If you are in any doubt at this point you could take the alternator to a parts store and get them to check it. HOWEVER, if it is a temperature dependent problem they may say that the alternator is fine as it probably won’t get hot enough on their test equipment to show the fault.
Replacing the regulator
First remove the plastic cover from the end of the alternator. There are two nuts that need to be removed from the threaded terminals and one cross head screw.
Once these are off the cover just pulls off. Now you have access to the regulator itself. There is one small cross head screw which attaches a wire loop connection from the rectifier to the regulator. This needs to be removed along with two longer cross head screws which mount the regulator to the alternator.
With these removed the regulator just slides out sideways.
It is probably a good idea to give the alternator a good clean with some electrical contact cleaner at this point. You can then check the wear on the slip rings and make sure everything else looks in good shape. The new regulator is simple to fit, just be careful sliding the brushes in to the housing as you do not want to damage them. Once in place you just refit the screws and reassemble the end cover. Job done!
Refitting the Alternator
If you didn’t manage to get the threaded bushing loose then you will need to do this before you attempt to refit the alternator. If not you will find it impossible to get everything lined up to the point that you can slide the two right hand flanged over the long slotted boss. To move the bushing it will probably help to give it a very good soak with some penetrating oil and fit the long bolt (without the pulley) so that it threads fully into the bushing.
Next you need to find a socket that can fit over the outside diameter of the bushing but still contact the alternator flange. Stand the alternator up on end with the socket under the flange. Find something to support the weight of the alternator so that it sits level on the socket, I used a folded towel. With the alternator sitting square either use a press or a few sharp taps with a hammer to knock the bushing down into the flange. Once the face of the bushing is flush with the face of the flange you should have no problem getting the alternator back in.
Rest the alternator in position so that you can refit the big wire to the terminal stud before refitting and tightening the nut. Make sure it’s tight. Refit the plug and push it on until it snaps in place. Wiggle the alternator back in place and refit the long bolt with the pulley now fitted. The long shank of the bolt between the two alternator flanges can be inserted into the slot. While the long bolt is still loose pivot the alternator around until you can fit the short bolt on the left and tighten finger tight.
Now tighten the long bolt to around 40 to 48Nm (30 to 35 lbs-ft). It will need to be sufficiently tight to pull the bushing back into contact with the slotted boss and clamp the alternator in place. You will probably hear a brief ‘crack’ if the bushing moves suddenly – don’t be alarmed. Make sure it is tight by making sure that you cannot push the alternator bolt up out of its slot. Now tighten the shorter bolt to about 34 to 40Nm (25 to 30 lbs-ft).
Use the 24mm socket to remove the tension on the belt tensioning pulleyagain and refit the serpentine belt over the alternator and idler pulleys.
This might sound stupid but PLEASE DON"T FORGET to remove the tape or shop cloth from the air box hose and refit the air box, tightening the hose clamp and refitting the mounting bolt.
Now put the MAF sensor wire back into both harness clips on the back of the airbox and reconnect the plug.
Finally start the car, allow it to warm up, and check the charge voltage. Like I said up top somewhere, mine is now working perfectly and I have had no issues at all using the F 00M 145 350 regulator.