Quote:
Originally Posted by neilca
To add more damage to my wallet he said I had to replace, not flush, all of my oil lines. He has seen the metal bits imbed themselves into the rubber liner only to come loose later. Oil cooler replace. Oil tank complete disassembly. Clean, clean, clean.
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Neil,
Sorry to hear about your failure. I know the feeling. Been there done that on my last engine build. I quoted the above not to add insult to injury, but to reinforce the importance of cleaning everything. You can't risk an "encore presentation" like Steve often says. You have to clean absolutely everything. EVERYTHING.
Engine case needs nearly all the plugs pulled to get junk out of all the oil passage.
Factory oil tank can be ultrasonically done by aviation place like Pacific Oil Cooler or the like. Oil passages and the screen in the factory tank are big enough that ultrasonic will get it clean and it'll come back looking like new. I recall your oil tank is a Peterson style, so that should be easy peasy to clean yourself.
Oil cooler(s)? I wouldn't risk it. The passages in them are tight and I would think the potential for junk hiding in there is high and can dislodge in the future. Replacement coolers are expensive, sure. But a lot cheaper than another smoked engine.
Oil lines? Yep. Take all your braided stainless hose and junk it. At least you can reuse the fittings.
Crack open your thermostat(s) and clean those. I found all sorts of FOD in my factory '78 external t-stat that would just be waiting to trash my "new" engine.
Your oil pump may feel like its OK. I bet if you open it up, it'll look like this:
Engine Bearing Failure- Disassemble Heads Too?
Don't risk using that pump. I unfortunately think that 993 pump you have is another casualty. Retire it to the hall of shame.
Thoroughly clean the intermediate shaft inside.
Throw away your timing chains and look closely at the sprockets. The chains are junk IMO because bearing material gets embedded in the links & rollers and can flake off later on if re-used.
Take a look at the cam housings and make sure they're still OK. Bearing FOD can get up there and score the cam bearing bores and also plug the cam & rocker spray bar. You should remove the spray bar end plugs, pull out the tube (note orientation of tube) and thorougly clean the tube & larger oiling passages for the cam bearings.
Don't forget the cam housing oil feed lines that feed from the engine case to the banjo adapter. I would replace them to be honest, since there's a rubber section in them. Or have a hose shop crimp new rubber sections into them. Can also make them out of AN-4 hose & adapter fittings. But then you're just spending more money.....
Don't overlook anything that oil comes in contact with. The FOD gets everywhere.