[KTL]

This is one of those subjects that often can create a debate.

Steering- nothing has threadlocker on my car. There are locations in the steering system that have mechanical locking like washers (steering rack housing bolts) and cotter pins (tie rod end joint pins) but no threadlocker. That said, I see nothing wrong with using blue threadlocker to avoid vibration loosening. Red is overkill only because it's a pain to get loose- have to heat it up. That said, steering system is very important just like the brakes.

Spark plugs: majority say DON'T use antiseize. I have never had a problem w/out antiseize on the aluminum alloy heads. Antiseize is risky on spark plugs because they are a fine thread and the antiseize presents a good opportunity to overtorque and damage the threads.

CV joint bolts are done dry. Just need to make sure the female threads are clean and dry.

Flywheel bolts are typically done dry. Later 9 bolt cranks are more reliable as far as bolt torque goes. Earlier 6 bolts had some problems. But even the later 9 bolts have had loosening problems on race engines.

Caliper bolts- I found them to have copper antiseize on them in a lot of cars.

Rear shock absorber/trailing arm bolts use antiseize. Normally i'd think this is a risk because the trailing arm is alumimum alloy and fine thread. Plus the torque spec is high- 92 ft-lb I believe.

Lots of information you read says DO NOT use antiseize on wheel stud threads. However lots of people in the Porsche community use it on the threads and also on the nut seat to avoid galling the lug bores in the Fuchs wheels. I've yet to see a broken M14 Porsche stud on account of using antiseize

Antiseize is recommended on the engine support bar M12 bolts because those suckers more often than not will rust into the bar end threads. When you try to break them loose with a breaker bar or impact wrench, often the bar end will twist off.