Quote:
Originally Posted by DSPTurtle
Jim, I really would wait until you have the rods out. They will have a much larger tolerance for mismatch and by playing the Tetris game of mixing and matching you can get pretty darn close without firing up the die grinder. Or else you will have to once again break out the burr for the rods to keep your balances correct.
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I balanced all the piston and wrist pin assemblies today. Went slow and got them all the same weight. I didn't remove any metal from the pistons, I ground some metal off each end of the wrist pins by hand with a die grinder. I've seen it done like this before and it worked fine.
The numbers I wrote on the piston skirts is the piston weight with rings and no wrist pin. Some were turned so the numbers are on the other side.
When I balance the rods I won't use a die grinder anywhere on them. I take a 6" DA sander thats used for body work and lock down the pad so the dual action is disabled and it spins real fast like a disc grinder.
Then depending on how much metal I want to remove from the rod caps and up at the top of the small end radius I'll start with 80 grit sticky back sand paper, then 120, 220, 320, and end with 2000 grit to get a smooth polished finish with no stress risers.
I've done it before on BMW rods and they came out great. Balanced end for end.
I know all this balancing isn't needed but I like doing it, it gives me satisfaction, and the motor will run real smooth.
I want to have the rods resized and new wrist pin bushings installed before I balance them. Offset wristpin bushings for a small increase in compression would be nice.
