[gliding_serpent]

1. The car has unknown mileage on it however I know the top end was refreshed about 30k miles ago. Is there anyway I can somehow assess the health of my motor (besides compression test and leakdown) before taking it on the track? I think I'm more concerned with rod bearing issues than anything. Just this year a local 996 turbo threw a rod at our track. Be ready to accept any fate and walk it off.

2. Should I be adding another oil cooler to the car prior to my first event? As is the car runs great on hot days in traffic. You will be fine. If it runs hot, run a few cool down laps and repeat. If that happens on anything other than the hottest days, then it is oil cooler time.

2. A one point trans syncros were changed but I still have a problem getting into first and sometimes downshifting from 5th to 4th. Besides either tweaking that should I be doing anything with the fluid? Do I need a cooler? I bought a transmission cooler knowing that I probably will not need it. Folks in the know say you need runs over 30min driving hard to even get the temp up to a point of needing one. I also bought a CMS fork cover for the transmission with the built in oil temp sensor. I then got a VDO temp gauge. I need to hook it up this winter. I will run with it, and if my temps get high enough, I will install my transmission cooler. I had the plumbing (return line) put in when I had my transmission rebuilt. Better not to need it, but be able to have it, than need it and not be able to have it without opening the transmission again.

3. The car has stock brakes, with upgraded pads and fluids are these sufficient for a novice on say Watkins Glen or VIR? I can not comment on those tracks, but I think you will be fine with pads/fluid. Lots of time to cool brakes on the longer tracks. IF you have issues, buy and install the plastic 993 brake cooling scoops. Cheap.

4. The suspension was rebuilt with ER stuff a while back by a previous owner. Besides looking for loose balljoints / tie rods is there anything else I should be checking for in the front end? Alignment. If the car is very low, a bump steer kit never hurts, but those tracks should be pretty smooth so it would be more for the road. Eventually install WEVO sway bar mounts... otherwise it is a matter of WHEN your oem ones crack

5. I'd like to get harnesses, is a bolt in 4 point cage/bar with harness attachment points sufficient? Or do I need to get something welded in? I would like to read opinions, but the bolt in route is where I eventually hope to go. Better than nothing, reversible. Ideal for dual purpose car. I run a harness bar which many say is a no-no (came with the car). I currently am focusing on the car in general, and new OEM seatbelts. I will worry about my harness later. Welded is the ideal obviously, but overkill in anything less than a track dedicated car IMHO.

6. Is there anything else I should be considering? I'm really intimidated by this car with all the talk about spin outs and expensive repairs. I know they can be capable in the right hands but I'm not sure i have those.I too was scared. But it is a puppy dog if you know what you are doing. Smoothness, consistency. Slowly build up your speed and confidence. Just don't suddenly change your mind mid turn. Check you ego at the door. In hind sight my biggest fear is a 30 year old car with some new reliable parts, but a few 30 year old parts. Make sure you have an easy release fire extinguisher on hand.

True story, the first time I took my 911 to the track was a week after I bought it. Never drove a 911 before. Ran great, except it kept having a mechanically stuck throttle after WOT runs.

These cars are tough as long as you don't do something silly like hit 2nd from 5th. Figure that out before you go. If you will be going over ~110mph you will need 5th.

Don't fear expensive repairs. Fear the money you will spend to make your car lighter/faster for the next season once you are even more hooked.