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RAF,
The advice on this BBS is pretty good. I'm going to disagree with Rollins this time, though. I'm 51. I started working on my first car and found something I enjoy, and made a living at for a while. I made alot of mistakes though. I still think that if you enjoy it, at least check the master and slave cylinders yourself. Buy a 944 Haynes Manual (everything isn't covered and the printing on wiring diagrams isn't the greatest) and a few wrenches. A Porsche is a little more involved than my first Chevy. Until 7 or 8 years ago my idea of state of the art engine management was a Holley double pumper and Mallory dual point. But, you teenagers nowadays are sharper than we were in some things. Work on your car and you'll pick up as you go.
Before getting under your 944 get some jackstands, so you won't have the car come off that little scissor jack on you.
You clutch master cylinder is between the brake the brake vacuum booster and drivers side fender, sitting a little lower than the brake master cylinder. The slave cylinder is on the bell housing by the starter. Be sure to take the ground cable (-) off the battery if you remove the starter. If not you could have a big spark from arcing the cable on the starter. On cars these days that might mess up a lot of electronic stuff.
First thing I would do is check the fluid level in the master cylinders resoivoir. If empty you could have air in the lines and fill and try bleeding. If OK then get under the car and pull that plastic peice out of the bell housing. This is an inspection cover for checking clutch wear from the fork position. The cylinder rod should be in the indention for it in the end of the fork. With the pedal up, have somebody mash the clutch. You should be able to see the cylinder rod move the fork. When they let off the pedal, the fork should come back and the pedal come up. Since this isn't happening loosen the cylinder from the bell housing about a 1/4" and see if the fork moves back. Might be a good idea to measure.If in doubt, take the cylinder all the way out. Press the rod against a solid surface and see if the pedal comes back. If it does not, put the cylinder back in. If it does the clutch disk is probably shot. Mash the pedal and see if the rod moves to the fork. If it doesn't pull the pedal up and over the bleed valve on the cylinder, mash the pedal again. Fluid should come out now when the pedal is mashed. If it does I'd say the slave cylinder is bad. Spend some money and get some tubing wrenches for the tubing. I,ve rounded off fittings with open ends. If no or little fluid comes out the master cylinder is bad.
After changing a cylinder, you need to bleed the air out. Make sure to keep fluid in the resoivoir. To bleed the master cylinder crack the fitting on the line to the slave cylinder and have somebody mash the pedal. Close the fitting before having them release the pedal. They may have to pull it up the first couple of times. Do it until there is steady fluid with no air. On a hydraulic clutch slow steady pedal action seems best. To bleed the slave cylinder go the same way opening and closing the bleed valve.
A slave cylinder runs about $40 to $50, master cylinder about $60 to $80. I'd use good fluid, Castrol GT or ATE. All in all you can probably get cylinder, fluid, & tools for about the same as towing and having somebody else do it. As for towing, when a 914 clutch cable broke on one of my kids, I cranked it in 2nd & drove home timing the red lights.
If the clutch disk is gone that is involved so you might want to consider having somedoy else do it. Be ready for $600 - $700 for just a disk. Get a spring center, (924 turbo) like others told you, it might be a little rougher on the torque tube, but it holds up better than the rubber.
It is a rough job, thats why a nice 944 needing a clutch can be bought for $2000 or less. If you tackle it, get a partner who has some auto experience, a manual and at least one weekend. You,ll need a floor jack, allen socket tools, metric sockets, ratchet, pull handle , extensions, swivel, a internal 12 point tool to fit the CVs & a torque wrench. You'll have to pull the flywheel sensors, torque tube - transmission coupling, some of the exhaust system, CV joints, shift linkange, transaxle, starter, slave cylinder, shift fork, torque tube, before you get to the clutch & pressure plate. Use lock tight on the pressure plate bolts and that little pointed on the trans linkage.
Let us know you come out.
drew1
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