Quote:
Originally posted by SoCal Driver
SNIP....You can pop the seals off of the TO and pilot bearings and force fresh grease though them. Don't force these seals. If they don't want to budge you can still force grease through but is a bit more trouble. If these bearings feel "rough" when you spin them by hand then it's best to replace them. The TO bearing in my 83 is still going after over 200,000 miles.
If the clutch peddle pressure was/is as before then you really don't need a pressure plate. You can have circular rivit cuts in the faces of the flywheel and pressure plate but not radial heat cracking and discoloration....SNIP
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I disagree -in my opinion that is taking a bit of a gamble hoping that the parts last.
For all of the time and labor required to replace the clutch disk, it is usually best to replace the pressure plate, throwout and pilot shaft bearing as well as the flywheel seal. - especially since it will only cost about $250 or so more to ensure that all of your clutch components are new.
Though the flywheel seal is not normally part of the procedure, it just makes sense to replace it while you are there - it costs $10 or so and adds about 15 minutes to the job - - better than taking the whole thing apart again to replace it if it starts leaking.
To really do the job right, pelican sells a complete kit for $700 that has EVERYTHING you need to replace all of your clutch components
My 2¢
AFJuvat