, CO


For your situation, try these threads:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=1928450&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

I would never tow a loaded trailer greater than 30% of the tow vehicle without brakes.

Best,
Grady